heinrich

No need to pull the drains, unless you're changing coolant. Mike is right I was thinking your car looks awesome ... almost new in fact.

StratfordShark

I asked a couple of days ago whether you had to drain rad, block or both to do this job.

Was advised that if you remove top hose from radiator and catch what comes out that will drain enough water out of the bridge to let you take it off.

When I changed my t-stat and seal I drained the rad first, and remember that you could see the water below the o-ring of the bridge but there was no water in the bridge itself, certainly not enough to drain out of the t-stat elbow.

I'm in the middle of intake job so don't want to risk any coolant getting in the oil filler or the front cylinders. If anyone thinks it's not safe to just drain via the top hose then I'll drain the whole rad.

Dwayne

I edited the post/procedure for leaving the crossbrace attached until after the car is lifted and supported on jackstands and added re-attaching the crossbrace before lowering the car. I believe this is a better procedure/order. THANKS for the comments/recommendations!!!

borland

Congrats on the new addition.

I could add, that you should have coated the coolant o-rings with a liberal amount of silicone grease for assembly.

This is a normal part of the top end refresh which you'll like need to perform regardless of milage. Removing the intake is quite easy.

davek9

I can not get a straight enought shot w/the rear driver side allen (it won't go in deep enought), I'll have to stop by Harbor Frieght or Sears in the AM and pick up a set of the Allen's w/the ball end that work on an angle.

thanks guys.. and this is a gret write up Dwayne.

worf928

If you're going to do the crossover with the intake in place, I suggest protecting the intake with some painters tape where the two rear bolts will come up and out of the crossover. You risk damaging the coating with the wrench otherwise. This is especially the case if the intake has a lot of miles on it and the coating is starting to go already.

Richard S

I used a 6mm allen that I cut to a workable length. I put a 6mm closed-end wrench on the allen, then set the allen in place. Make sure you seat it properly so it doesn't strip the bolt.

Rich

linderpat

Excellent write up Dwayne - my only comment is that my understanding is that the cross brace should always be removed before lifting the car, and replaced after the car is put back down (when the intent is to remove it to work on the car - leave on if it isn't in the way). There has been lots written about this in other threads, and I beleive the WSM confirms this procedure as well.

Landseer

Dwayne, do you write technical articles for a living? You could.

Big Dave

Excellent tutorial. You really ought to start compiling stuff like this on a personal page using the free space that comes with your Rennlist membership!