AMP connectors
#16
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Thanks for all the quick and good advice.
Does any one know of a chemical that will clean the pins up. They have some green corrosion. I know from silverware there is an effective dip. I used to work with microwave antenna feeds made of copper and we had a solution that brightened the copper, but that was a long time ago and I have no idea what the solution was.
Thanks again
Does any one know of a chemical that will clean the pins up. They have some green corrosion. I know from silverware there is an effective dip. I used to work with microwave antenna feeds made of copper and we had a solution that brightened the copper, but that was a long time ago and I have no idea what the solution was.
Thanks again
Internet lore suggest that Ketchup is even better than vineger thank god I rarely eat it.
#17
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As a side note.. the 25 pin Amp connectors (probably the 35 pin S4) for the Brains have two separate one-piece pin stakes, one for each side of the connector that does basically the same thing as these little plastic plugs on the 2,3, and 6 pin Amps. The pin "stakes" for the brain connectors are removeable and are a re-use item.
As the insulation on the wires is usually embrittled with the heat I usually cut the old connector offf and use a new connector/pins.
I can confirm that the comb like stake for the 35 way connectors is the same as you found on the 25 way. They are off-white plastic, one each side, easily hooked out.
#18
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Not to be too much of a perfectionist but for the AMP ends I cannot find the different colors. The 78 harness has a brown, blue, lt gray and black connector. It would be nice to find these colors. Anyone have an idea?
As far as wire there is plenty of wire available. What would be a nice upgrade? And is it possible to find wire that matches the original colors with the correct stripes.
Thanks
As far as wire there is plenty of wire available. What would be a nice upgrade? And is it possible to find wire that matches the original colors with the correct stripes.
Thanks
#19
Three Wheelin'
Not to be too much of a perfectionist but for the AMP ends I cannot find the different colors. The 78 harness has a brown, blue, lt gray and black connector. It would be nice to find these colors. Anyone have an idea?
As far as wire there is plenty of wire available. What would be a nice upgrade? And is it possible to find wire that matches the original colors with the correct stripes.
Thanks
As far as wire there is plenty of wire available. What would be a nice upgrade? And is it possible to find wire that matches the original colors with the correct stripes.
Thanks
The original wire insulation is, I believe, PVC. It's junk. It doesn't take heat well and if crushed will give way and expose bare wires. Check out the wire from http://www.kayjayco.com/ I used the TXL type and even though it is the thinnest he has, it is tough and seems very durable. Many colors are available, but not in the color stripe type.
#20
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Eagleday.com has TXL wire in the correct DIN color coding. Make sure you tell them to measure lengths exactly, they sell by the meter ( 3.28 ft) and i had a few colors come up short of what i ordered. For example, i ordered 2 meters and they sent 1.8 meters and it happened on a few different wire colors. It's not a good thing when your wire comes up 200mm short of the sensor/connector. I think it's kinda BS selling it by the meter too, say for instance you need 4 feet, you end up buying 2 meters. That gets to be a waste of wire if you're ordering 20-some different colors/sizes. As far as i know ( and i have searched) Eagleday is the only place that offers DIN colored wires in less than bulk quantities. There are places you can get DIN wire at great prices but you have to order in 1000' reels.
#22
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The Amp connectors supplied with the factory harness have a plastic plug that comes in from the side of the connector that needs to be punched out before the pins can be removed. All of the replacement Amp type connectors do not have this.
Simply find the two retangular indentations on the side of the connector and push your pin removal tool into those indentations until you feel the plastic plug inside "pop" , then you can remove the pins with the removal tool in the traditional way that it is done.
Simply find the two retangular indentations on the side of the connector and push your pin removal tool into those indentations until you feel the plastic plug inside "pop" , then you can remove the pins with the removal tool in the traditional way that it is done.
#23
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If you have removed the metal retainer and they still refuse to separate then they are simply stuck and need more persuasion.
Try wiggling, twisting and pulling. Be careful, they break or crumble easily.
#24
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Since this thread was started I've rebuilt a few harnesses.
IMO just replacing the plastic is only half the job, need to replace the metal pins too. Just cleaning them up is not going to ensure they are still making good contact. The spring pressure wears out over time and best to crimp on new ends.
I also use the newer style connectors with weatherpac style seals, no need for a boot.
IMO just replacing the plastic is only half the job, need to replace the metal pins too. Just cleaning them up is not going to ensure they are still making good contact. The spring pressure wears out over time and best to crimp on new ends.
I also use the newer style connectors with weatherpac style seals, no need for a boot.
#25
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Since this thread was started I've rebuilt a few harnesses.
IMO just replacing the plastic is only half the job, need to replace the metal pins too. Just cleaning them up is not going to ensure they are still making good contact. The spring pressure wears out over time and best to crimp on new ends.
I also use the newer style connectors with weatherpac style seals, no need for a boot.
IMO just replacing the plastic is only half the job, need to replace the metal pins too. Just cleaning them up is not going to ensure they are still making good contact. The spring pressure wears out over time and best to crimp on new ends.
I also use the newer style connectors with weatherpac style seals, no need for a boot.
I plan to “re-wire” my 86.5 soon.
#26
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Roger sells them for a good price too.
You really need a good crimp tool to do the job right, I have this one for the non-weather pac style:
This one for the wather pac style:
Local guy used these for his engine:
I really like them, they are the "pull back" style and don't require the small rubber seals like the weatherpac's.
The only reason why I don't use them is I cannot find 3+ pin connectors in this style and I want them all to match.
#27
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I work in electronics and have access to all the proper crimpers and have sources for most connector parts. Problem is determining the correct pieces. Some connections warrant themselves to non OEM replacements and some don’t. Has anyone ever seen a cross reference from Porsche part to Tyco/Amp, etc.?
Last edited by depami; 05-05-2012 at 04:14 PM.
#28
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If that's the case, then it seems it's just easy to cut the wires just behind the connector since the terminals end is close to the connector end. Is that how you do it?
#29
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Thanks Hacker.
I work in electronics and have access to all the proper crimpers and have sources for most connector parts. Problem is determining the correct pieces. Some connections warrant themselves to non OEM replacements and some don’t. Has anyone ever seen a cross reference from Porsche part to Tyco/Amp, etc.?
I work in electronics and have access to all the proper crimpers and have sources for most connector parts. Problem is determining the correct pieces. Some connections warrant themselves to non OEM replacements and some don’t. Has anyone ever seen a cross reference from Porsche part to Tyco/Amp, etc.?
When I find that database I'll send it over.
I still pull out the metal tab since you will lose less wire that way.
I also make my own harness cover using this stuff and shrink tube:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/817/=helvat
I have a spool of every size.
I have enough materials to re-do 3-4 harnesses.
Next time I'm going to buy the sleeving that requires a hot knife to cut. This stuff I used is easier to cut but you have to seal the ends with something like shrink tubing or it will fray apart. Kind of annoying.
I used some military grade shrink tubing with a built in, heat activated seal. Overkill since the mesh sleeving isn't sealed....
Actually, my next harness will be for the track car and I plan to cover it with this:
http://www.designengineering.com/cat...eeve-tape-kits
#30
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Thanks, I'll give it a shot today.
I ordered some of this stuff: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...php#heatresist
I ordered some of this stuff: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...php#heatresist