water temperature gage
#1
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water temperature gage
Last night I was driving home when the water temperature gage dropped to zero.
My first sought was that I run out of water on the cooling circuit. But the inner heater system was still working. This meant There was water going through the inner radiators.
Wile I was looking for a place to stop hoping for the engine not to melt the gage turn back to the 80ºc.
Anyone with a similar problem?
Maybe the best would be just to replace the temperature sensor. Where is this one?
Thank you
My first sought was that I run out of water on the cooling circuit. But the inner heater system was still working. This meant There was water going through the inner radiators.
Wile I was looking for a place to stop hoping for the engine not to melt the gage turn back to the 80ºc.
Anyone with a similar problem?
Maybe the best would be just to replace the temperature sensor. Where is this one?
Thank you
#3
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Thank you Jim
Can you please tell me where this sensor is?
Once I'm preparing to do the Timing belt replacement I might change this sensor. I have a 92GTS.
Can you please tell me where this sensor is?
Once I'm preparing to do the Timing belt replacement I might change this sensor. I have a 92GTS.
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front of the engine on the thermostat cross over housing near the upper radiator hose. It it the one toward the driverside (left side) of the housing points straight up. Right next to the front fuel dampner close to the intake manifold. Easy to change.
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Miguel--
You can change the sensor easily. No need to wait for timing belt service. With the coolant cap secured and the engine cool, you'll have only a very small amount of coolant loss when you remove the old sensor. Have the new one prepared with thread sealant so it can be installed quickly. A small rag or towel under the work area will be sufficient to catch any drips of coolant.
The connections on the sensor are self-wiping when removed and replaced. Perhaps before you replace the sensor, remove and replace the connector a few times. That may be enough to improve the electrical connection and restore proper operation. The wire connector is secured on the sensor with a small wire 'bale', a roughly C-shaped wire spring. You'll want to loosen and maybe remove that part to allow the connector to slide off. Put another rag or towel around the connector as you remove the wire spring, as it may want to fly off on its own when released.
You can change the sensor easily. No need to wait for timing belt service. With the coolant cap secured and the engine cool, you'll have only a very small amount of coolant loss when you remove the old sensor. Have the new one prepared with thread sealant so it can be installed quickly. A small rag or towel under the work area will be sufficient to catch any drips of coolant.
The connections on the sensor are self-wiping when removed and replaced. Perhaps before you replace the sensor, remove and replace the connector a few times. That may be enough to improve the electrical connection and restore proper operation. The wire connector is secured on the sensor with a small wire 'bale', a roughly C-shaped wire spring. You'll want to loosen and maybe remove that part to allow the connector to slide off. Put another rag or towel around the connector as you remove the wire spring, as it may want to fly off on its own when released.
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Miguel,
I think Dr. Bob is thinking about the TEMP-II sensor. (LH/EZK)
The Temp-sensor for the "instrument gauge" and Informer " ! "...
Is this one...
The sensor has two functions the BLUE/GREEN wire (small spade connector) is a temp switch that closes when nearing an overheat condition. This supplies a ground to the "central informer" and you get the big red "!" light. The second part of this sensor drives the temp gauge in the instrument pod. This is the BLUE/YELLOW wire(larger spade connector). If you ground the BLUE/YELLOW wire with the ignition on (car does not have to be running) it should deflect the gauge full scale HOT. My sensor on a stone cold motor reads about 800 Ohms @ 65 deg F.(That is... one ohm meter lead to the larger sensor lug,no BL/YE gauge wire connected, and one ohm meter lead to ground)
Hope this helps...
I think Dr. Bob is thinking about the TEMP-II sensor. (LH/EZK)
The Temp-sensor for the "instrument gauge" and Informer " ! "...
Is this one...
The sensor has two functions the BLUE/GREEN wire (small spade connector) is a temp switch that closes when nearing an overheat condition. This supplies a ground to the "central informer" and you get the big red "!" light. The second part of this sensor drives the temp gauge in the instrument pod. This is the BLUE/YELLOW wire(larger spade connector). If you ground the BLUE/YELLOW wire with the ignition on (car does not have to be running) it should deflect the gauge full scale HOT. My sensor on a stone cold motor reads about 800 Ohms @ 65 deg F.(That is... one ohm meter lead to the larger sensor lug,no BL/YE gauge wire connected, and one ohm meter lead to ground)
Hope this helps...