UPDATE!! My Shark died while driving and now no start:( HELP!!
#1
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Thread Starter
UPDATE!! My Shark died while driving and now no start:( HELP!!
Well, just before the Christmas break, I was leaving the parking lot at work and just as I was coming up to a stop sign the engine died. I tried to re-start it but nothing. The starter would spin but no ignition. I jumpered the fuel pump and it ran fine, so I tried to start it again and no go. I could smell fuel, so I was thinking ignition.
I had it towed back to the house (approx 2 hrs later). The driver wouldn't work with me and drop it in the garage, so he put it in front of the house. I decided to try and start it again and she fired right up. I drove it straight inside the garage. She hasn't started since I decided to to go with swapping the ignition relay with a known good one but still bad.
I'm not sure where to look next, any ideas??
I had it towed back to the house (approx 2 hrs later). The driver wouldn't work with me and drop it in the garage, so he put it in front of the house. I decided to try and start it again and she fired right up. I drove it straight inside the garage. She hasn't started since I decided to to go with swapping the ignition relay with a known good one but still bad.
I'm not sure where to look next, any ideas??
Last edited by Darien; 12-29-2007 at 08:24 PM.
#2
Using the K.I.S.S. criteria, I would replace the fuel filter and check/clean the contacts of the ground wire coming off the fuel pump. Since it worked with the jumper but not the known good relay, my first guess would be the electical contacts at the pump. A partially plugged filter could cause the intermittant no start. Last but not least the output of the pump should be checked if the simpler remedies don't help.
Dennis
Dennis
#4
Rennlist Member
I would suggest maybe checking your crank sensor and the fuel pump relay as Dennis mentions. I had a problem with my 86.5 a few years ago where it would only run with a jumper plugged across the aux contacts on a fuel pump relay that was known to be good. I was seeing 12 volts at the output to the pump but the integrity of the connection wasn't good enough to carry current. I ended up pinching the relay board's spade sockets for a tighter connection on the relay pins and have not had the problem since.
#5
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Thread Starter
Hi Dennis, I did swap the fuel pump relay and my fuel pressure with pump jumpered is correct.
This condition came out of the blue, It's been driving great. I'm curious if my LH or EZF is going out?
This condition came out of the blue, It's been driving great. I'm curious if my LH or EZF is going out?
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ben, would the crank sensor cause the engine to die while running?
I would suggest maybe checking your crank sensor and the fuel pump relay as Dennis mentions. I had a problem with my 86.5 a few years ago where it would only run with a jumper plugged across the aux contacts on a fuel pump relay that was known to be good. I was seeing 12 volts at the output to the pump but the integrity of the connection wasn't good enough to carry current. I ended up pinching the relay board's spade sockets for a tighter connection on the relay pins and have not had the problem since.
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#9
Rennlist Member
When i replaced my crank sensor because of a no-start condition, the insulation on the shielded cable was in really bad condition, and that was just from the heat in Iowa, the Vegas heat will be worse.
#12
Race Director
http://www.electronikrepair.com/page6.html
Darien
When I had no start problems Rich's pdf file helped SO much......drop him a note and he'll email it to ya..its got everything in it....I would send it to ya, but I' not at home...
Darien
When I had no start problems Rich's pdf file helped SO much......drop him a note and he'll email it to ya..its got everything in it....I would send it to ya, but I' not at home...
#13
Under the Lift
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If you have access to a Spanner, it will check the crank position sensor as well as the other likely suspects. Yes, a failure of this sensor will stop the car dead with no spark. See if you have spark - you can use a timing light or just pull spark plug and ground it against the head while cranking.
It is common in 928s for the crank position sensor plug the fracture and come apart - mine is tie-wrapped together at the moment. You know where this is, right? To get to the plug you have to pull the MAF and maybe the fuel dampener.
Form your description, you have fuel pressure at the rails. If you determine you do have spark, then another posibility is a short in the injector harness. A short in ANY of the injector leads will take out all the injectors. It is common for the leads to fray and short inside the injector plug boot. So despite fuel pressure and spark, you get nothing. Again, the Spanner will pulse the injectors. If you hear no clicks when testing with the Spanner, that would tend to support this possibility. A noid test light or just listening for the injector solenoids clicking when cranking the starter (use a dowel rod end held on an injector body) would help to determined if the injectors are firing.
If when you turn the ignition switch to the on position you hear the injectors clicking randomly/rapidly (they shouldn't click at all until the car is starting or running), that's one indication of LH failure.
It is common in 928s for the crank position sensor plug the fracture and come apart - mine is tie-wrapped together at the moment. You know where this is, right? To get to the plug you have to pull the MAF and maybe the fuel dampener.
Form your description, you have fuel pressure at the rails. If you determine you do have spark, then another posibility is a short in the injector harness. A short in ANY of the injector leads will take out all the injectors. It is common for the leads to fray and short inside the injector plug boot. So despite fuel pressure and spark, you get nothing. Again, the Spanner will pulse the injectors. If you hear no clicks when testing with the Spanner, that would tend to support this possibility. A noid test light or just listening for the injector solenoids clicking when cranking the starter (use a dowel rod end held on an injector body) would help to determined if the injectors are firing.
If when you turn the ignition switch to the on position you hear the injectors clicking randomly/rapidly (they shouldn't click at all until the car is starting or running), that's one indication of LH failure.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 12-26-2007 at 05:34 PM.
#14
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Thread Starter
Hi Bill, I'm not sure what a "spanner" is? With the SC installed, my crank sensor will be more difficult to access.
If the spanner will diagnose, any idea where I can find one?
If the spanner will diagnose, any idea where I can find one?
If you have access to a Spanner, it will check the crank position sensor as well as the other likely suspects. Yes, a failure of this sensor will stop the car dead with no spark. See if you have spark - you can use a timing light or just pull spark plug and ground it against the head while cranking.
It is common in 928s for the crank position sensor plug the fail and come apart - mine is tie- wrapped together at the moment. You know where this is, right? To get to the plug you have to pull the MAF and maybe the fuel dampener.
Form your description, you have fuel pressure at the rails. If you have spark, then another posibility is a short in the injector harness. A short in ANY of the injector leads will take out all the injectors. It is common for the leads to fray and short inside the injector plug boot. So despite fuel pressure and spark, you get nothing. Again, the Spanner will pulse the injectors. If you hear no clicks when testing with the Spanner, that would tend to support this possibility.
If when you turn the ignition switch to the on position you hear the injectors clicking randomly/rapidly (they shouldn't cklick at all until thr car is starting/running), that's one indication of LH failure.
It is common in 928s for the crank position sensor plug the fail and come apart - mine is tie- wrapped together at the moment. You know where this is, right? To get to the plug you have to pull the MAF and maybe the fuel dampener.
Form your description, you have fuel pressure at the rails. If you have spark, then another posibility is a short in the injector harness. A short in ANY of the injector leads will take out all the injectors. It is common for the leads to fray and short inside the injector plug boot. So despite fuel pressure and spark, you get nothing. Again, the Spanner will pulse the injectors. If you hear no clicks when testing with the Spanner, that would tend to support this possibility.
If when you turn the ignition switch to the on position you hear the injectors clicking randomly/rapidly (they shouldn't cklick at all until thr car is starting/running), that's one indication of LH failure.
#15
Under the Lift
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The Spanner is John Speake's diagnostic tool. Someone in your area has one. Tony, Bill Koenig maybe. Also, sorry I was editing my post as you replied, so I added a few more things.