rixter

actually, #(^$)@_(*^@ asswipe who put the bolt on... I've broken 2, yes 2 breaker bars... gave up, pulled the rad and hit it with a 1/2 impact.. hopefully that will shock it into coming off, otherwise I'm looking at bringing home a 3/4 from work and trying that
I believe the last JERK to put it on used a 3/4 and tightened it as tight as he could

Ketchmi

Hey Rixter!

Even a quality 1/2" breaker bar is not enough for the crank bolt. We use a IR Titanium 1/2" with about 120psi behind it and that has always worked for us.

If you don't have one available, go to Harbor Freight and get one of their cheap 3/4" sets and a pipe to put on the end of the breaker bar. Old school technology but it works.

Vilhuer

Could be worse. Put that thick washer wrong way in and bolt will come loose. Local Porsche dealer mechanic did this mistake while back. Bent valves wasn't very far.

rixter

I was using a 2' breaker bar, with a 2' pipe on the end... both bars snapped at the nut connection with the socket.... my 1/2 impact does 250 ftlbs and it just sits there and hammers
I bet the bolt is on at 350 lbs or more

Mrmerlin

have you tried using some heat on the nut?
also spray it a few times after using heat with PB blaster or Kroil

dr bob

My 1/2" IR impact claims that kind of torque but it takes more air than will fit through the quick-disconnect fittings I use. I also have a 3/4 impact but need at least 1/2" hose and fittings to get close to it's capability. Stuff that the 3/4 won't budge does eventually give up to the 5' bar in the 3/4-drive adapter, with a deep impact socket. We did Ryan's GT motor with him pulling one way on a 5' bar through the engine stand arms, me pulling the other way on the 5' bar on the small end of the crank. A few pulls and it moved smoothly. It takes a really big bar and the 3/4" fittings sometimes. It's to the point where I don't even bother with the rattle gun on axles bolts or the crank nose bolt to break them loose.

Mako 928

Not tryin to sound like a wise guy but I just pulled the crank bolt off using a 3/4" along W/ a 5' pipe. It took alittle convincing but it did come off. Now I gotta get the top bolts off of the bell housing. Give the 5' pipe a try.

Bill Ball

My HF 3/4" ratchet/socket set with a 5' pipe over the end as an extension withstood what must have been 800+ ft-lbs to get one crank bolt off. A decent 3/4" breaker and 5' pipe should work and not break. 1/2" impacts usually only produce 200-250 ft-lbs.

Garth S

Perhaps not for the purist - but brace the breaker bar against some pieces of 2x6 on the floor after fitting it over the crank bolt ( make sure that your flywheel lock is in your pocket ) ... and hit the starter.

the flyin' scotsman

Brute force man.............aye

UKKid35

I use the starter motor every time now - works beautifully!

Bill Ball

How much torque does the starter generate?

I can see things flying off in dangerous trajectories.

rixter

well HF it is... they open at 9am and this should do I guess
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=5494

fraggle

I used my breaker bar, some wood and a hydralic jack from the bottom - let the weight of the car do all the work. It went easy.

blown 87

I work on a LOT of different makes of cars and with out a doubt the Honda's are the worst for getting crank bolts out the first time.

I bought a new 3/4 Snap-On impact just for them rated at 1,250 pounds of torque in reverse at 90 PSI, I run 150 at the shop.
Plus big fittings and air lines, to date I have removed exactly none of them for the first time with a impact.

When you break a Snap-On 3/4 inch drive socket, that sheit is tight.

I swear a 120 pound man with a impact and a five gallon pail of red locktite can put things on that are not going to come out with unless you use a lot of force.

It always takes my Snap-On 3/4 drive rachet with the five foot handle and sometimes a bar on it with me jumping up and down on the handle.
you can see the handle bend most of the time.