borland

I just got a quote for the radiator for my 90' S4 Automatic.

928.106.042.03 radiator w/trans oil cooler

$705.35 plus S&H from Sunset Porsche.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Good deal but only fits 1990 and newer automatic 928s , the two cooler radiator which MOST 928s need is considerably more expensive . Actually there are 23 of the 042 03 in Germany so three weeks or so for delivery and I would expect that when/if Porsche re-orders another batch from Behr that the price will be adjusted. Not a bad deal unless you need an internal engine oil cooler too.

The_Remora

I need to either fix or replace my radiator as it has a bad leak in the core that had been, until recently, plugged up with 'Stop-Leak' by a PO. Sure hope that crud didn't gunk up my block and head passages too much.... I have been doing some research on which way to go and have found this thread immensely helpful (thanks again guys, this site is amazing). I'm looking for long-term reliability, but also can't help but be attracted to the bling of cool aftermarket performance parts. After re-reading through the posts a couple of times I have a few questions. Also, if any of you have logged additional on the road or track miles with the C&R since this thread dropped off the front page, please post your up to date experiences if you don't mind. Although in the dead of winter I would guess there is not much going on out there unfortunately...
It states in 928-International's catalog (vol-16'07) that Mark A uses the original Behr radiator in his race car. Is this still the case? Says a lot for the OEM radiator if that is still true after having the C&R available for a while now. Why not use the C&R instead? Ease of maintenance / access issues? Extra weight? If it ain't broke don't fix it?

About how much heavier is "slightly heavier" (a couple lbs?... >10 lbs?) and why is the extra weight in the nose not such a bad thing? Balance? Does it affect turn-in? How much more fluid than stock does it hold? Approx how much cooler does the car run?

Here is a pic I found of the C&R installed (courtesy Motorsports site)

The top tabs do not appear to be trimmed as described by Ben and Dave C; maybe there is not a fitment issue with some cars due to varying tolerances as was noted? Would these tabs hinder air flow into the intake tubes? Seems easy enough to dremel them off either way, provided that would not weaken the radiator much.

Also, what are your experiences, both positive and negative, with getting a Behr radiator repaired, particularly the core, not the end tanks? And experience with used OEM radiators?
Thanks for any and all additional comments!
Chris

928drvr86.5

The upper shroud pictured does not appear to be fastened correctly or at least the way it was from the factory. Actually it does not appear to be fastened at all to the two spring nut tabs located just inside of the air ducts.

Bill51sdr

That may have been done in order to get the correct clearance between the fan shroud seal and the hood. The C & R radiator is a bit taller than the Behr.

928drvr86.5

Yep, that is what is being discussed.

Bill51sdr

I know... I've got one.

Stephencs601

Wow, such a simple opinion turned into a mess in the middle there. If you do not have something positive to say in someones thread, just say nothing and go forward.

Bill51sdr

aggravation

Damn! Chill out guys, no one is trying to put anyone/thing down. People just offered their opinion, no big deal on either side of the misunderstanding.
Crap, if you don't, radiators are going to turn into the next supercharger vs. turbocharger drama!!

Ispeed

It does sit as low as it needs to be, but that was after some trimming of the front edge of the rubber supports on the bottom so that it went down as far as it could, and also the small aluminum tabs that the shroud screws to on the top.
The rubber supports are round, and you have to make them flat on the front edge so that the thicker radiator can sit 1/8" farther towards the engine and not have an aluminum lip sit ON the bumper. The end tanks have a lip on each side that would center the bumper on the tank.

It is down as far as it needs to go so that the shroud and rubber seal meets the bottom of the hood the way it should and the hood closes all the way.

perrys4

I put one in recently and had no issues and I am not that mechanically inclined. ONly thing I thought could be improved was the plastic piece at the top (breather hose?). A 90 degree bend on that piece would keep the hose from rubbing the hood when closed and the hose could run straight into it without looping upward. I bought a couple extra to keep in the glove box in case it breaks.

worf928

That plastic piece is a stock Porsche part for the radiator.

perrys4

Doesn't mean it doesn't suck! :-) A 90 bend in the fitting would allow the hose to run along the top of the Rad straight into the fitting. Makes way more sense.

worf928

But it does mean that it isn't "Mark's Fault."

And I don't *think* it is a problem if you've installed the rest of the radiator properly and your car hasn't been squished. I'm waiting on a putty test from Carl before I make up my mind about it though.

Perhaps. But, you would not be able to use the hose that came with the car. You would need to replace the hose yourself, or the radiator would need to ship with a replacement non-stock hose.

EDIT: Note also that the end tanks are the same. So, unless you can find a 90-bend fitting with the same threads as the drain plug then you'd have to have two different side tanks. And increase the price of the radiator.