sounds like you just upgraded your new coffee table to one with An extracto. Kiborts block sounds like a good dealr

 

Before removing my head studs, I searched for advice on the list. What I found was soak 'em in a penetrating lubricant. And that they will likely be frozen and be a pain. I didn't see anything in the WSM.

I've got to ask. Did I seriously screw this up by not doing it right? Did I miss a crutial set like heating the block in an oven?

Or is this a bit of a crap shoot? And I wasn't lucky this time.

I don't want to toast any more blocks.

 

Dan,

Think it is a crapshoot. You can't tell if there has been coolant seeping into a bolt hole without taking the head off first. Sort of a catch 22.

Dennis

 

And how would you heat a hole that deep in the block?

 

It's the block that needs heat. It expands faster and more than the steel stud.

I have removed so many e-z out I get a little throw-up in the back of my mouth when I see one.

You have committed a bolt extraction sin. Using an e-z out the tighter you turn it the more it expands the bolt making it tighter in the bore. OH NO.......

You started right. Drill out the stud and then use a helicoil if you damage the threads.

Now it is A LOT more work.

 

Your machinist should be able to get it out using a carbide bit and doing it in a milling machine.

 

 

Dan you can also still get those IRWIN stud extractors that i told you about earlier- they are not ez-out's They actcually look like a socket that goes over the bolt with a reverse twist to them so when you loosen the grab, also do drilling involved!

 

the stud is broken flush with the hole. nothing for it to grab onto. There is not bolt, it's a stud.

 

Yea - I know its a stud just so damn use to calling the damn things bolts:-) I was hoping that just a little bit of it was sticking up to get a hold of, or even some of that broken off extractor. I understand that it is pretty deep down in the hole where the STUD goes, but I have seen a few guys take a punch and hit the ez- out in a reverse direction in order to dislodge them from the bore that they were in. this was done on the reverse twist type- not shure how well it would work on square shank style. Best of luck and don't give up.

 

Dan,

Find one of these guy's in your area.

http://www.twincityedm.com/brokenbolts.htm


If you have never seen this process it is very cool....

Ed

 

I'm back.....

And I'm back in BUSINESS!!!!!



Big thanks to Brad and the Garage Sale post

Gotta get to the office now

 

No words of encouragement, no "atta boy," no "keep after it?"

Well, pressing on. Now it's much easier to to spend some time working her since I can see what's needed in the garage to finish(?)

After rebuilding the clutch master and slave, I bench bled system.

All looked good until I tried to see how this rod fit back in the slave. (It had fallen out as the boot was completely torn.)

With no old boot to see how it fit, I figured I must have a different version cause this just didnt look right. So I installed the master, and it dawned on me. I installed the boot backwards. There was plenty of room to remove the holding ring, insert the rod in the boot and reinstall onto the slave. Bullet dodged.

Now for the brake master....

 

Hi Dan,
I'm watching this thread for future reference....Thanks for documenting with pics.

 

Atta boy.