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Aluminum to steel lower ball joint question

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Old 01-09-2008, 07:37 PM
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Jim bailey - 928 International
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I run a stock antisway bar so may get more body roll than some but the Eibach springs (which somehow found their way on the car )and VERY low suspension setting limits that somewhat but I do grind down the bracket and the two big M12x100 MM bolts for the lower front a arm I changed the bolts when 1/2 the head thickness was gone. Most of my track time is on the short track Streets of Willow 13 turns 1.8 miles a very busy track lots of turns relatively low speeds max a bit over 100 mph and LOTS of RUN OFF. It allows you to test and exceed the limit with little chance you will stuff your car into a wall ,tire barrier, tree, or a ditch On big Willow motoring around turn 8 into turn 9 at 6,000 in 4 th can make you think "what if " but only for a moment then you go what the hell I think it will stick....
Old 01-09-2008, 07:44 PM
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Dwayne
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Originally Posted by Mike Simard
Is this the thread for pictures of clean undersides that just had the steel ball joint upgrade bought from and advised by Jim B?


Dwayne, I admire your work so much I just couldn't resist posting this, it's almost as clean as your car!....
WOW!! That's so shiny and blindingly clean I had to use sunglasses!! My hat's off to you, sir....Very nice indeedy!
Old 06-13-2009, 07:07 PM
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Fabio421
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I was just in the process of replacing my lower ball joints in my 78 from aluminum to steel when I noticed that the ball joints are built differently. The large and small eccentric holes are opposite of the stock unit. Is this normal? Also, after reading a couple threads, I've seen mention that I may need to change the eccentrics too. Is this true in all cases? The eccentrics I have are steel if that makes a difference.
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Old 06-13-2009, 07:22 PM
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WallyP

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Yes, the arrangement is different.

You must change one eccentric on each side, but it is better to have four new ones.

You can reuse the bracket - the bolts will be a little long with the thinner steel parts.



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