Tweaking EZ-F, part third
02-14-2008, 01:47 PM
#16
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3mm neoprene. Boom. Done. Nice cool airbox, even after extended idling.
No knock light with full throttle launch from a long stop light.
02-14-2008, 02:04 PM
#17
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Hi Ken
The Euro 16v is pretty smart off the line, once you have addressed any possible causes of a lean out when the throttle is opened. On my car this required a rebuilt MAF and also the injectors ultrasonically cleaned. Both items made a significant improvement on their own.
...
The Euro 16v is pretty smart off the line, once you have addressed any possible causes of a lean out when the throttle is opened. On my car this required a rebuilt MAF and also the injectors ultrasonically cleaned. Both items made a significant improvement on their own.
...
Great dialog.
02-14-2008, 03:24 PM
#18
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02-15-2008, 09:57 PM
#20
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Here's another variable. 
I showed some knock on the freeway at 70+, and flooring it. It may be mechanical noise because my KnockLite is set at full sensitivity, or it may be a different environment at speed? (Must be the ram effect with the fancy cover...
) Anyhu, I thought of another input.
...
Using the disconnected WOT wire, which goes to ground at WOT (actually 2/3rds travel), and connecting it to the TempII input, either directly, or with a smaller K resistor, creates a two step WOT retard (less advance). The circuit follows the least resistance, so, for example, 5K to the WOT ground trumps the fixed 20K to ground.
Open or ground for the TempII input = 0.5° advance. I'll call it 0 for clarity.
Idle, cruise low load + / cruise high load + | WOT cruise low load + / WOT cruise high load +
Example: 5/5|0/0
WOT, pin 17, disconnected
TempI, pin 10 - 5K - pin 22 (or use sensor)
TempII, pin 23 - 20K - ground
WOT wire - pin 23
Example: 5/2|3/0
WOT, pin 17, disconnected
TempI, pin 10 - pin 22 (octane loop)
TempII, pin 23 - 20K - ground
WOT wire - 5K - pin 23
Example: 3/0|0/-3
WOT, pin 17, disconnected
TempI, pin 10 - pin 22 (octane loop)
TempII, pin 23 - 5K - ground
WOT wire - pin 23
I showed some knock on the freeway at 70+, and flooring it. It may be mechanical noise because my KnockLite is set at full sensitivity, or it may be a different environment at speed? (Must be the ram effect with the fancy cover...
) Anyhu, I thought of another input....
Using the disconnected WOT wire, which goes to ground at WOT (actually 2/3rds travel), and connecting it to the TempII input, either directly, or with a smaller K resistor, creates a two step WOT retard (less advance). The circuit follows the least resistance, so, for example, 5K to the WOT ground trumps the fixed 20K to ground.
Open or ground for the TempII input = 0.5° advance. I'll call it 0 for clarity.
Idle, cruise low load + / cruise high load + | WOT cruise low load + / WOT cruise high load +
Example: 5/5|0/0
WOT, pin 17, disconnected
TempI, pin 10 - 5K - pin 22 (or use sensor)
TempII, pin 23 - 20K - ground
WOT wire - pin 23
Example: 5/2|3/0
WOT, pin 17, disconnected
TempI, pin 10 - pin 22 (octane loop)
TempII, pin 23 - 20K - ground
WOT wire - 5K - pin 23
Example: 3/0|0/-3
WOT, pin 17, disconnected
TempI, pin 10 - pin 22 (octane loop)
TempII, pin 23 - 5K - ground
WOT wire - pin 23
Last edited by PorKen; 02-16-2008 at 03:01 PM.
02-15-2008, 10:49 PM
#21
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Your starting to confuse me Ken... But I'm sure there will be a time in the near future when I'm going to want to understand all this...and apply it to my 928s...so keep up the good work!! 
02-15-2008, 11:23 PM
#22
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Shane - pay no attention, your SharkTuner will make this much simpler.
...
I found some interesting tidbits doing a web search today.
If you look at the blueing on the spark plug electrode, where the metal has been heat treated by the combustion, it can tell you if the engine can take more or less advance. (Here.) (And here.)
Using projected nose plugs (stock 928 plugs are projected) is like adding 2° advance over 'regular' plugs. Or, put another way, using non-projected plugs require more advance, which is not necessarily good. You want the most power from the least advance.
...
I found some interesting tidbits doing a web search today.
If you look at the blueing on the spark plug electrode, where the metal has been heat treated by the combustion, it can tell you if the engine can take more or less advance. (Here.) (And here.)
Using projected nose plugs (stock 928 plugs are projected) is like adding 2° advance over 'regular' plugs. Or, put another way, using non-projected plugs require more advance, which is not necessarily good. You want the most power from the least advance.
Last edited by PorKen; 02-16-2008 at 12:36 PM.
02-15-2008, 11:37 PM
#24
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The fuel maps work like that, but the ignition WOT map is RPM only.
Oddly, the stock WOT map has some dips in advance, which show up on the dynograph. When you smooth out the curve, the graph becomes smoother, and power goes up.
Oddly, the stock WOT map has some dips in advance, which show up on the dynograph. When you smooth out the curve, the graph becomes smoother, and power goes up.
02-16-2008, 08:32 PM
#25
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Oooo... that worked well. 5/2|3/0.
First thing, on the way to the post office with a pair of LiftBars (50lbs), a motorcycle (fairly large, but not a sportbike) pulls up next to me at the light. He went for it, so I let him get a few feet out, then I reeled him back in and passed. There was a gentle curve a few hundred feet out, when second hit, and I pretty much drifted around the curve, still accelerating with the wheels slipping.
On the freeway to Keith's, up a hill, I tried full throttle accelerating, and got an amber, so I dialed back the KnockLite to the second sensitivity level (of 10), and haven't had a light since.
First thing, on the way to the post office with a pair of LiftBars (50lbs), a motorcycle (fairly large, but not a sportbike) pulls up next to me at the light. He went for it, so I let him get a few feet out, then I reeled him back in and passed. There was a gentle curve a few hundred feet out, when second hit, and I pretty much drifted around the curve, still accelerating with the wheels slipping.
On the freeway to Keith's, up a hill, I tried full throttle accelerating, and got an amber, so I dialed back the KnockLite to the second sensitivity level (of 10), and haven't had a light since.
02-17-2008, 12:13 PM
#27
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John,
Stock chip.
The ST EZF chip we made only changed the WOT map, and raised the idle advance slightly. We didn't have time to work on the cruise map. It was made before I had the KnockLite, too.
I made a new widget that seems to improve the airflow through the elbow between the MAF and the throttle body and I was getting a red knock light at high rpm WOT, so I went back to the stock chip.
Once it thaws out at Louies, I'll have a better idea, now, where to start SharkTuning the cruise map.
Stock chip.
The ST EZF chip we made only changed the WOT map, and raised the idle advance slightly. We didn't have time to work on the cruise map. It was made before I had the KnockLite, too.
I made a new widget that seems to improve the airflow through the elbow between the MAF and the throttle body and I was getting a red knock light at high rpm WOT, so I went back to the stock chip.
Once it thaws out at Louies, I'll have a better idea, now, where to start SharkTuning the cruise map.
02-17-2008, 02:03 PM
#28
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John,
I made a new widget that seems to improve the airflow through the elbow between the MAF and the throttle body and I was getting a red knock light at high rpm WOT, so I went back to the stock chip.
Once it thaws out at Louies, I'll have a better idea, now, where to start SharkTuning the cruise map.
I made a new widget that seems to improve the airflow through the elbow between the MAF and the throttle body and I was getting a red knock light at high rpm WOT, so I went back to the stock chip.
Once it thaws out at Louies, I'll have a better idea, now, where to start SharkTuning the cruise map.
02-17-2008, 03:38 PM
#29
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I haven't dyno'ed with/without it, yet, so I haven't 'mentioned' it. I thought it might improve the top end, but it feels like it gives a boost to part throttle, too, which is cool. It's difficult to quantify, because my 86.5 is already so amp'ed up.
I think it will make a noticeable difference on my '81, because the L-Jet elbows/throttle bodies are so small, but I have to have a smaller version laser cut for it.
In theory, it separates the flow through the elbow, keeping the airspeed up, and reducing the turbulence at the sharp bend, for more airflow. I imagine it simulates having a larger throttle body.
AFAIK, the US and euro LH2.2 elbows have basically the same ID, so it should fit your euro?
h/t Shane for the loan of his spare elbow/TB
(Edit: This didn't help. Dyno showed no gain.)
I think it will make a noticeable difference on my '81, because the L-Jet elbows/throttle bodies are so small, but I have to have a smaller version laser cut for it.
In theory, it separates the flow through the elbow, keeping the airspeed up, and reducing the turbulence at the sharp bend, for more airflow. I imagine it simulates having a larger throttle body.
AFAIK, the US and euro LH2.2 elbows have basically the same ID, so it should fit your euro?
h/t Shane for the loan of his spare elbow/TB
(Edit: This didn't help. Dyno showed no gain.)
Last edited by PorKen; 08-27-2008 at 02:00 AM.
02-17-2008, 04:24 PM
#30
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Hmm, it would be interesting to see the MAF voltage readings with/without "widget" at various load/rpm settings.
The engine may feel stronger due to a change in the MAF voltage, giving a more suitable mixture.
The cars were originally mapped with the stock system - warts and all :-)
The engine may feel stronger due to a change in the MAF voltage, giving a more suitable mixture.
The cars were originally mapped with the stock system - warts and all :-)