Wiring work by PO - shoddy or okay?
#1
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The photo below shows a discovery while doing Wally's annual maintenance. Our 84 had a small rear section fire many years ago due to rats eating through the wiring insulation. (Yum)
I took a closer look at the wiring in the battery container and am now unsure about the integrity of the connections. There are four wire crimps that have been employed to bridge connections. I've undone one of these and noted that the wiring material does not match on the bridged ends (circled). Is this a problem?
I'm thinking I will take all of the crimps off and solder these connections.
Any other suggestions or caveats would be greatly appreciated. Also, if anyone knows what these wires are responsible for, I'd be grateful to know.
Thanks,
Tim
I took a closer look at the wiring in the battery container and am now unsure about the integrity of the connections. There are four wire crimps that have been employed to bridge connections. I've undone one of these and noted that the wiring material does not match on the bridged ends (circled). Is this a problem?
I'm thinking I will take all of the crimps off and solder these connections.
Any other suggestions or caveats would be greatly appreciated. Also, if anyone knows what these wires are responsible for, I'd be grateful to know.
Thanks,
Tim
#2
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the wires should actually have connectors that can be removed as the harness goes to the transaxle and thus if its ever removed the wires will need to be cut .
There is a chance that the harness was damaged due to the PO Mechanic not disconnecting the wires and possibly damaging the connector.
IIRC the wires dont match, so some different colored heat shrink and female /male bullet type connectors should have things in order. I believe the wires are for the speedo and the reverse lights
There is a chance that the harness was damaged due to the PO Mechanic not disconnecting the wires and possibly damaging the connector.
IIRC the wires dont match, so some different colored heat shrink and female /male bullet type connectors should have things in order. I believe the wires are for the speedo and the reverse lights
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Really good, tight flexible rubber-like automotive connectors are what I'm upgrading to in situations like that one, where disassembly should be anticipated as noted.
To splice wires, or splice-in connectors, I'm slipping a piece of thick clear shrink wrap onto one of the wires, then soldering using metal connectors as junctions. (The metal pieces buried inside the plastic crimp sleeves can work, or you can buy them without plastic). Sometimes I crimp the metal a litttle to hold during soldering, sometimes not. Then applying the shrink wrap.
This is the first car where I've taken the time to solder joints. Have had make a number of patches and wire replacements, with more coming. I like the reliablility and peace of mind knowing the wires won't get loose. We all know electrical problems on these cars can snowball fast. That's why you're in there right now, to inspect and head stuff off.
I started down the path of correct wire colors, Porsche/Bosch fittings, etc. No more. If it was a 95GTS, maybe.
To splice wires, or splice-in connectors, I'm slipping a piece of thick clear shrink wrap onto one of the wires, then soldering using metal connectors as junctions. (The metal pieces buried inside the plastic crimp sleeves can work, or you can buy them without plastic). Sometimes I crimp the metal a litttle to hold during soldering, sometimes not. Then applying the shrink wrap.
This is the first car where I've taken the time to solder joints. Have had make a number of patches and wire replacements, with more coming. I like the reliablility and peace of mind knowing the wires won't get loose. We all know electrical problems on these cars can snowball fast. That's why you're in there right now, to inspect and head stuff off.
I started down the path of correct wire colors, Porsche/Bosch fittings, etc. No more. If it was a 95GTS, maybe.
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Solder and shrink wrap. Forget connectors, they will be a possible point of failure. If you need to disassemble then you cut the shrink wrap and de-solder. It takes no time at all and you can have piece of mind that the little electrons will get to where they are needed, unimpeded.
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The best way is to solder, 2nd best is to use crimp type spade connectors, 3rd best is to twist them together and cover in electrical tape
just kidding about #3....Also, both wires are still copper, the "silver" looking one has a light coat of tin, very common to find in the electrical world.
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Hello Tim,
Just confirming Mrmerlin's wire ID. Yes, two of those wires are coming from the pulse sensor at the back of the differential (the green wire and the brown wire) and connect up to the two brown and red striped wires. The two brown and red striped wires end up at terminal T1 and T2 at the Central Electrics Board. The other 2 wires are for the back up light switch.
Just confirming Mrmerlin's wire ID. Yes, two of those wires are coming from the pulse sensor at the back of the differential (the green wire and the brown wire) and connect up to the two brown and red striped wires. The two brown and red striped wires end up at terminal T1 and T2 at the Central Electrics Board. The other 2 wires are for the back up light switch.
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Solder and shrink wrap. Forget connectors, they will be a possible point of failure. If you need to disassemble then you cut the shrink wrap and de-solder. It takes no time at all and you can have piece of mind that the little electrons will get to where they are needed, unimpeded.
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#8
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I had a day off today, so I decided to solder and shrink wrap these suckas. Thanks to everyone who chimed in here. No shortage of talent and thoughtfulness on this board.
Pax,
Tim
Pax,
Tim