Engine removal in progress S4, have a question...
#1
Burning Brakes
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Engine removal in progress S4, have a question...
I have just about everything undone and the engine is about ready to come out! I am pulling it to do a valve/head job, but while I am at it I am doing all the major renovations.
I was hoping to pull the engine with the manifold intact and once the engine was out do the manifold refurb (from the confort of a chair) , but I forgot about the connector from the idle speed control unit. Has anyone had any luck removing this with the manifold on.
I do not want to pull my harness thru the firewall at this point and maybe not at all! (the harness is completely free except this one connector)
I read pirtle's write up (very helpful) and he kinda says it can be done with the bosh "2 pin" connector removal? I have on order the bosh Tool 9226, but is this also for the "2 pin"?
Thanks for the help.
I was hoping to pull the engine with the manifold intact and once the engine was out do the manifold refurb (from the confort of a chair) , but I forgot about the connector from the idle speed control unit. Has anyone had any luck removing this with the manifold on.
I do not want to pull my harness thru the firewall at this point and maybe not at all! (the harness is completely free except this one connector)
I read pirtle's write up (very helpful) and he kinda says it can be done with the bosh "2 pin" connector removal? I have on order the bosh Tool 9226, but is this also for the "2 pin"?
Thanks for the help.
#2
Nordschleife Master
manifold has to come off to get access to the ISV (idle stabilizer valve)
I would suggest pulling the intake when removing the engine though. (done it twice) You can get the crane hook closer to the engine which for me was important as my cherry picker could only be raised so high. It turns out it just barely cleared without the intake. Had i had the intake on, i would have had to safely lower the engine back in the car then pull the intake apart then raise again.
you have to pull the manifold off anyway, may as well do it before pulling the engine. On a stand it maybe a little easier access wise, but pulling the manifold is not a painful process, just time consuming, but its still time consuming on a stand as well.
I would suggest pulling the intake when removing the engine though. (done it twice) You can get the crane hook closer to the engine which for me was important as my cherry picker could only be raised so high. It turns out it just barely cleared without the intake. Had i had the intake on, i would have had to safely lower the engine back in the car then pull the intake apart then raise again.
you have to pull the manifold off anyway, may as well do it before pulling the engine. On a stand it maybe a little easier access wise, but pulling the manifold is not a painful process, just time consuming, but its still time consuming on a stand as well.
#4
Nordschleife Master
as for the harness
if you pull the manifold, and the injectors, most the harness is disconnected, just leave the harness int he car. I did this the second time. The first time it was a bitch pulling it through the firewall, although reinstalling was quick because i had my uncle over to help feed it. But I was also replacing the original harness with a brand new one from the new engine so it had to be done anyway.
Leave the harness in, it is a pain in the ***. Oh but when you reinstall, dont forget the temp probes that go in cylinder 4 and 8 in the bottom of the head. I forgot about those and had an issue when i finally restarted the new engine it would idle for a 20-30 seconds then die. I plugged in the forgotten sensors and all was good.
HAVE FUN!
if you pull the manifold, and the injectors, most the harness is disconnected, just leave the harness int he car. I did this the second time. The first time it was a bitch pulling it through the firewall, although reinstalling was quick because i had my uncle over to help feed it. But I was also replacing the original harness with a brand new one from the new engine so it had to be done anyway.
Leave the harness in, it is a pain in the ***. Oh but when you reinstall, dont forget the temp probes that go in cylinder 4 and 8 in the bottom of the head. I forgot about those and had an issue when i finally restarted the new engine it would idle for a 20-30 seconds then die. I plugged in the forgotten sensors and all was good.
HAVE FUN!
#5
Reach inside the manifold, it is a slight pain the *** to get to, but you can disconnect it w/o pulling everything else off. Yes, the Bosch tool makes it easier, but you can do it either by moving it around or getting in there with a pick tool.........Dental pic is easiest.
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#9
Under the Lift
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After looking over all the harness clamps, some hard to get to, we decided to pull the harness with the motor. It was pretty easy - feed the connectors through the firewall one at a time as someone pulls from the other side.
#10
Nordschleife Master
if you have two people its not that difficult, but if your refreshing a motor and everything has to be disconnected anyway i say save the hassle.
I pulled the harness myself and it was miserable, when i had a friend help on the install it was a pita but only took a few minutes. Some things are easier to connect when the engine is on a stand but if your refreshing everything and every connector must come off anyway from my experience i would leave the harness in the car.
Whatever works for you though. I guess there is no wrong way to do this
I pulled the harness myself and it was miserable, when i had a friend help on the install it was a pita but only took a few minutes. Some things are easier to connect when the engine is on a stand but if your refreshing everything and every connector must come off anyway from my experience i would leave the harness in the car.
Whatever works for you though. I guess there is no wrong way to do this
#11
Burning Brakes
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Ryan,
I am refreshing everything and then some. I want it to be correct. But, since I was disconnecting everything in the engine bay, I didn't really want to disturb the connectors on the other side or stress my harness more that I already am. I am doing this solo (no help, except my wife in desprerate need). I will also check for the temp probes in the head, I don't remember disconnecting them today but I will double check. I do remember the one on the intake and in the coolant intake.Thanks.
Thanks everyone for the input. I am sure I will have other issues.
SeanR,
I have a dental pic. I will give it a shot tomorrow. Thanks
I am refreshing everything and then some. I want it to be correct. But, since I was disconnecting everything in the engine bay, I didn't really want to disturb the connectors on the other side or stress my harness more that I already am. I am doing this solo (no help, except my wife in desprerate need). I will also check for the temp probes in the head, I don't remember disconnecting them today but I will double check. I do remember the one on the intake and in the coolant intake.Thanks.
Thanks everyone for the input. I am sure I will have other issues.
SeanR,
I have a dental pic. I will give it a shot tomorrow. Thanks
#12
Nordschleife Master
Depending on your year you may not have them.
But the probes i am talking about are on the bottom of the 4 and 8 cylinder on the exhaust side. On the head you will see bungs (is this the correct description?) in all exhaust ports, they are filled with screw in plugs on cyl 1-3 and 5-7 but on 4 and 8 there is a type of temp probe which the wiring gets routed behing the head in between the head and firewall. If your looking you will see them.
But the probes i am talking about are on the bottom of the 4 and 8 cylinder on the exhaust side. On the head you will see bungs (is this the correct description?) in all exhaust ports, they are filled with screw in plugs on cyl 1-3 and 5-7 but on 4 and 8 there is a type of temp probe which the wiring gets routed behing the head in between the head and firewall. If your looking you will see them.
#13
Nordschleife Master
hmm, I have done it everytime by myself.
I honestly dont find it that difficult, though you do have to go from the engine bay to the interior a few times.
I honestly dont find it that difficult, though you do have to go from the engine bay to the interior a few times.
#14
Nordschleife Master
you know what, it may not be as big a deal
I honestly can really test my patience on this car. That is evidence by the fact that ive been back from Europe for 2 months now and my car is still on Jack stands and all that was needed was to reinstall the flywheel and clutch. I have since done a bunch of other things but i get frusterated and dont touch it for days at a time.
If your anything like me, i would say stay away from pulling the harness. If you have patience then pull the harness as the WSM suggests. I do still think if you have to disconnect it anyway do it while its still in the car. Then you dont even have to touch the CES panel and the only think in the general area you may touch is the O2 sensor if you decide to replace that.
I honestly can really test my patience on this car. That is evidence by the fact that ive been back from Europe for 2 months now and my car is still on Jack stands and all that was needed was to reinstall the flywheel and clutch. I have since done a bunch of other things but i get frusterated and dont touch it for days at a time.
If your anything like me, i would say stay away from pulling the harness. If you have patience then pull the harness as the WSM suggests. I do still think if you have to disconnect it anyway do it while its still in the car. Then you dont even have to touch the CES panel and the only think in the general area you may touch is the O2 sensor if you decide to replace that.
#15
Burning Brakes
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Got the idle connector disconnected by using a dental pick from the rear of the intake and a small long screwdriver thru the small hole in top of the intake. I was able to see what I was doing thru the hole with light from the back. It only took about 5 min.
Thanks for everyones input.
Thanks for everyones input.