My '86.5 with X-pipe, no cats, hot dyno day, stock EZ-F chip +5°/WOT disco'd versus clone EZ-F chip, both with stock LH chip, best runs of each.

The stock EZ-F chip pulls roughly another 10+rwhp less than with the clone.

Note how much smoother the curves are, especially torque, using the cruise map versus the WOT map. The cruise map is indexed by rpm and intake vacuum, whereas the WOT map is only rpm based, in chunky ~500rpm steps, interpolated in between.

 

Hi Ken, and many thanks for posting this, I tried your Temp 1 sensor mod using the 5k ohm load, and I swear it is making a diff, pulls strong(er) from ~3k to 6500.

This season for whatever reason the car just did not seem as (bright) strong and for all I know the Temp 1 may not have been connected well (or the sensor is bad).

Here is a Pic of how I did it using a pair of 2.5 k’s and Hot Glue and I can reverse this if/when I want.

Thanks again,
Dave K9

 

Hey Ken this idea is great Dave was telling me about it and I tried it to. I put a 5k in the temp 1 and a 5k in the temp 2 it runs a hole lot smoother and has great acceleration. I am really happy with it
I did not do anything with the WOT wire

Thanks for the tip, I'm glad I have Dave to actually decipher what you did for my simple mind

 

Where is that thread Normy started about previous owners who cut corners by putting resistors in temp senders?

 

I think a little was lost in translation...

The air/Temp I sensor is a single sensor, so one wire is ground. The coolant/Temp 2 sensor is two sensors in one, one for the LH, and one for the EZ-F. Each terminal grounds to the engine block. I'm not sure what happens if you connect them?

Just adding 5 or 20K to the EZ-F Temp 2 input will improve the idle and midrange, but without disconnecting the WOT input, the WOT advance will be stock.

 

Any update on when your EZ-F'r chip will be available?

 

I have a new burner, and a stack of (NOS '87! ) 2732 chips, but I'm not ready yet to burn them.

I want to see if the intake spacers I've ordered will keep the intake/MAF temps down.

I also want to either make an extension for the air temp sensor, to put it in ambient air, and/or have a switch to select the max advance, to go along with the chip.

 

I have a newly installed eBay chip, can I use any of the EZ-F'r mods with it or is it already pushing the envelope?

 

I can't remember if it pings if you just (disconnect the WOT wire) with the eBay chip. Easy enough to try.

You can't add advance with the Temp2 resistors, because the cruise map is already advance ~3°.

 

PorKen, do you still use the rear H-pipe?

/Tobias

 

Yeah I've already tried it, it pulls very well off the line but pings under highway loads. Bill set the cam timing at +1/-1 and it's definitely sluggish with WOT connected, perhaps we should dial in a bit more advance?

 

Matt you must of missed the part about the TempII, that mod works when (or in conjunction with) the WOT is disconected and that is why I did not do it, as I did not want to modify my computer connections also I have the Factory AA chips (not clones) and do not want to risk over advancing my ignition timing.

The TempI mod just keeps the computer from taking away ~3 deg. under two conditions load and at WOT when the air box >122 deg., which I think is most of the time once warmed up, unless you are moving on a cool day.

At least that is how I read PorKen's thread.
Oh and after driving it a few more times, it does make it quicker when hot, and hot (water temp up to nom and oil at 2 to 2.5 bar at idle) is the only time I push it all the way.

Thanks again Ken!

 

As usual I guess I have no idea what the hell I'm doing but the car runs and idles better.
Is there any long term damage that I could do having it like this?
I am not getting any type of knock.
I have another car down and don't have time to screw with it if it's not going to hurt anything.

 

I dunno. It could be that both the EZ-F and LH are seeing 5K. If so, then the EZ-F is advancing 3° at idle and cruise, and the LH is richening the mixture by some percentage (this will only be evident at WOT because of the O2 sensor loop), good for torque, maybe not as good for horsepower.

 

Thanks Ken I think I can live with that for now, at least until I can do it the right way