400 lbs of paint--Good Grief......(long post).....
#31
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That aluminum looks cool sanded down! I think others are right, this car would look sweet with a polished exterior. The lines on the car really stand out with the light reflection.
Look forwrad to seeing your end results Russ and thanks for posting progress.
Look forwrad to seeing your end results Russ and thanks for posting progress.
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As you can see in the pics, the grinder puts some pretty good scratches in the aluminum, too much to try to bring back smooth for polishing.
I hate to think of the hours necessary to sand it back perfectly smooth---60 paper, then 120, then 300 or so, then out to 400, 800, then 1000 and finally polishing with 3 different stages of jeweler's rouge......
I've repaired scratches in my aluminum fuel tanks (on my Peterbilts) before, and it's a real headache.......
and then you have to keep polishing them every 3-4 months to stay on top of it. What to do about the steel sections? just leaving the unpainted aluminum sections would be weird....
--Russ
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Removing the spoiler, hood crest, and then it's the lower windshield panel, hood, and the remainders of the front fenders today---nice weather.....
--Russ
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--Russ
#37
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36 grit is way too coarse IMO. Thats why its going so quickly. I have never started with anything coarser than 80 grit on an automobile. When you are doing the body work, keep this in mind. If you can feel it, you will see it. The smallest scratches will show up in the paint. The darker and shinier your paint is, the harder it will be to get it to look perfect. I notice a large ding inder your passenger side rear quarter window. Try hammering that out or pulling it out before applying any filler. Also, when you are blocking the body after primer, spray a light coat of black on the area you are working on. This will help you see the high and low spots easier instead of a sea of light grey. Lighting the car from the sides and bottom will also help you to see imperfections. The aluminum will need an etching primer. Your sales rep at the paint store should be able to fill you in on all of the details.
Keep us posted. I am enjoying this thread and follwing your progress.
Keep us posted. I am enjoying this thread and follwing your progress.
#38
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When you are doing the body work, keep this in mind. If you can feel it, you will see it. The smallest scratches will show up in the paint. The darker and shinier your paint is, the harder it will be to get it to look perfect. I notice a large ding inder your passenger side rear quarter window. Try hammering that out or pulling it out before applying any filler.
Thanks Fab---
The key here is I will not be doing the body work, I'm just doing the paint removal, per my resto guy's instructions.
all rust area blasting, body work repair (dings and dents), primer and paint application will be done by some who knows what the heck their doing!!!!!
I'm just the flunky paint remover------
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
(Ooops....better get back to it---)
--Russ
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All the memories are flooding back of my work on the 78 now. When you sand the metal, how were you planing on keeping the galvinization? Or is that no longer a concern? On the aluminum, I used a two stage pre-primer process to alodine the aluminum.
I hated doing all this when I was doing it, but now I look back and think of it in a postive way.
I hated doing all this when I was doing it, but now I look back and think of it in a postive way.
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And unless you enjoy the smell of burning plastic, then you should have the bumpers media blasted.
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I was going to have the whole car blasted, but that was a $1500 bill.
If I had my body guy (Paul) do the paint removal, it was, again, going to be a $1500 bill 'cause he'd just send it out to be blasted, too.
as for the galvanizing, Paul will be using a primer that has galvanizing in it (or something like that, I'm not sure exactly what it is, but he knows what he's doing). Anyway, we discussed it, he's aware of that issue.
As for the real deal body repair (a few minor areas), primering, block sanding, and paint work, I'm leaving that stuff to my resto guy. He knows better what primers to use, those that work with the PPG paint he uses on his HEMI car frame up restorations.
I did finish the final paint removal today, just need to do the minor stuff before getting off to Paul's shop.....who knows when I'll get it back.
--Russ
Last edited by largecar379; 12-14-2008 at 02:27 AM.
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just spray can primer from my local auto parts dealer (NAPA).
it's for aluminum (for doors, good, front fenders), and galvanized steel (the rest of the body panels).
this first coat is only anti-rust (for steel sections) and anti-oxidation (for aluminum sections), until I get it to my body shop guy. there is more work to be done before serious primering, block sanding, etc., starts......
--Russ
it's for aluminum (for doors, good, front fenders), and galvanized steel (the rest of the body panels).
this first coat is only anti-rust (for steel sections) and anti-oxidation (for aluminum sections), until I get it to my body shop guy. there is more work to be done before serious primering, block sanding, etc., starts......
--Russ
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My resto guy will be painting it--I could do it myself, but I don' have the facilities or equipment to do it. Better to let the Pro do that........I'm just the flunky paint remover.
--Russ