Check timing marks on camshaft sprockets, is this correct?
#16
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#17
Team Owner
Ok to test the flappy with a vacuum tester find the driverside On ( US car)cylinder # 5-8, head and at the front is a valve with 2 vacuum lines and an electric connector,one should go to the car vacuum and it gets plugged into the port on the valve that if you suck on will give resistance the other line is open or ported to the atmosphere this line should be connected to the flappy valve.
The flappy line should run under down the driverside of the intake and be connected to the flappy valve it is common to mix these 2 hoses up, if they are connected backwards then they will give you a small vacuum leak
To test the flappy connect the tester to the flappy vacuum line then remove the rubber cover on top of the manifold and operate the tester you should see the flappy shaft move and release with vacuum applied, you may also want to check to make sure the elex connector is connected to the valve at the front of the cylinder head as well.If the flappy doent move then either the diaphram is ruptured or the vacuum line has come off under the manifold, this is a bit tricky to fix but a long set of bent needle nose pliers and laying on top of the engine with MAF /aircleaner removed might be able to get to it.
The timing marks are best checked with the engine crank pointer at 0IT and if you can see the rear sides of the cam pulleys you will find small V`s cut indicating TDC for the cams, the marks on the fronts are not as acurate to go on, this is also easier if the cam covers are removed
The flappy line should run under down the driverside of the intake and be connected to the flappy valve it is common to mix these 2 hoses up, if they are connected backwards then they will give you a small vacuum leak
To test the flappy connect the tester to the flappy vacuum line then remove the rubber cover on top of the manifold and operate the tester you should see the flappy shaft move and release with vacuum applied, you may also want to check to make sure the elex connector is connected to the valve at the front of the cylinder head as well.If the flappy doent move then either the diaphram is ruptured or the vacuum line has come off under the manifold, this is a bit tricky to fix but a long set of bent needle nose pliers and laying on top of the engine with MAF /aircleaner removed might be able to get to it.
The timing marks are best checked with the engine crank pointer at 0IT and if you can see the rear sides of the cam pulleys you will find small V`s cut indicating TDC for the cams, the marks on the fronts are not as acurate to go on, this is also easier if the cam covers are removed
#18
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Ok to test the flappy with a vacuum tester find the driverside On ( US car)cylinder # 5-8, head and at the front is a valve with 2 vacuum lines and an electric connector,one should go to the car vacuum and it gets plugged into the port on the valve that if you suck on will give resistance the other line is open or ported to the atmosphere this line should be connected to the flappy valve.
The flappy line should run under down the driverside of the intake and be connected to the flappy valve it is common to mix these 2 hoses up, if they are connected backwards then they will give you a small vacuum leak
To test the flappy connect the tester to the flappy vacuum line then remove the rubber cover on top of the manifold and operate the tester you should see the flappy shaft move and release with vacuum applied, you may also want to check to make sure the elex connector is connected to the valve at the front of the cylinder head as well.If the flappy doent move then either the diaphram is ruptured or the vacuum line has come off under the manifold, this is a bit tricky to fix but a long set of bent needle nose pliers and laying on top of the engine with MAF /aircleaner removed might be able to get to it.
The timing marks are best checked with the engine crank pointer at 0IT and if you can see the rear sides of the cam pulleys you will find small V`s cut indicating TDC for the cams, the marks on the fronts are not as acurate to go on, this is also easier if the cam covers are removed
The flappy line should run under down the driverside of the intake and be connected to the flappy valve it is common to mix these 2 hoses up, if they are connected backwards then they will give you a small vacuum leak
To test the flappy connect the tester to the flappy vacuum line then remove the rubber cover on top of the manifold and operate the tester you should see the flappy shaft move and release with vacuum applied, you may also want to check to make sure the elex connector is connected to the valve at the front of the cylinder head as well.If the flappy doent move then either the diaphram is ruptured or the vacuum line has come off under the manifold, this is a bit tricky to fix but a long set of bent needle nose pliers and laying on top of the engine with MAF /aircleaner removed might be able to get to it.
The timing marks are best checked with the engine crank pointer at 0IT and if you can see the rear sides of the cam pulleys you will find small V`s cut indicating TDC for the cams, the marks on the fronts are not as acurate to go on, this is also easier if the cam covers are removed
Regards
Lefteris
#19
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Ok to test the flappy with a vacuum tester find the driverside On ( US car)cylinder # 5-8, head and at the front is a valve with 2 vacuum lines and an electric connector,one should go to the car vacuum and it gets plugged into the port on the valve that if you suck on will give resistance the other line is open or ported to the atmosphere this line should be connected to the flappy valve.
The flappy line should run under down the driverside of the intake and be connected to the flappy valve it is common to mix these 2 hoses up, if they are connected backwards then they will give you a small vacuum leak
To test the flappy connect the tester to the flappy vacuum line then remove the rubber cover on top of the manifold and operate the tester you should see the flappy shaft move and release with vacuum applied, you may also want to check to make sure the elex connector is connected to the valve at the front of the cylinder head as well.If the flappy doent move then either the diaphram is ruptured or the vacuum line has come off under the manifold, this is a bit tricky to fix but a long set of bent needle nose pliers and laying on top of the engine with MAF /aircleaner removed might be able to get to it.
The timing marks are best checked with the engine crank pointer at 0IT and if you can see the rear sides of the cam pulleys you will find small V`s cut indicating TDC for the cams, the marks on the fronts are not as acurate to go on, this is also easier if the cam covers are removed
The flappy line should run under down the driverside of the intake and be connected to the flappy valve it is common to mix these 2 hoses up, if they are connected backwards then they will give you a small vacuum leak
To test the flappy connect the tester to the flappy vacuum line then remove the rubber cover on top of the manifold and operate the tester you should see the flappy shaft move and release with vacuum applied, you may also want to check to make sure the elex connector is connected to the valve at the front of the cylinder head as well.If the flappy doent move then either the diaphram is ruptured or the vacuum line has come off under the manifold, this is a bit tricky to fix but a long set of bent needle nose pliers and laying on top of the engine with MAF /aircleaner removed might be able to get to it.
The timing marks are best checked with the engine crank pointer at 0IT and if you can see the rear sides of the cam pulleys you will find small V`s cut indicating TDC for the cams, the marks on the fronts are not as acurate to go on, this is also easier if the cam covers are removed
''To test the flappy connect the tester to the flappy vacuum line then remove the rubber cover on top of the manifold and operate the tester you should see the flappy shaft move and release with vacuum applied''
Check done and works great!
''you may also want to check to make sure the elex connector is connected to the valve at the front of the cylinder head as well''
Check done and it is in place!
Please take a look on the photo where the flappy vacuum line was connected, is this the correct spot ?
Also when accellerate the engine above 4000rpm the shaft move just a little (1mm or so) and release!
Last edited by Lefteris; 01-22-2008 at 04:08 PM.
#20
Drifting
What happens when you bypass the vacuum solenoid with the engine running: simply connect the vacuum tubes together. Is there sufficient vacuum to operate the flappy?
#21
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i run a line from the brake booster (one way valve) to the flappy directly. once you start the engine it pegs flappy open. maximizes HP from 3700rpm to redline. with out it, you get a big dip in HP from 3700 to 5000rpm or so.
mk
mk
#22
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From http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc_act.html
1) Start with the vacuum check valve under the hood next to the brake booster. The black side should be to the booster; the blue side to the four-way tee. Disconnect the check valve from the tee and test that the valve holds vacuum by putting the vacuum pump to the blue side.
2) Next disconnect the Y-connector to the cruise control (NOTE by me: my car have a cruise control but there is no Y-connector, its only the line to the reservoir on the four-way tee) one of the and reservoir and test for vacuum. Due to the size of the reservoir your hand/arm will start to ache by the time you draw 10 inches of vacuum (lots of pumping).
3) Pull the black line which runs through the firewall under the center console to the HVAC vacuum console and test.
4)Test the line to the intake flap control by pulling the white line.
5) Locate the intake flap control (at top of driver-side cam belt cover, front of the fuel rail) and remove the vacuum hose that runs under the intake manifold to the actuator. You can also remove the round rubber cover on top of the manifold and watch the flap spindle turn as you test. Should this vacuum test fail the manifold will need to be removed to replace the actuator.
6) Remove the engine air intake box and locate the heater valve. Verify that the black side is oriented toward the engine (the valve is uni-directional).
Now what?
#23
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Thanks
Lefteris
#24
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You did this as a test or you leave it like this permanently?!
#25
Team Owner
the hose that goes to the flappy should be plugged onto the valve that when the car is off if you suck on the outlet it wont hold any suction the other port of the valve will hold suction so this is connected to the cars vacuum source.
Mark races his car so he doesnt need low end power as much as you would in city driving, so having the flappy always connected to vacuum will change low end power, thats why it opens at about 3600 to 4000 rpm this is good for a daily driver on the street
Mark races his car so he doesnt need low end power as much as you would in city driving, so having the flappy always connected to vacuum will change low end power, thats why it opens at about 3600 to 4000 rpm this is good for a daily driver on the street
#26
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the hose that goes to the flappy should be plugged onto the valve that when the car is off if you suck on the outlet it wont hold any suction the other port of the valve will hold suction so this is connected to the cars vacuum source.
Mark races his car so he doesnt need low end power as much as you would in city driving, so having the flappy always connected to vacuum will change low end power, thats why it opens at about 3600 to 4000 rpm this is good for a daily driver on the street
Mark races his car so he doesnt need low end power as much as you would in city driving, so having the flappy always connected to vacuum will change low end power, thats why it opens at about 3600 to 4000 rpm this is good for a daily driver on the street
Lefteris
#27
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No moves at all when I just start the engine!
Any help please?
Regards
Lefteris
Last edited by Lefteris; 01-23-2008 at 10:30 AM.
#28
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It is possible that the vacuum actuator for the flappy has a small leak.
Can you suck on the hose and hold the vacuum and see if it leaks over 30 seconds?
Can you suck on the hose and hold the vacuum and see if it leaks over 30 seconds?
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#29
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#30
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Also my mechanic looks like it was under OUZO the day that it put the belt, he told me that it check the belt tension by hand and he forget to refill the tensioner with oil....
So he will do it all over again for free and with the Timing Belt Tensioner Tool that you will send me along with the new Flappy Actuator it will be all correct this time, and I will be there in order to be sure.
PS The mechanic answer when I ask him about the Timing Belt Tensioner Tool: ''Who needs a tool in order to check the correct tension, my hand is the best tool''
And the funny thing is that he did it this way for 10+ years now and no one have any problems!!!
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Lefteris