Overheating Puzzle
01-24-2008, 11:19 AM
#106
So if anyone with experience on pulling a 16v wants to throw some comments out on the job, please speak up. Also the actual job at hand in replacing the gaskets. I really do need to replace the cam box gaskets too as they leak oil..,may as well do a pan gasket too huh. Guess I will order up a top end gasket kit.
Also, the AC unit itself hangs up a little if you don't take it off first.
I'd rebuild the heads and replace at least the rod bearings WYIAT. Port match the intake runners to the heads while they are disassembled.
01-24-2008, 12:10 PM
#108
In the words of the great, and greatly old WaltK, "Real men pull engines,"
01-24-2008, 01:08 PM
#109
Was just thinking about saying that. Walt would be proud of you! Of course Walt has had to pull his engines so many times, that now he cheats and only uses four bolts to install them.
BTW anyone want to take odds on how long before I have an email from Walt?Dennis
01-24-2008, 01:51 PM
#110
Rennlist Member
scot and i have pulled his 4 times. from the start , we have the motor out of the car in about 3-4 hous and on a stand.
hard part is the headers, but stock manifolds are much easier to pull off. However, i dont know for sure, but you might not even have to pull the manifolds off, just the down pipe. separate the bell housing (auto transmission stuff, which i have never seen in person before) then, all the usual radiator, hoses, electrical stuff . loosen the motor mounts, rent a cherry picker for a few hours and pull it out and put on an engine stand. then the fun begins.
If you need a block (brand new engine) scot and I still have our 4.7 euro motor. Its just a bolt on affair .
Mk
hard part is the headers, but stock manifolds are much easier to pull off. However, i dont know for sure, but you might not even have to pull the manifolds off, just the down pipe. separate the bell housing (auto transmission stuff, which i have never seen in person before) then, all the usual radiator, hoses, electrical stuff . loosen the motor mounts, rent a cherry picker for a few hours and pull it out and put on an engine stand. then the fun begins.
If you need a block (brand new engine) scot and I still have our 4.7 euro motor. Its just a bolt on affair .
Mk
Yea Stan, I know. I tell everyone else to do it and need to listen to my own words. I have had some time tonight to think about it and pulling the engine is actually a lot easier than trying to fool with it in the car. I can probably do it myself, but will see if I can enlist the help of a couple of locals if they are up to it. I can get a stand and shop crane for well under $200 and it just seems like a no brainer. BTW, it's a 4.7 Euro, so tossing it is not really an option I prefer.
I mean heck, it's only a 16v auto and there really isn't much to disconnect. I'd probably have it out in a day from start to sitting on a stand. Sure makes it easier to work on and around the engine. I'd probably even get it done quicker and back in within a couple of weeks if even that long. This of course is with no unforeseen headaches.
So if anyone with experience on pulling a 16v wants to throw some comments out on the job, please speak up. Also the actual job at hand in replacing the gaskets. I really do need to replace the cam box gaskets too as they leak oil..,may as well do a pan gasket too huh. Guess I will order up a top end gasket kit.
Oh yea, nothing but fun ahead. Just wish I truly had the time for this. I GOTTA get this freakin thing outta my garage already!
I mean heck, it's only a 16v auto and there really isn't much to disconnect. I'd probably have it out in a day from start to sitting on a stand. Sure makes it easier to work on and around the engine. I'd probably even get it done quicker and back in within a couple of weeks if even that long. This of course is with no unforeseen headaches.
So if anyone with experience on pulling a 16v wants to throw some comments out on the job, please speak up. Also the actual job at hand in replacing the gaskets. I really do need to replace the cam box gaskets too as they leak oil..,may as well do a pan gasket too huh. Guess I will order up a top end gasket kit.
Oh yea, nothing but fun ahead. Just wish I truly had the time for this. I GOTTA get this freakin thing outta my garage already!
01-24-2008, 02:26 PM
#111
Burning Brakes
I am in the process of doing a TB/water pump and replacing the head gaskets on my '85. At first I considered trying to do it W/ the engine in the car even tho it has studs and has to be pulled, some on the list have been able to do it W/ the engine in the car. I am glad I pulled the motor and have the engine on a stand. The heads did NOT want to come off of the block and I can only imagine trying to get them off in the car. Sounds like you have a few things to sort out W/ the cooling passages and this in its self wil be worth pulling the motor and having it on a stand. Read up/gear up and pull it, in the long run you will be glad you did. Oh yea and give yourself a budget and try to stick to it the WYIT stuff is a very slipery slope.
01-24-2008, 04:25 PM
#112
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Thanks for the files Richard. I already made a list of what needs to get disconnected and you have a couple of items I didn't list. However, I thought I could just unbolt the 4 bolts at the TT and coupler and just slide it off the shaft without having to fool with the flex plate and all while it was in the car. Can this not be done? How can you possibly get tot the Bell housing bolts while its in anyway? I know I would have to take the bell housing cover off when the engine is out before I bolt it to the stand. Can this be done? Also, is it really necessary to remove the smog pump, PS pump and alt?
Mark, I can just disconnect the exhaust at the manifold and the engine should come out with them attached.
Brendan, I thought about the rings and rods and all, but not sure I need to do that and would prefer not to. What is Gaskacinch? I yanked the AC off this thing a while back.
I guess I could rent a cherry picker from a local auto parts store...we'll see who has one up here.
Mark, I can just disconnect the exhaust at the manifold and the engine should come out with them attached.
Brendan, I thought about the rings and rods and all, but not sure I need to do that and would prefer not to. What is Gaskacinch? I yanked the AC off this thing a while back.
I guess I could rent a cherry picker from a local auto parts store...we'll see who has one up here.
01-24-2008, 05:48 PM
#114
Burning Brakes
the 2 top 19mm bolts on top of the bell housing were not going to move for me when I pulled the engine. I ended up removing the 4 bolts @ the torque tube and coupler, pulled the motor W/ bellhousing attached to where I had enough room to get a better angle on the 2 19mm top bolts. I had to use a breaker bar/pipe to get them loose. Also be sure to use a six point wrench.
01-24-2008, 06:10 PM
#115
Team Owner
Keith, you should be able to remove all 4 bell housing/engine bolts and the flex plate/ drive attach from the fly wheel,(spray a line on with some paint, so to put it back in its original position) you can get to the top right bolt from above and the top left from underneath, the lower bolts are a no brainer, drain the block B4 you pull but after you remove the bolts so you dont have to work in a puddle, it also helps to have a helper fitting the harness through the firewall as you pull. I know this isnt the best thing but you will find some reason for feeling good after your done, plus you get all of the wonderful help from everyone thats pulling for you, goodluck, Stan
01-24-2008, 06:15 PM
#116
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I took a look as the air box is off. Seems easy enough to get to...just hope they come loose. Still, I don't see why the flex plate and ring gear need to come off before removal. It was a major PITA when i did the rear main fooling with those things. Separating the coupling should free it up after the bell housing bolts are out....don't ya think?
Going to pick up an engine stand that was used once for $25 from a local guy. The engine hoist is scheduled for Saturday at $30 for the day. This gives me today and tomorrow to detach everything. Piece O' cake
ADDED: OK, I remember now, there is a flange on the TT shaft that is "C" clip attached at the front to prevent the flex plate from traveling forward. MAN...that part was a bitch! BTW, I never lined that thing up to it's original position and haven't noticed any difference when driving it.
Oh yeah, also, I only have an eyelet at the back of the engine(driver side) for hoisting. Where do I attach at the front passenger side?
Going to pick up an engine stand that was used once for $25 from a local guy. The engine hoist is scheduled for Saturday at $30 for the day. This gives me today and tomorrow to detach everything. Piece O' cake
ADDED: OK, I remember now, there is a flange on the TT shaft that is "C" clip attached at the front to prevent the flex plate from traveling forward. MAN...that part was a bitch! BTW, I never lined that thing up to it's original position and haven't noticed any difference when driving it.
Oh yeah, also, I only have an eyelet at the back of the engine(driver side) for hoisting. Where do I attach at the front passenger side?
01-24-2008, 06:32 PM
#117
Team Owner
if you dont have alifting lug try wrapping some motorcyclyer tiedowns around the ex manifolds bot hsides use 4 of them , thats should also provide you some security , you wont break anything
03-01-2012, 05:47 PM
#119
Team Owner
is this fixed??
04-22-2012, 02:04 PM
#120
1st Gear
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my coolant is leaking around my oil pan, I think its coming from the back of the oil pan but i dont have a lift so i can't be sure. I have a 1984 928s -US spec. It's been running hot lately but there are no leaks around the radiator or hoses. the passenger side front hose is hot but the driver side isn't. Do you think it's my water pump? When I look straight down in the front of the engine it's all dry.