Rear Main Seal & CV Boot Life Spans????????
08-29-2002, 04:29 PM
#16
Burning Brakes
Hey Thom,
I don't know if loctite on the hex socket bolts is necessary. May make it more difficult to do next time around. Just use a torque wrench set to the proper value. I checked my bolts again yesterday and everything was snugged just fine.
You won't have to replace any hex socket bolts either. If they are no broken or stripped, there is no problem re-using them.
Cheers
Bernie
I don't know if loctite on the hex socket bolts is necessary. May make it more difficult to do next time around. Just use a torque wrench set to the proper value. I checked my bolts again yesterday and everything was snugged just fine.
You won't have to replace any hex socket bolts either. If they are no broken or stripped, there is no problem re-using them.
Cheers
Bernie
08-29-2002, 04:36 PM
#17
Drifting
1. Cleanup cv joints: Clear Large Storage Box, Cardboard, Paper Towels, Shop Towels, Brushes,
Squirt Bottle. Mineral Spirits, Brake Cleaner, MEK, or Acetone?
I used Simple Green in a small dishpan with stiff nylon brush and my fingers to work out the clumps of old grease.
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv6.jpg" target="_blank">CV bath</a>
2. Loctite on CV Boot Bolts
3. CV Boots & Bolts – replace
They arent CV BOOT bolts persay, they are CV Joint bolts. No need to replace them if they are ok. Just clean them up too and make sure to re-torque them to spec when reinstalling. (45lb/ft i believe)
4. Mark cv orientation before removal. Install with same orientation.
Very Helpful - Check this pic. Notice the groove in the CV body. that should always be the outside face or the end where the circlip goes.
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv1.jpg" target="_blank">CV joint assy</a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv8.jpg" target="_blank">CV joint side view</a>
5. Sheet metal cutters, hex keys, sharp pick, and tin snips for removing and marking cv boots.Cv clamp tool or nail remover works. Circlip Pliers
I was able to cut off the old clamps with a pair of dykes. Crimp tool and Circlip pliers just make the job easier. Worth the money.
I regreased mine the old fashinoned way. I worked by hand just like packing a wheel bearing. Messy though - Have plenty of paper towels on hand.
7. Put WD-40 inside boot lips for easier installation
You can do this without WD-40. (I dont know if wd-40 and rubber make a good combo.) You just need strong finger tips.
I will send you a pic of how to do it.
8. Put on required clamps loosely before installing boots or joints.
Intall the rubber boot on the clamp flange first. Then slip on the large band clamp and crimp it on. Slip the assembly on the axle, small end first then slip on the newly greased CV joint making sure the groove is on the outer end. Attach new clip from the kit. Slide boot flange to the CV body and loose fit all 6 bolts. Now crimp on the small end band clamp. Repeat steps for other end of axle. Voila - new rebuilt axle ready to reinstall. Bonus - Paint the stripped axle and both boot clamp flanges with some flat black paint prior to reassembly. Make sure you mask off the ends ot the axle and the boot seat on the flange. Dont forget to assign an axle end and scibe an x on it. I chose my x to be the transaxle end.
I got a ton of pics. email me with what you need.
Squirt Bottle. Mineral Spirits, Brake Cleaner, MEK, or Acetone?
I used Simple Green in a small dishpan with stiff nylon brush and my fingers to work out the clumps of old grease.
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv6.jpg" target="_blank">CV bath</a>
2. Loctite on CV Boot Bolts
3. CV Boots & Bolts – replace
They arent CV BOOT bolts persay, they are CV Joint bolts. No need to replace them if they are ok. Just clean them up too and make sure to re-torque them to spec when reinstalling. (45lb/ft i believe)
4. Mark cv orientation before removal. Install with same orientation.
Very Helpful - Check this pic. Notice the groove in the CV body. that should always be the outside face or the end where the circlip goes.
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv1.jpg" target="_blank">CV joint assy</a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/Cv8.jpg" target="_blank">CV joint side view</a>
5. Sheet metal cutters, hex keys, sharp pick, and tin snips for removing and marking cv boots.Cv clamp tool or nail remover works. Circlip Pliers
I was able to cut off the old clamps with a pair of dykes. Crimp tool and Circlip pliers just make the job easier. Worth the money.
I regreased mine the old fashinoned way. I worked by hand just like packing a wheel bearing. Messy though - Have plenty of paper towels on hand.
7. Put WD-40 inside boot lips for easier installation
You can do this without WD-40. (I dont know if wd-40 and rubber make a good combo.) You just need strong finger tips.
I will send you a pic of how to do it.
8. Put on required clamps loosely before installing boots or joints.
Intall the rubber boot on the clamp flange first. Then slip on the large band clamp and crimp it on. Slip the assembly on the axle, small end first then slip on the newly greased CV joint making sure the groove is on the outer end. Attach new clip from the kit. Slide boot flange to the CV body and loose fit all 6 bolts. Now crimp on the small end band clamp. Repeat steps for other end of axle. Voila - new rebuilt axle ready to reinstall. Bonus - Paint the stripped axle and both boot clamp flanges with some flat black paint prior to reassembly. Make sure you mask off the ends ot the axle and the boot seat on the flange. Dont forget to assign an axle end and scibe an x on it. I chose my x to be the transaxle end.
I got a ton of pics. email me with what you need.
