Re-Paint Dilemma: What would you do? (LONG)
01-29-2008, 02:38 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
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If Brian can give you a reasonable price it might be worth the drive.
Here is a link to my Paint Page it should answer most of your questions about paint.
http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/te.../body_work.htm
There are theee things here worth considering
1. Changing the color will reduce the future sale price. Anyone pulling a cert of auth will see the original color and discount the car based on that - especially as these cars move into the collector realm.
2. The only way to get a first class job is to strip the paint. The aliminum and plastic panels are a must for stripping. The steel body if it is original - maybe you can get away with just sanding. The problem with the Porsche Paint - which by the way is not so great - is the two part process with a clear coat. German clear coats in the 1980s were not very good. Technology has come a long way since 1988 - especially with clear costs. Almost any top quality product will be superior to what is on the car. The older clear coat my look good to you - again especially on the steel portion of the body - but it is porous and cracked. After a repaint it will continue to deteriorate and eventually bubble and ruin the new paint.
3. Removing the body panels is a must for a professional job. I tear my cars down completely, remove most parts, clean everything and then build the car back up from there. Patching the old paint job is possible. The bumpers, mirrors and hood can be stirpped and repainted. The top of the fenders can be sanded, along with the roof and other rough spots, blended and then re-cleared. You will get a good job this way, but I have found the time required is almost as much as if I went the whole way. There is nothing that will show up a previously missed door ding, scratch or dull paint like new shiny paint next to it.
Lets be realistic. The car has 200K miles. There are a lot of 88s available. The chances of the car gaining collector value is slim unless it is the last 88 standing. There will always be the few original cars around that a collector has mantained and babied. These will sell for high prices while attempting to enter that class with a 200K redo is tough. What will happen in the future is buyers will be more concerned with condition over much else. Can you imagine a 356 or older 911 buyer passing up a car because it was in very nice condition but had been repainted.
This is your car and what you end up with after the work you will not be able to duplicate for the cost of repairs. Besides when done you will know the work was done right. If it was my car I would paint it the color you like and not look back.
Here is a link to my Paint Page it should answer most of your questions about paint.
http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/te.../body_work.htm
There are theee things here worth considering
1. Changing the color will reduce the future sale price. Anyone pulling a cert of auth will see the original color and discount the car based on that - especially as these cars move into the collector realm.
2. The only way to get a first class job is to strip the paint. The aliminum and plastic panels are a must for stripping. The steel body if it is original - maybe you can get away with just sanding. The problem with the Porsche Paint - which by the way is not so great - is the two part process with a clear coat. German clear coats in the 1980s were not very good. Technology has come a long way since 1988 - especially with clear costs. Almost any top quality product will be superior to what is on the car. The older clear coat my look good to you - again especially on the steel portion of the body - but it is porous and cracked. After a repaint it will continue to deteriorate and eventually bubble and ruin the new paint.
3. Removing the body panels is a must for a professional job. I tear my cars down completely, remove most parts, clean everything and then build the car back up from there. Patching the old paint job is possible. The bumpers, mirrors and hood can be stirpped and repainted. The top of the fenders can be sanded, along with the roof and other rough spots, blended and then re-cleared. You will get a good job this way, but I have found the time required is almost as much as if I went the whole way. There is nothing that will show up a previously missed door ding, scratch or dull paint like new shiny paint next to it.
Lets be realistic. The car has 200K miles. There are a lot of 88s available. The chances of the car gaining collector value is slim unless it is the last 88 standing. There will always be the few original cars around that a collector has mantained and babied. These will sell for high prices while attempting to enter that class with a 200K redo is tough. What will happen in the future is buyers will be more concerned with condition over much else. Can you imagine a 356 or older 911 buyer passing up a car because it was in very nice condition but had been repainted.
This is your car and what you end up with after the work you will not be able to duplicate for the cost of repairs. Besides when done you will know the work was done right. If it was my car I would paint it the color you like and not look back.
01-29-2008, 02:58 AM
#17
Burning Brakes
01-29-2008, 11:52 AM
#18
Drifting
Hmmm. Interesting topic
I had my car sold until the guy went thru the photos again and noticed that the paint job on my car is not the original color. My repaint was a pro job (doors panels off, windows removed, hood removed etc)but after 7 years issues are cropping up. The only thing not painted was the engine bay and the trunk area under the carpets. The cost of the job was about $4000 in 2000. The pointential buyer didnt want to spend the money to repaint, even though i was practically giving my car away at $4550. (I still am BTW - first $4500 cash takes it).
Honestly if i felt like i would rather track and or drive this car than my motorcycle, I would strip it out and keep it for track days.
I had my car sold until the guy went thru the photos again and noticed that the paint job on my car is not the original color. My repaint was a pro job (doors panels off, windows removed, hood removed etc)but after 7 years issues are cropping up. The only thing not painted was the engine bay and the trunk area under the carpets. The cost of the job was about $4000 in 2000. The pointential buyer didnt want to spend the money to repaint, even though i was practically giving my car away at $4550. (I still am BTW - first $4500 cash takes it).
Honestly if i felt like i would rather track and or drive this car than my motorcycle, I would strip it out and keep it for track days.
01-29-2008, 11:56 AM
#19
928 Collector
Rennlist Member
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I still have a perfect 89 S4 body here with perfect paint .... no repaint needed. Just put your engine and interior and transmission into it and drive off.
01-29-2008, 01:49 PM
#20
Addict
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Thread Starter
H2
Before ponying up the large $$$$ for a repaint....find a top notch PRO detailer who really understands how to use a high speed rotary polisher & wet sanding techniques.....you will be amazed at what a skilled detailer can do to the paint on our 928's.....granted the single stage paints are harder and more durable than the clear coated 928's (due to the softer clear coat)........even if it takes the detailer a long time to do...even $400 is money well spent, compared to a repaint! The bummer is it will be difficult to find a good detailer in your neck of the woods.....maybe start at your local highest end dealer you can find (Porsche or Mercedes, but Ferrari or Lambo is best) and ask them....be wary of their local minimum wage ham fisted guy....you want someone who runs their own business and the dealer pays them to fix things the ham fisted guy messed up!
Before ponying up the large $$$$ for a repaint....find a top notch PRO detailer who really understands how to use a high speed rotary polisher & wet sanding techniques.....you will be amazed at what a skilled detailer can do to the paint on our 928's.....granted the single stage paints are harder and more durable than the clear coated 928's (due to the softer clear coat)........even if it takes the detailer a long time to do...even $400 is money well spent, compared to a repaint! The bummer is it will be difficult to find a good detailer in your neck of the woods.....maybe start at your local highest end dealer you can find (Porsche or Mercedes, but Ferrari or Lambo is best) and ask them....be wary of their local minimum wage ham fisted guy....you want someone who runs their own business and the dealer pays them to fix things the ham fisted guy messed up!
You (and everyone else) convinced me to go this route. Nearest competent person capable of doing this is probably 100 miles away. Project for when the snow and salt wears off the roads....
H2
01-29-2008, 06:37 PM
#21
Drifting
I definitely agree that you should either call a detailer to come over with a buffer, or get one yourself and learn. It's not as hard as people think. It's cheaper and less time consuming then a respray. And to do this first is actually in accordance with how you should deal with paint issues in the first place. You always try to correct them in the least invasive way.
But when your paint gets beyond that point, a respray may be the only effective corrective measure. In terms of durability and chip resistance it may not be as good as the factory. But even Maaco is better then factory paint where the clear has failed and started to delaminate.
Can a body shop do as good of a job as the factory. In terms of getting a mirror-like finish, a body shop can usually exceed the factory quality. A body shop can go above and beyond the factory in terms of getting the panels straight and smooth before painting. The factory beats the shop in terms of durability and chip resistance. This is because the factory process is a hybrid between painting and powder coating. The initial primers used by the factory are applied in a similar manner as a powder coating gun where an electric charge is put through the material as it passes through the nozzle. Then the static electricity does something and makes the stuff stick to the panels. Then of course it goes into an oven for a force cure with very high heat. It comes out, cools, base/clear are applied and it goes back in to be cured at temps much higher then the local body shop can produce. Unless you completely strip a car to a bare steel shell, have the guns that apply an electric charge, and have an oven that can hold a car body and heat up to over 300 degrees then there will be some things you cannot replicate from the factory. We have other chemicals that compensate, and they work well, but nothing will be as good as the factory in certain regards.
I can understand why people are weary of resprays. You don't know what the quality is like. You don't know what's under the new paint. That's certainly reasonable. This is where documentation comes in handy.
Color changes aren't very popular for a good reason. Most color changes look really bad and out of place. People do color changes like they audition for American Idol. A lot of people screw up on American Idol because they go to the audition and sing their FAVORITE song, when they should take the time and sing a song that is compatible with their voice. Many people paint their cars in their favorite color without ever considering how that color may look on the car. Many times the end result just looks cheap and bad. Color is a marketing tool on cars just like the model designation. A lot of time and money is spent on consultants who spend a lot of time researching what is appealing. Each color is chosen only after a great deal of work. Of course you can hire a color consultant to help you choose the ideal color, but that will cost you dearly. My recommended course of action for people who feel that a color change is necessary is to look at the colors available for the years immediately surrounding the year your car was made and to stick with the same color family so you can get away without having to pull the engine. On my '85 I went from Dunkelblau to 1987 Venetian Blue. I stripped as much of the original color as I could because I didn't know what was there, and it eliminates the risk of the old color showing through if it chips. In addition, despite the major changes between '85 and '87 Venetian Blue is what I call a period appropriate color. Are there other colors I like more? Certainly. But other colors might not look as good on that car. I might see a purple suit with gold pinstripes and think it looks good, but I wouldn't buy it because unless I'm "known on the streets" I'll probably get my *** kicked for wearing it.
The bottom line is that these cars are getting old. While many cars are fortunate to have their factory finishes holding up after years of use, the reality is that they are becoming increasingly rare. Most of the 60s muscle cars pulling down 6-7 figures at Barret-Jackson are repaints. While the factory paint is a great standard to maintain, it simply becomes less possible as years go by. Eventually, the market has no choice but to shift from factory original, to resprays. When that happens, the focus is the quality of the respray. And when it's time to respray, if you opt for a color change. Invest some serious thought into the color you want.
But when your paint gets beyond that point, a respray may be the only effective corrective measure. In terms of durability and chip resistance it may not be as good as the factory. But even Maaco is better then factory paint where the clear has failed and started to delaminate.
Can a body shop do as good of a job as the factory. In terms of getting a mirror-like finish, a body shop can usually exceed the factory quality. A body shop can go above and beyond the factory in terms of getting the panels straight and smooth before painting. The factory beats the shop in terms of durability and chip resistance. This is because the factory process is a hybrid between painting and powder coating. The initial primers used by the factory are applied in a similar manner as a powder coating gun where an electric charge is put through the material as it passes through the nozzle. Then the static electricity does something and makes the stuff stick to the panels. Then of course it goes into an oven for a force cure with very high heat. It comes out, cools, base/clear are applied and it goes back in to be cured at temps much higher then the local body shop can produce. Unless you completely strip a car to a bare steel shell, have the guns that apply an electric charge, and have an oven that can hold a car body and heat up to over 300 degrees then there will be some things you cannot replicate from the factory. We have other chemicals that compensate, and they work well, but nothing will be as good as the factory in certain regards.
I can understand why people are weary of resprays. You don't know what the quality is like. You don't know what's under the new paint. That's certainly reasonable. This is where documentation comes in handy.
Color changes aren't very popular for a good reason. Most color changes look really bad and out of place. People do color changes like they audition for American Idol. A lot of people screw up on American Idol because they go to the audition and sing their FAVORITE song, when they should take the time and sing a song that is compatible with their voice. Many people paint their cars in their favorite color without ever considering how that color may look on the car. Many times the end result just looks cheap and bad. Color is a marketing tool on cars just like the model designation. A lot of time and money is spent on consultants who spend a lot of time researching what is appealing. Each color is chosen only after a great deal of work. Of course you can hire a color consultant to help you choose the ideal color, but that will cost you dearly. My recommended course of action for people who feel that a color change is necessary is to look at the colors available for the years immediately surrounding the year your car was made and to stick with the same color family so you can get away without having to pull the engine. On my '85 I went from Dunkelblau to 1987 Venetian Blue. I stripped as much of the original color as I could because I didn't know what was there, and it eliminates the risk of the old color showing through if it chips. In addition, despite the major changes between '85 and '87 Venetian Blue is what I call a period appropriate color. Are there other colors I like more? Certainly. But other colors might not look as good on that car. I might see a purple suit with gold pinstripes and think it looks good, but I wouldn't buy it because unless I'm "known on the streets" I'll probably get my *** kicked for wearing it.
The bottom line is that these cars are getting old. While many cars are fortunate to have their factory finishes holding up after years of use, the reality is that they are becoming increasingly rare. Most of the 60s muscle cars pulling down 6-7 figures at Barret-Jackson are repaints. While the factory paint is a great standard to maintain, it simply becomes less possible as years go by. Eventually, the market has no choice but to shift from factory original, to resprays. When that happens, the focus is the quality of the respray. And when it's time to respray, if you opt for a color change. Invest some serious thought into the color you want.
01-29-2008, 10:03 PM
#22
If you look at the cars at top car shows, most have been extensively restored, which means repainted. I do not think a top quality paint job has to detract from a car's value. I do however like original paint, and I also like patina, as long as it shows love.
IMO, the time to repaint is when a car stops getting admiring glances from passers by, or when YOU can no longer stand it. I do see original cars that blow me away, but I also see cars like Cap'n Earl's, that have been brought back from the brink, and are just as fabulous. OTOH, I can't say I have ever really seen a 928 rat rod that really reached out to me.
IMO, these cars do need to be kept up to some minimal standard. The really good ones really can stand toe to toe with the best of the moderns, but there is still a place for a good ten footer, and I have seen low buck paint jobs that far exceed that standard. It's horses for courses, so pick your poison.
IMO, the time to repaint is when a car stops getting admiring glances from passers by, or when YOU can no longer stand it. I do see original cars that blow me away, but I also see cars like Cap'n Earl's, that have been brought back from the brink, and are just as fabulous. OTOH, I can't say I have ever really seen a 928 rat rod that really reached out to me.
IMO, these cars do need to be kept up to some minimal standard. The really good ones really can stand toe to toe with the best of the moderns, but there is still a place for a good ten footer, and I have seen low buck paint jobs that far exceed that standard. It's horses for courses, so pick your poison.
01-29-2008, 11:10 PM
#23
Race Director
If you want to take a drive down to somewhat sunny norcal, I'd be glad to help you out......I used to be a "professional" detailer when I was younger...but do NOT consider myself a professional anymore....more of an experienced amateur :>).....after seeing what some of the guys in the concours forum (Anthony Orsco, Ron Harris...etc) can do...those guys are the Professionals! I wonder how much further Texas is compared to norcal?
I do have all the stuff.....all the different levels of compunds-polishes-waxes...rotary and orbital buffers...along with the many different pads to match the process....I even have some wetsanding stuff...but I'm still experimenting with that!!!
One of these days I'll get around to polishing-waxing sharky again......since I haven't done it since MAY!!!
01-30-2008, 12:19 AM
#24
Rennlist Member
Last year, I took a auto painting class thru a local community college and the instructor was a local guy who restores classic cars for auto shows. He performs his own painting and has the booths with a sandblasting operation. Several of his cars have won awards including the 1932 Rolls which is beautiful.
Anyway - his recommendation for repainting was - DON'T DO IT - unless you MUST DUE TO RUST. A repainted car silently suggests it has been badly damaged or it has rusted out and had to be fixed, thus the value decreases significantly. Most classic cars these days will be rusted and require repainting because the paints used back in the 30's / 40's were not designed to last 60 or 70 years, they began to break down years ago and rust set in.
But for cars that really don't need it, unless you have rust under the paint - don't repaint. He suggested getting to know your local detailer (who is NOT associated with a paint shop). Take your car to him and show him the problem. If he says he can't do anything look for another detailer, the goods ones don't turn anyone away, they give it a try. There is alot that can be done with a buffer in the hands of a skilled detailer and the cost is MUCH less.
He made the comment that most paint shops make their money on guys that just can't live with that little scuff, door dent, mismatched paint on their car and decide the car has to be repainted. Of course most people want nothing to do with removing the trim, glass etc to save some money, they just want the car painted as fast as it can be done. So the price goes from about $2K for just the materials to infinity!! Then once the car is repainted, that special character the car once had is gone - forever!
Anyway - his recommendation for repainting was - DON'T DO IT - unless you MUST DUE TO RUST. A repainted car silently suggests it has been badly damaged or it has rusted out and had to be fixed, thus the value decreases significantly. Most classic cars these days will be rusted and require repainting because the paints used back in the 30's / 40's were not designed to last 60 or 70 years, they began to break down years ago and rust set in.
But for cars that really don't need it, unless you have rust under the paint - don't repaint. He suggested getting to know your local detailer (who is NOT associated with a paint shop). Take your car to him and show him the problem. If he says he can't do anything look for another detailer, the goods ones don't turn anyone away, they give it a try. There is alot that can be done with a buffer in the hands of a skilled detailer and the cost is MUCH less.
He made the comment that most paint shops make their money on guys that just can't live with that little scuff, door dent, mismatched paint on their car and decide the car has to be repainted. Of course most people want nothing to do with removing the trim, glass etc to save some money, they just want the car painted as fast as it can be done. So the price goes from about $2K for just the materials to infinity!! Then once the car is repainted, that special character the car once had is gone - forever!
01-30-2008, 01:58 AM
#25
Three Wheelin'
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I know you guys are in love with the factory job, but what came from the factory is not all that good. The paints when the 928s were made were not very good quality - even amoung German paints. Pre S4 paint is of very bad quality as can be seen by clear coat peeling and deterioration.
Right now there is value in an original paint because there are still a number of low mileage 928s on the road. Someone wanting a 928 has a wide selection to pick from. However, even the original paint jobs I have seen I have yet to find one that has not had at least one panel repainted. A good shop can hide this, but if you look it shows up. In looking at so many 928s I came up with about 20K miles mean time between accidents. So with a 100K mile car it has probably been four or five minor scrapes. Worse at 100K miles the rock chips on the mirrors, front bumper and hood take more time to repair and make look right than just stripping and repainting.
As these cars deteriorate over time there will be fewer and fewer that have not had at least some paint work. As this happens the value of a high quality paint job will take on premium value over the original. All restored cars start with new paint. The paint put on restorations is alway much better quality than the factory. Go to an antique car show some day and take a look. Do you think that 55 Chevy came from the factory looking that way?
The problem with the repaints I have seen on 928s is the vast majority are terrible. The prep work is not done correctly, the finish is bad - too much orange peel. Usually the monor dents are painted over. Color sanding will only take you so far. After a bit of color sanding you end up breaking the surface of the clear coat and end up with a dull finish that will never stand up and buff out. Yes you can load it with wax and get by for a while, but the paint will always end up dull after a while. Clear coats and solids (yes some colors and some years are solid - no clear coat) have UV protection in the formula. When the paint goes on these chemicals float to the surface and form a protective barrier. When color sanding it is easy to sand through the protective layer and permanently damage the paint. I have seen many many paint jobs ruined by agressive detailing.
To get a really deep and lasting gloss the paint has to be applied in translucent layers. See a car like that next to the factory paint the the buyer will opt for the repaint every time.
Right now there is value in an original paint because there are still a number of low mileage 928s on the road. Someone wanting a 928 has a wide selection to pick from. However, even the original paint jobs I have seen I have yet to find one that has not had at least one panel repainted. A good shop can hide this, but if you look it shows up. In looking at so many 928s I came up with about 20K miles mean time between accidents. So with a 100K mile car it has probably been four or five minor scrapes. Worse at 100K miles the rock chips on the mirrors, front bumper and hood take more time to repair and make look right than just stripping and repainting.
As these cars deteriorate over time there will be fewer and fewer that have not had at least some paint work. As this happens the value of a high quality paint job will take on premium value over the original. All restored cars start with new paint. The paint put on restorations is alway much better quality than the factory. Go to an antique car show some day and take a look. Do you think that 55 Chevy came from the factory looking that way?
The problem with the repaints I have seen on 928s is the vast majority are terrible. The prep work is not done correctly, the finish is bad - too much orange peel. Usually the monor dents are painted over. Color sanding will only take you so far. After a bit of color sanding you end up breaking the surface of the clear coat and end up with a dull finish that will never stand up and buff out. Yes you can load it with wax and get by for a while, but the paint will always end up dull after a while. Clear coats and solids (yes some colors and some years are solid - no clear coat) have UV protection in the formula. When the paint goes on these chemicals float to the surface and form a protective barrier. When color sanding it is easy to sand through the protective layer and permanently damage the paint. I have seen many many paint jobs ruined by agressive detailing.
To get a really deep and lasting gloss the paint has to be applied in translucent layers. See a car like that next to the factory paint the the buyer will opt for the repaint every time.
05-20-2012, 09:05 AM
#26
1st Gear
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1984 euro 928 original paint ?
WHAT TYPE OF PAINT WAS ORIGINALLY USED ON MY 1984 EURO GUARDS RED 928? THIS MORNING A DOG DECIDED TO TAKE ME ON.
HE DAMAGED THE FRONT BUMPER AND FRONT LEFT FENDER.
THE CARS PAINT WAS NEAR PERFECT ALL ORIGINAL.
I'M LOOKING FOR A REPAIR SHOP AND WOULD LIKE TO USE THE ORIGINAL PAINT TYPE SYSTEM FOR THE REPAIR.
LAQUER PAINT ????
HELP THANKS
HE DAMAGED THE FRONT BUMPER AND FRONT LEFT FENDER.
THE CARS PAINT WAS NEAR PERFECT ALL ORIGINAL.
I'M LOOKING FOR A REPAIR SHOP AND WOULD LIKE TO USE THE ORIGINAL PAINT TYPE SYSTEM FOR THE REPAIR.
LAQUER PAINT ????
HELP THANKS
05-20-2012, 08:59 PM
#27
Chronic Tool Dropper
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WHAT TYPE OF PAINT WAS ORIGINALLY USED ON MY 1984 EURO GUARDS RED 928? THIS MORNING A DOG DECIDED TO TAKE ME ON.
HE DAMAGED THE FRONT BUMPER AND FRONT LEFT FENDER.
THE CARS PAINT WAS NEAR PERFECT ALL ORIGINAL.
I'M LOOKING FOR A REPAIR SHOP AND WOULD LIKE TO USE THE ORIGINAL PAINT TYPE SYSTEM FOR THE REPAIR.
LAQUER PAINT ????
HELP THANKS
HE DAMAGED THE FRONT BUMPER AND FRONT LEFT FENDER.
THE CARS PAINT WAS NEAR PERFECT ALL ORIGINAL.
I'M LOOKING FOR A REPAIR SHOP AND WOULD LIKE TO USE THE ORIGINAL PAINT TYPE SYSTEM FOR THE REPAIR.
LAQUER PAINT ????
HELP THANKS
Your car came with a single-stage paint that your body shop won't be willing to match. And you don't want them to. The exact details are in the WSM, but that paint is no longer available. The shop will need to match color to your 30 year old paint that is no longer the original color. You'll want them to match the gloss/finish of what you have unless you want a complete respray, and that usually involves blending with clear. For a complete respray, you'll want them to use the best paint system they are used to using, so you get all the right prep chems, primers/sealers/surfacers under the new paint.
You might look for a used fender in the original color, and hope that it has faded the same as your part has. Post your location, perhaps there's a used fender nearby. 928 International carries them, and ships pieces all over the world. Your Euro fender may be a little tougher if it still has the marker/signal behind the front wheel, since most used here will be from US cars.
And welcome to the group!
05-21-2012, 05:51 AM
#28
Three Wheelin'
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I have to disagree here with the analysis above. Single stage catalyized paint is still available. A good paint shop can tint the regular formula to match the amount of fade in your paint. They just need a good sample to get the match.
The Restoration Shop in San Diego sells single stage paint and Jimmy Chips can match things for you.
There is a reason to use the single stage paint in that it will continue to fade with your paint at about the same rate. If you use a two stage with clear the repaired area will always look different as it will not fade at the same rate and the clear will add a dimension that does not match the rest of the car.
Do not use lacquer. Yes it is ideal for blending with existing paints but with red it will fade at a much slower rates. No one does lacquer patching these days and end up instead paint complete panels. If you have ever seen a red car with significant spot of non faded red it was patched with lacquer. Now if you want a show car and are willing to do the work there is no way to get a deeper luster than shine than by using lacquer. No one does this any more because it is so much work, but no matter how many clear coats you color sand you will never get the depth of a fine lacquer job.
The single stage on your car when polished will give almost the same effect. Before having the paint matched be sure to use a section of the car that has been polished so you can get best match. On the bumper repair strip the bumper, use flexible primer and treat the paint with SEM flex agent.
Good luck
The Restoration Shop in San Diego sells single stage paint and Jimmy Chips can match things for you.
There is a reason to use the single stage paint in that it will continue to fade with your paint at about the same rate. If you use a two stage with clear the repaired area will always look different as it will not fade at the same rate and the clear will add a dimension that does not match the rest of the car.
Do not use lacquer. Yes it is ideal for blending with existing paints but with red it will fade at a much slower rates. No one does lacquer patching these days and end up instead paint complete panels. If you have ever seen a red car with significant spot of non faded red it was patched with lacquer. Now if you want a show car and are willing to do the work there is no way to get a deeper luster than shine than by using lacquer. No one does this any more because it is so much work, but no matter how many clear coats you color sand you will never get the depth of a fine lacquer job.
The single stage on your car when polished will give almost the same effect. Before having the paint matched be sure to use a section of the car that has been polished so you can get best match. On the bumper repair strip the bumper, use flexible primer and treat the paint with SEM flex agent.
Good luck
