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Old 02-18-2008 | 06:02 PM
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Default AMP connectors

I am rebuilding an engine wiring harness. I cannnot figure out how to get the pins released from the Injector plugs. I have one of the AMP tools for removing the pins from other plugs, but there does not seem to be anyway to release the pins from the plastic body on the injector connectors.

There is a space between the connector and the pin, but when I use a small probe to release the pin lock it does not pull out of the body.

Also I am looking for the best source for replacement boots and connectors.

Thanks Much
Old 02-18-2008 | 06:53 PM
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I understand from JDSPorsche that Porsche usually 'stake' the pins into the connector, so you can't remove them in the way you describe which would be the conventional way of taking apart AMP connector.

If you're replacing the old injector plugs then I suppose you can take a more 'destructive' approach to taking out the connectors, unless I'm missing something obvious?
Old 02-18-2008 | 06:56 PM
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Here's a source for connecters I've used:
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...geitem=1&new=y

I would prefer to find a source that supplied bare connectors, these have a length of wire attatched. Please let me know if you find anything else.

IIRC the pins are held in by a tab like other connectors. They might just be tricky, try sticking your tounge out for extra precision On the ones I bought above I dissasembled them and soldered in my own wire so as not to have a frankenstein wiring harness with splices everywhere.
Old 02-18-2008 | 07:41 PM
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The connectors are AMP Junior Power Timer series connectors. Digikey and other electronic supply houses can probably supply bare connectors instead of the tailed versions usualy sold for auto use.
Old 02-18-2008 | 07:45 PM
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The Amp connectors supplied with the factory harness have a plastic plug that comes in from the side of the connector that needs to be punched out before the pins can be removed. All of the replacement Amp type connectors do not have this.

Simply find the two retangular indentations on the side of the connector and push your pin removal tool into those indentations until you feel the plastic plug inside "pop" , then you can remove the pins with the removal tool in the traditional way that it is done.
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Last edited by 928drvr86.5; 02-18-2008 at 10:58 PM.
Old 02-18-2008 | 07:48 PM
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Oh, and the connector bodies can still be used with these, "stakes" removed, Like i said the replacements i have seen don't have them anyway.
Old 02-18-2008 | 09:26 PM
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thats a nice bit of information
Old 02-18-2008 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Simard
Here's a source for connecters I've used:
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...geitem=1&new=y
$1.03 a piece? Wow - nice find!!
Old 02-18-2008 | 10:42 PM
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Ben:

That is news about popping the pins out that way. I've always been told the pins were not removable on the injector plugs and most of the other connectors. Does this technique apply to the MAF and other multi-pin connectors as well? Using the common AMP connector pin removal tool, I could not get the throttle switch plug pins out.

Mike:

That is a great price. Cheapest I've seen before was $2 on eBay.
Old 02-18-2008 | 10:53 PM
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Dang, wish I had known that before I "disassembled" mine. I just replaced everything with parts from Eagleday.
Old 02-18-2008 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Does this technique apply to the MAF and other multi-pin connectors as well?
Yes!

Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Using the common AMP connector pin removal tool, I could not get the throttle switch plug pins out.
Try what i have shown in the pictures, and then use the removal tool in the traditional way. The connector shown is the idle regulator 3-pin, the same connector as the T pos. connector.


As a side note.. the 25 pin Amp connectors (probably the 35 pin S4) for the Brains have two separate one-piece pin stakes, one for each side of the connector that does basically the same thing as these little plastic plugs on the 2,3, and 6 pin Amps. The pin "stakes" for the brain connectors are removeable and are a re-use item.
Old 02-18-2008 | 10:55 PM
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I used a dental style pick get under the clip very easy. I bought a set of pins with a tool to crimp them, pain to do and in the rear no room to do it correctly. I finally purchased the inj connector with pig tails gave me plenty of room to remove my fuel rail out of the way as I added my S/C.
Old 02-18-2008 | 11:56 PM
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Ben:

Thanks for the follow-up message about the multi-pin connectors. This is great news!
Old 02-19-2008 | 02:31 AM
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Thanks for all the quick and good advice.

After posting I went out and played around with the connectors a little more. After smashing a very old and rotted connector I found a tab on the metal piece that holds the pins in place. By using a thinn probe from the pin side of the connector I was able to bend the tab back and remove the pins. There is a small square just above the pins. Pushing the probe in the small square bent the tabs and allowed the pins to come out. It still took a bit of pulling to break loose the corrosion but they came apart.

I will try the side release method next time.

Does any one know of a chemical that will clean the pins up. They have some green corrosion. I know from silverware there is an effective dip. I used to work with microwave antenna feeds made of copper and we had a solution that brightened the copper, but that was a long time ago and I have no idea what the solution was.

Thanks again
Old 02-19-2008 | 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Podguy
I am rebuilding an engine wiring harness. I cannnot figure out how to get the pins released from the Injector plugs. I have one of the AMP tools for removing the pins from other plugs, but there does not seem to be anyway to release the pins from the plastic body on the injector connectors.

There is a space between the connector and the pin, but when I use a small probe to release the pin lock it does not pull out of the body.

Also I am looking for the best source for replacement boots and connectors.

Thanks Much
You could try here.
http://www.kayjayco.com/
He has really good wire too. I think a 928 owner as well.


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