Marker light delete in progress
12-17-2007, 09:10 PM
#16
Drifting
Nicole you do grind the welds flush but 99.99% of the time, some filler will be required. This is always an issue with people and I can understand why. Filler developed a bad reputation due to improper use. Prior to plastic filler, lead was the option. Lead required serious skill. Plastic filler OTOH drastically lowered the bar. So in the past it wasn't uncommon to see a car with filler thickness measurable in inches. Used properly, plastic filler is vastly superior to lead.
I used fiberglass cloth and some resin on the holes in my doors. I used filler over the fiberglass. Whatever you use, beware that shrinking can cause potential issues down the road. The paint has already cracked around one of the holes that I attempted to fill. If I can find a Tig welder, or get some practice with aluminum mig, I'm going to fill the holes properly next year.
I used fiberglass cloth and some resin on the holes in my doors. I used filler over the fiberglass. Whatever you use, beware that shrinking can cause potential issues down the road. The paint has already cracked around one of the holes that I attempted to fill. If I can find a Tig welder, or get some practice with aluminum mig, I'm going to fill the holes properly next year.
12-17-2007, 09:16 PM
#17
Just curious guys/gals; are those marker lights required by law in the U.S, or are they optional, perhaps in certain states, as some of you are deleting them ?
Incidently, when I was looking for a 928, an apparently nice 5-speed GTS was for sale in Spain, at a fairly low price as it needed to go quickly. Was tempted, but it was a U.S. import, and ultimately the marker lights put me off - they just seemed to ruin the clean lines of the 928's sides, especially when combined with the side indicators required in Europe.
Cheers,
Erling
Incidently, when I was looking for a 928, an apparently nice 5-speed GTS was for sale in Spain, at a fairly low price as it needed to go quickly. Was tempted, but it was a U.S. import, and ultimately the marker lights put me off - they just seemed to ruin the clean lines of the 928's sides, especially when combined with the side indicators required in Europe.
Cheers,
Erling
12-17-2007, 09:23 PM
#18
Three Wheelin'
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I think I would have just opted for a nice set of Euro fenders, instead of all of that filler.....?
Mmm......I just happen to have a set in the back yard-
--Russ
Mmm......I just happen to have a set in the back yard-
--Russ
12-17-2007, 09:29 PM
#19
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it's not so much the lights (that is part of it), it's (more of) the reflectors built into the markers.....
and, for those which were imported (grey market) it depended on who did the federalization.
My Euro was federalized with no front markers----
The stupid Fed's did the same thing with big trucks a few years back. reflective tape all the way down the side of the trailer, and tape on the backside of the tractor as well.
all to save 22 lives attributed to people running into the side of a big rig in the night, and in most of those cases, the car driver was drunk.
---Russ
and, for those which were imported (grey market) it depended on who did the federalization.
My Euro was federalized with no front markers----
The stupid Fed's did the same thing with big trucks a few years back. reflective tape all the way down the side of the trailer, and tape on the backside of the tractor as well.
all to save 22 lives attributed to people running into the side of a big rig in the night, and in most of those cases, the car driver was drunk.
---Russ
12-17-2007, 09:32 PM
#20
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the markers are US (federally) required, and the midships turn signal is not required (more and more manufacturers are installing them, even though the vehicle is for US sales).
---Russ
---Russ
12-17-2007, 09:43 PM
#21
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I called one of my friends who is a watch commander with the local sheriffs Office and ask him about that.
He laughed and said most cops cant tell a AR-15 from a M-16 and that only a **** **** like me would be worried about something like that.
But yes they are mandatory.
He laughed and said most cops cant tell a AR-15 from a M-16 and that only a **** **** like me would be worried about something like that.
But yes they are mandatory.
12-17-2007, 09:53 PM
#22
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I have never met anybody who does. They look like an afterthought, and it shows when you need to change a bulb.
Since not everybody is in the position to delete them, I try to offer at some relief with the clear lenses, and the long lasting LEDs.
On my own car I tinted the markers to be as close to the body color as possible, making them a lot less obvious. It's as close as I could get to deleting them.
Andrew Olson tinted his front markers red on his red car, and I've done a black tinting job on a pair of the lenses.
I leaned that unless you want the tint to be really, really dark, you get the longest lasting results by tinting the inside of the clear lenses, and the best look when combining the tinted lenses with black housings.
If you want to go really dark and need to tint on the outside, don't forget a layer of clearcoat, so the tint is protected from scuffs, chips, polish, and other bad influences...
Since not everybody is in the position to delete them, I try to offer at some relief with the clear lenses, and the long lasting LEDs.
On my own car I tinted the markers to be as close to the body color as possible, making them a lot less obvious. It's as close as I could get to deleting them.
Andrew Olson tinted his front markers red on his red car, and I've done a black tinting job on a pair of the lenses.
I leaned that unless you want the tint to be really, really dark, you get the longest lasting results by tinting the inside of the clear lenses, and the best look when combining the tinted lenses with black housings.
If you want to go really dark and need to tint on the outside, don't forget a layer of clearcoat, so the tint is protected from scuffs, chips, polish, and other bad influences...
12-17-2007, 10:03 PM
#23
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OK - for the record - I like the side markers - much better than I like the ROW side turn signal in fact. I think its the only USA specific change that is actually an improvement*. I understand I'm in the minority here but I consider them functional and aesthetically pleasing too - I do wish the front ones acted as a turn signals also (I will get to that...). Yes the implementation is a pain for bulb changes - agreed on that.
I also agree the red & amber don't go well with some colors - clashing - I think they go quite OK with black though.
* I have undone most of the others...
Alan
I also agree the red & amber don't go well with some colors - clashing - I think they go quite OK with black though.
* I have undone most of the others...
Alan
Last edited by Alan; 12-18-2007 at 10:12 AM.
12-17-2007, 10:04 PM
#24
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Hi blown 87, The adhesive can be used for almost any size repair, but there is also a time and place for it, like all materials. My wide body was assembled with this product as we use it with excellent results on just about everything. This material is STRONG and will last. For Nicole; welding/grinding is generally highly invasive on aluminum especially,but at our shop it is done occasionally . An example body-wise would be a quarterpanel replacement. For the side moulding holes I would recommend drilling 3 or 4 1/8" holes around each of the factory holes. Then apply the adhesive, pushing it in. This will create a mushroom on the inner side of the panel and a cross bond after the excess is removed on the outer panel. Alot of shops won't use it as it is expensive when compared to welding.
12-17-2007, 10:13 PM
#25
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Hi blown 87, The adhesive can be used for almost any size repair, but there is also a time and place for it, like all materials. My wide body was assembled with this product as we use it with excellent results on just about everything. This material is STRONG and will last. For Nicole; welding/grinding is generally highly invasive on aluminum especially,but at our shop it is done occasionally . An example body-wise would be a quarterpanel replacement. For the side moulding holes I would recommend drilling 3 or 4 1/8" holes around each of the factory holes. Then apply the adhesive, pushing it in. This will create a mushroom on the inner side of the panel and a cross bond after the excess is removed on the outer panel. Alot of shops won't use it as it is expensive when compared to welding.
Welding AL ain't cheap, $4,500 for the the water cooled Miller 250 and a sawbuck to the man that did the welding.
Mainly it was done as a test for both ways to do it on my car, for future reference on other projects.
I am fifty, so my guess is it will out last me, and if not we will just try something else.
I take it you run (own) a body shop?
12-18-2007, 01:37 AM
#26
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Kevin: Thanks for the explanation!
When you say "invasive", what exactly does that mean? In which way does the aluminum suffer from welding? Does it get brittle, or corrode more easily? Just trying to understand...
When you say "invasive", what exactly does that mean? In which way does the aluminum suffer from welding? Does it get brittle, or corrode more easily? Just trying to understand...
12-18-2007, 09:14 AM
#27
Nordschleife Master
after being welded I would use a flapper wheel to take down any high spots, a grinder is just too abrasive imo.
As well when welding aluminum esp something smaller/thinner like this, you should use spray transfer. Though this can be harder to get right.
I also would prefer to do the panel on the car to help prevent the panel from warping due to any heat, though getting the bent out wouldnt be too hard once done.
As well when welding aluminum esp something smaller/thinner like this, you should use spray transfer. Though this can be harder to get right.
I also would prefer to do the panel on the car to help prevent the panel from warping due to any heat, though getting the bent out wouldnt be too hard once done.
12-18-2007, 03:38 PM
#28
Drifting
OK - for the record - I like the side markers - much better than I like the ROW side turn signal in fact. I think its the only USA specific change that is actually an improvement*. I understand I'm in the minority here but I consider them functional and aesthetically pleasing too - I do wish the front ones acted as a turn signals also (I will get to that...). Yes the implementation is a pain for bulb changes - agreed on that.
I also agree the red & amber don't go well with some colors - clashing - I think they go quite OK with black though.
* I have undone most of the others...
Alan
I also agree the red & amber don't go well with some colors - clashing - I think they go quite OK with black though.
* I have undone most of the others...
Alan
