Interior door panels warped, any suggestions?
#1
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Hi all
The interior door panels on my 84 S2 are slightly warped, from the sunlight I guess, its only a problem at the top edge. You can see under the edge of the panel from outside as there are raised slightly. Does anybody know of any cheap fixes? I would like to buy some new (good used) ones but just can't afford to them at the moment.
Any help greatly appreciatted.
Mike
The interior door panels on my 84 S2 are slightly warped, from the sunlight I guess, its only a problem at the top edge. You can see under the edge of the panel from outside as there are raised slightly. Does anybody know of any cheap fixes? I would like to buy some new (good used) ones but just can't afford to them at the moment.
Any help greatly appreciatted.
Mike
#2
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I repaired mine and they are like new. Check out post no. 9 on this thread.https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...r+panel+repair
I haven't taken photos, but it is really straight forward and works great.
Rod
I haven't taken photos, but it is really straight forward and works great.
Rod
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Cheers Rob thats great, I tried a search but couldn't find anything. Where exactly did you cut with the dremel? Did you just cut part way through the hardboard?
Mike
Mike
#5
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As I indicated I did them both, and didn't get it quite right, the first time, but if that's the case, you can just remove them and recut a couple of places where you want it to bend more and refiberglas it and you're done. It's hard to do something wrong except perhaps to cut through the board and damage your covering, but I think you would notice what's happening.
You can cut the lines, parallel to the top edge right at the bend and test it for flexibility. When it bend easily, and won't spring back due to the force on the remaining hardboard, you can clamp it in place and do the glas work.
I'm sorry I didn't take photos, I got in a hurry and just overlooked it. Once you get started, I think it will be obvious and even I was able to do it.
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Rod
Last edited by Rod Underwood; 01-29-2008 at 07:03 PM.
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That is good stuff!! Mine does the same, 'cept it has a small tear and (oddly enough) looks burned a little. That is a perfect procedure to rebuild the panel, but doesn't address the blemish. Do any of you have any experience with those vinyl repair kits, or a better idea?
#7
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![](https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlist.com-vbulletin/520x658/interior_panel_mounting_screw_7bd5502e378fee5ff0fa9d62a1d70e92debee700.jpg)
Anyone have any suggestions on how to repair the particle board where a mounting clip was once glued onto?
I could try gluing in another mounting clip but my fear is the surrounding particle board will just crumble again.
My other thought is there is that i'd glue some sort of sheet/fabric that would assume the divot/rounded shape of the underlying particle board area and then use particle board or wood glue to re-glue the replacement mounting clip onto that sheet?
I found some neoprene rubber fabric but am wondering if there is something better for particle board?
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#8
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to fix the particle board get a few 2 oz bottles of instant crazy glue,
thin and medium thickness,
remove the carpet and foam and then use the thin glue to squirt around the clip hole,
do as much of the areas that are damaged from water.
this will run into the board fibers and begin setting up, so work outside as it will begin smoking.
once the glue has cured, the board will be stiff and its easy to install a new clip.
NOTE if the board needs more strength switch to the thicker glue,
this will fill in some of the porous areas .
NOTE use some baking soda to add some thickness if necessary sprinkle the powder then add the glue it will for a new hard surface.
thin and medium thickness,
remove the carpet and foam and then use the thin glue to squirt around the clip hole,
do as much of the areas that are damaged from water.
this will run into the board fibers and begin setting up, so work outside as it will begin smoking.
once the glue has cured, the board will be stiff and its easy to install a new clip.
NOTE if the board needs more strength switch to the thicker glue,
this will fill in some of the porous areas .
NOTE use some baking soda to add some thickness if necessary sprinkle the powder then add the glue it will for a new hard surface.
#9
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Did this recently and turned out perfect. My top edge was warped up the same way leaving a gap visible from out side glass. Panel removed, pull leather off of back edge only so you can work, don't pull leather off of front exposed area. Take a angle grinder with a wafer thin metal cut off wheel and your gonna slice a long groove into the particle wood without penetrating leather on other side. Be careful and precise. Now you can freely move warped edge back where it needs to be, if not, slice another groove parallel to the first. Take a 1X2 piece of wood and clamp to the face of top edge against the leather and secure this in place where you want the leather edge by whatever means necessary, tape clamps etc...Mix up 2-part epoxy, (gray or black) with small brush fill your grooves, this will take maybe 2 applications, don't be sloppy, keep it smooth. Let it set up then re-glue your leather to back side,
#10
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Did mine a couple of months ago without any cutting. Made a wooden frame that forced the top of the door card to 90 degrees and then applied glass fibre and resin which has worked and no gaps visible anymore.