Climate Control Lights
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From: Richmond, Virginia
Climate Control Lights
The heater/AC, center dash area does not light. The previous owner installed a CD and, when I was replacing the window switch, I noticed some unattached wires in the tunnel, specifically a 4-wire attachment yellow connector (similar to the window switch). Before I start reconnecting wires haphazardly, I was wondering if anyone had any advice.
Thanks.
79 928 49K
Thanks.
79 928 49K
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From: Hotlanta - NE of the Perimeter
Not sure about the ol buggers (Randy?)...but he newer models have a single light bulb in the center portion of the HVAC housing. There are fiber optic lines which run from the light bulb area to the switches and the fan speed ****.
On my 87 S4, the 4 wire connector feeds the AC pushbutton, the flap positioner motor brain, the AC relay internal to the HVAC head, and the internal temperature sensor.
There is a seperate 6 wire connector which feeds the rest of the HVAC stuff (including the light bulb previously mentioned).
hth-
On my 87 S4, the 4 wire connector feeds the AC pushbutton, the flap positioner motor brain, the AC relay internal to the HVAC head, and the internal temperature sensor.
There is a seperate 6 wire connector which feeds the rest of the HVAC stuff (including the light bulb previously mentioned).
hth-
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From: Insane Diego, California
Yes, very similar on the OB's Jay.
Look for a single bulb in the HVAC Control module. There are 3 or 4 fiber optic lines (resembling heavy fishing line) that lead from various orifices in the control module to slots in the slider controllers and fan control housing.
Make sure the lines are seated deeply within each end point for maximum illumination. Additionally, you can snip a wee bit off the ends at a 45 degree angle using wire cutters to get even better light transmission.
Bottom line - this lighting type provides only a slight glow to the control switches.
Look for a single bulb in the HVAC Control module. There are 3 or 4 fiber optic lines (resembling heavy fishing line) that lead from various orifices in the control module to slots in the slider controllers and fan control housing.
Make sure the lines are seated deeply within each end point for maximum illumination. Additionally, you can snip a wee bit off the ends at a 45 degree angle using wire cutters to get even better light transmission.
Bottom line - this lighting type provides only a slight glow to the control switches.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Colesville, MD
Randy,
Do you know if the fiber optic lines can be replaced in these units, a couple of mine lines broke and I'm kind of **** about having everything looking and operating correct. If it's not repairable I would try find a good used unit.
Do you know if the fiber optic lines can be replaced in these units, a couple of mine lines broke and I'm kind of **** about having everything looking and operating correct. If it's not repairable I would try find a good used unit.
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From: Insane Diego, California
Absolutely thay can be replaced Erik. It's real simple - they just slide into each end junction point.
Finding a short piece of fiber optic cable may be your biggest challenge. You only need something like 18" total to redo all of 'em.
I remember somebody offered pieces of fiber optic gratis over on the Rennlist Listserve awhile back, but can't recall the fellow's name. Perhaps search the archive over there to find out who it was, then send him an email.
Finding a short piece of fiber optic cable may be your biggest challenge. You only need something like 18" total to redo all of 'em.
I remember somebody offered pieces of fiber optic gratis over on the Rennlist Listserve awhile back, but can't recall the fellow's name. Perhaps search the archive over there to find out who it was, then send him an email.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Columbia, SC
For some fiber optic bits, check with your local custom audio/video installers. Most run structured cable that often has 2 fiber optic cables in the wire bundle. If they have run any of this cable there should be plenty of scraps around just for the asking. If you have trouble finding any email me and I will send you guys a few pieces.Another source would be any company installing fiber optic computer networks, again plenty of scrap availability. And one last source if you are really jonesing for some fiber would be to buy a Toslink cable from radio shack, best buy, etc and cut apart the cable to get to it's fiber optic innards (about 20 bucks)
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From: Las Vegas
I was the one that posted about the fiber cable. I swiped a bunch of scrap that they were wiring my pool with. Each strand is appz .7mm thick (just like the pencil lead) Light transmission is great!! ON the HVAC unit if you can get in there( its a PITA..without breaking tabs etc) you can just snip off the last mm or 2 of the cable on each swicth and it will brighten it up. The ends get dirty and scuffed up over time. The bulb is a single bulb Sylvania 74 (i think) PITA to get out as well. I did it by removing items on the HVAC unit itself, gears, wires etc. It was easier than trying to get at it from the front and prying the face plate off and breaking of the plastic tabs. While your in there get some 400 sandpaper and clean off all the slide contacts and check the operation of the conact switches at either end of the temps scale (full hot and full cold). Also a good time to replace or sliding swicthes as odds are, they are probably broke as well
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Attleboro, MA
I'm going through this on mine also. There are 4 fiber optic cables. The odd thing is that each cable is actually made up of mulitple small fibers bundled with a jacket surrounding them. I would suspect the "stranding" approach provides more flexibility for the sliders. The cables going to the slide ***** appear to molded into the buttons. I was not able to pull the cable out.
The job is not that easy in my book because everything in that control is fragil and does not tolerate "forcing". Even button removal is difficult....unless I'm missing something, I'm planning on drilling out the broken cable and splicing a new peice into whats left of the old cable using heat shrink tubing?? I'd love to know if there are any alternatives.
The job is not that easy in my book because everything in that control is fragil and does not tolerate "forcing". Even button removal is difficult....unless I'm missing something, I'm planning on drilling out the broken cable and splicing a new peice into whats left of the old cable using heat shrink tubing?? I'd love to know if there are any alternatives.
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From: Allentown, PA
John,
Jay posted an alternative of wiring in small bulbs to the various buttons instead of using a single bulb w fiber optics. I put his post below. How did this work out for you, Jay?
Just finished modifications to a test slider **** in the HVAC system -
much brighter than the old optic fiber.
Went to Radio Shack and looked around to see what they had (I live in a
small town place - pop. 25k). Found part number 272-1154 - smallest 12v
bulb they had in stock. (for info 12v/50 ma - solder connections).
Got out my dremel tool (I used the smallest burring tip in my kit - looks
like a dentists tool) and slightly hollowed out the area going into the
back of the switch. There is 'just' enough material there to permit this
and also make an area for the bulb and wiring.
Took the switch out and tested with my 12v source - VERY nice when
compared to the original optic fiber lighting. No noticable degradation
associated with the functionality of the switch.
Please note - this has NOT be installed permanantly - when I do, I will
probably secure the wires from the bulb using a micro tywrap.
I'll post my results when installation is complete.
Just thought I'd pass it on.
Jay
'87 S4 Auto
Jay posted an alternative of wiring in small bulbs to the various buttons instead of using a single bulb w fiber optics. I put his post below. How did this work out for you, Jay?
Just finished modifications to a test slider **** in the HVAC system -
much brighter than the old optic fiber.
Went to Radio Shack and looked around to see what they had (I live in a
small town place - pop. 25k). Found part number 272-1154 - smallest 12v
bulb they had in stock. (for info 12v/50 ma - solder connections).
Got out my dremel tool (I used the smallest burring tip in my kit - looks
like a dentists tool) and slightly hollowed out the area going into the
back of the switch. There is 'just' enough material there to permit this
and also make an area for the bulb and wiring.
Took the switch out and tested with my 12v source - VERY nice when
compared to the original optic fiber lighting. No noticable degradation
associated with the functionality of the switch.
Please note - this has NOT be installed permanantly - when I do, I will
probably secure the wires from the bulb using a micro tywrap.
I'll post my results when installation is complete.
Just thought I'd pass it on.
Jay
'87 S4 Auto
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From: Hotlanta - NE of the Perimeter
Jim-
I did try that approach at first. I ended up leaving the lightbulb burning for initially 4 hours to see if there would be any negative impact.
After four hours, the plastic switch housing was hot and exhibited signs of deformation. That being said - I scrapped the idea.
Back to the drawing board.
I did try that approach at first. I ended up leaving the lightbulb burning for initially 4 hours to see if there would be any negative impact.
After four hours, the plastic switch housing was hot and exhibited signs of deformation. That being said - I scrapped the idea.
Back to the drawing board.
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From: Allentown, PA
Thanks, Jay. That was initially surprising to me but then I thought about it and even though it's only 50mw, there's no place to dissipate the heat. I wonder if there's an LED small enough to fit? You'd probably have to put a resistor in series but that shouldn't be hard to do and you could limit the power inside the **** to around 15mw or so...might be low enough to avoid the heat issue. 'Course, you'd have to find some blue or green ones, not sure red would look too good. On second thought, gluing in some opticical cable is starting to sound easier 
Jim
Jim
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From: Richmond, Virginia
Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the advice. I plan to work on the car this weekend (tension timing belt, change oil, etc.) at which time I am going to hunt down the fiber optics leading to the bulb. It is quite messy in there so I would almost leave the bulb alone (after all, I know where they ***** are) rather than screwing something else up. But I will give it a try.
Again, thanks.
Again, thanks.
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From: Hotlanta - NE of the Perimeter
Jim -
Yeah....I thought about trying to reduce the heat load by reducing the current draw, and then got to thinking...wouldn't a 'fresh' end of fiber optical cable be easier (not to mention less of a PITA).
Bradster -
I hope you have a good weekend. Although the removal of the unit can be a pain...should you pursue this route - be sure to check the bulb first. I suspect your bulb has lived out its' useful lifetime warranty.
Yeah....I thought about trying to reduce the heat load by reducing the current draw, and then got to thinking...wouldn't a 'fresh' end of fiber optical cable be easier (not to mention less of a PITA).
Bradster -
I hope you have a good weekend. Although the removal of the unit can be a pain...should you pursue this route - be sure to check the bulb first. I suspect your bulb has lived out its' useful lifetime warranty.