help!!! (stuck on center console wiring removal - rv)
#31
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If this is the case..." have a chevy ls1 that I am putting in it from a c5 corvette .." there is little point in using ANY of the existing wiring or central electric board. Just get some of the hotrod (painless) parts and wire the things you need. You already mentioned using aftermarket gauges and toggle switches. The Chevy is going to need different wiring so just go for it...
#32
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Jim, edelbrock just came out with a carburated kit for ls1 which would save me a ton when it comes to wiring. The only wiring I need to realy focus on is the lighting and speedo. I wanna just use a simple straight wiring set up. Maybe use decent size guage with an inline fuse from the lights before the firewall then from the switch to the battery put another inline fuse I'm sure that would work wouldn't it? As long as I can figure out a way to make sure the lights all work I'll be fine. If anyone can help me out with an idea of how to do that it would be great. What is the widest rim an tire combo I could put in the rear with out worrying about it rubbing the sides.
#34
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Look at some of the hotrod supply places and get a wiring kit suitable for that motor and the lighting config you have. You'll undoubtedly want basic gauges to work, like oil pressure and a temp gauge, probably want a tach too. Don't need no steenkin' sppedometer... do you? If so, you'll get to adapt something to the pulse sender on the diff housing. All of this takes wiring. You'll likely want to be able to operate the starter motor, with at least a key lock on one or two circuits in the car. Or will it be Nascar dash with a row of safety toggle levers on it?
Decide what you need as far as funtion, then either buy or fabricate wiring to support your decision.
Decide what you need as far as funtion, then either buy or fabricate wiring to support your decision.
#35
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Jim, edelbrock just came out with a carburated kit for ls1 which would save me a ton when it comes to wiring. The only wiring I need to realy focus on is the lighting and speedo. I wanna just use a simple straight wiring set up. Maybe use decent size guage with an inline fuse from the lights before the firewall then from the switch to the battery put another inline fuse I'm sure that would work wouldn't it? As long as I can figure out a way to make sure the lights all work I'll be fine. If anyone can help me out with an idea of how to do that it would be great. What is the widest rim an tire combo I could put in the rear with out worrying about it rubbing the sides.
#36
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OK " this guy has got *****. i think it is awesome. " If you can not swim jumping of the end of the dock may not scare you unless the water is much deeper than you thought... You can fit in 10x18 inch rims with 285 tires if you have the right offset.
#37
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Once it's over your head, it doesn't really matter how much deeper it is. Or is it too much when it gets up to my ankles... head-first?
Considering all the work being done to this car, I'm thinking that wiring won't be a major stumble.
I'm not so sure I'd like even a track car with the rear windows boarded up like that, but it's more room to put sponsor names right up where the TV cameras can see them.
Go for it!
Considering all the work being done to this car, I'm thinking that wiring won't be a major stumble.
I'm not so sure I'd like even a track car with the rear windows boarded up like that, but it's more room to put sponsor names right up where the TV cameras can see them.
Go for it!
#38
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Just a quick Google nets: http://www.hotrodwires.com/12Circuit.html
For about $200, a premade, fused, soldered, color-coded basic wiring package for the car itself. This is not the engine harness.
For about $200, a premade, fused, soldered, color-coded basic wiring package for the car itself. This is not the engine harness.
#39
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For this wiring package, how difficult would it be to use on my set up? Would it be an easy installation? And also it does have a high idle is there a way to decrease the rpms via the engine bay?