Jerry 87 928S4

Thanks to the help I received here I finally got my sound proofing started. I ended up buying a material called Brown Bread.

I put it in the doors, floor board and under the back seats. It really improved the speaker sound and reduced the noise on bumpy roads and reduced the tire noise. So far only a slight smell.

I plan on adding more to the back and possilbly wheel wheels.

Dave H.

keep us up to date on this, would you? i get a lot of rear tire noise, esp. in the rain.

how much does it cost? weigh? how do you apply it?

have a link for them?

Jerry 87 928S4

I researched a bunch of different kinds. I am not sure it is the best because I have nothing to compare it to but it works.

It is heavier than the regular dynamat that I saw at the stereo shop. It looks very similar and is supposed to have less smell. I know it costs less to.

It cost $90 for a medium size roll. It is is about the right amount to cover a 928 completely.

I got it at the link below and paid with paypal and it shipped in a couple of days. You can read the other types and pick what you want.

<A HREF="http://www.b-quiet.com/extreme.html" TARGET=_blank>

Sound Proofing</A>

It is easy to apply, I just heated it with a small heating fan - cold in Chicago, hehe and then cut it with a knife and pressed it in place.

I added more tonight. I put it behind the rear speakers ( ones behind the two front seats) and wow they sound better. I was going to put it along the entire back but found it was already insulated.

I also placed some along the center console under the carpet. Next I plan on putting it behind the wheel well liners. I have to replace the brake pads so I will do it then.

I think I will be done, hmm, now I know I will have to get that RMB, hehe.

Oh, here is a picture of what I have left.

Nicole

Would it make sense to replace the plastic sheeting between the door and the door panel with this kind of material? Or would this be too thick?

johnw

well I ordered a roll of this also, will post my results when I get and apply it

Jerry 87 928S4

I actually put it over the plastic sheeting. I covered everything, even the door handle,hehe. Good thing it was easy to cut out when I had the panel back on

I should have taken pictuers but I also replaced the driver side door arrestor and adjusted the lock on the passenger side so ran out of time and had to finish it up.

Now if I have a power lock problem or window issue I will have to cut it off but I am sure with a little heat it would not be too hard.

I noticed that there was a small piece of insulation inside the door attached to inside of the outer part - not sure it did much though.

dr bob

Nicole wrote:

&gt;&gt; Would it make sense to replace the plastic sheeting between the door and the door panel with this kind of material? Or would this be too thick?


Nicole--

I'd avoid replacing that plastic sheet. That's the only thing that keeps the rain that gets past the window seals from ruining your inner door panels.

Besides "absorbing" the sound in the doors by reducing the reflected sounds, this kind of material also reduces the resonant frequencies of the panels to which it is attached. Attach it to the largest most reflective and resonant panel-- that would be the outer door skin. You can cut sections and apply them between the ribs and braces.

Home Depot stores (and other home center places I'm sure) sell a similar adhesive-backed rubber membrane used to prevent ice dams in shingle roof installations. You can additionally use hard-pressed bats of fiberglass insulation, the stuff that is about an inch thick. Wrap it in a plastic sheet so water wont get to it, and glue it the rubber mat inside the door. Use it only where there is no interference with the window regulators.

You can also add sections of the mat to the back of the inner door panel itself. Just be aware of how the panel fits up to the door, and don't put any where it will keep the panel from fitting up correctly.

You and I have discussed (at Devek last August and on Rennlist) the option of adding insulation foam to the rear wheelwells. Your later S4 has plastic wheelwell liners in the rear that us early-car owners would appreciate.

----------------------

For the rest of us: You can add some insulating foam to cavities in the wheelwells. Tape a plastic trash bag into the cavity, and spray the foam into the bag. You can close the bag and move the foam around inside it while it hardens, forming it into the shape you need. If you need to cut this stuff, an old electric meat-carving knife works great. A small Sure-Form will help with any shaping. Use the bag so you can limit the mess, and also so you can pull the stuff out someday without leaving a sticky yellow mess in there.


I still have a lot of sound/noise management stuff to do to my car. While I appreciate that others want or need the sonic reinforcement available with the RMB's and such, I still like real quiet in the car. Insulation and padding is a lot cheaper than high-powered stereo gear needed to overcome the ambient noise floor in the car as it's delivered. Late S4 and GTS cars have lots of extra padding and matting installed from the factory, all to make the car an experience comparable to a big Merc autobahn cruiser as far as cabin noise.

Ford's luxo-cruisers have up to 2" of carpet padding installed in the cabin to stop noise transmission through the floors. The firewall panels are tar-papered pretty heavily for heat insulation as well, then padded and carpeted. Contrast that with our cars' no-padding carpet installations, where the rug sections glue directly to the floor panels and ribs. Ford also fills all the channels and pillars with foam to cut down on noise transmitted through them; if you live in an area where moisture condensation is not an issue, you can do this through the undercoating holes in the rocker sills and other strategic openings in the pillars. It all helps.

Jerry 87 928S4

dr bob, I went to Home Depot and other places and could not find anything I could use in my car - they kinda thought I was crazy. I saw some tar stuff but this is not like the Brown Paper I ended up using.

Also, I saw insulation on the inside of the door but it was minimal compared to what I did. Also, I kept the moisture barrier there by just covering it. This Brown Paper stuff is also moisture resistant.

Dave H.

exactly. i want my car to be like that old 928 commercial:

exterior shot: BWAAAHHHH
interior: shhhhh

scenes switching back and forth: BWAAAHHHH...shhhhh ...BWAAAHHHH...shhhhh ...BWAAAHHHH...shhhhh ...

you get the idea

the real way to go would be some kind of active noise cancellation...

John V

Jerry,

depending on what part of the country your in, Home Depot may or may not carry it. Its used mostly in cold climates. The product I think Dr. Bob is referring to should be in the roofing section and comes in rolls with adhesive back. Its called many different things but its purpose is to protect wood in areas where ice damming can occer. Its not an automotive related product. It goes on under the first several courses of shingles (over the eaves or anywhere water could get under shingles). It's usually called soemthing like ice and water membrane or ice damning membrane.

I've heard of many folks using this product in place of Dynamat and the results are very similar at much lower costs.

Best,

dr bob

Jerry wrote:

&gt;&gt; dr bob, I went to Home Depot and other places and could not find anything I could use in my car - they kinda thought I was crazy. I saw some tar stuff but this is not like the Brown Paper I ended up using.


Jerry:

I have seen the ice dam stuff in the Home Depot catalog, and need to order a roll I guess. Not too much problems with ice dams and the like where we live near Los Angeles. If it snowed there the last problem on my list would be roofing issues-- an inch of snow would absolutely cripple the city, and put body shops, insurance adjusters, and car dealers into big-time riches.

There in Chicago, roofing supply places might have it if the Home Depot store doesn't keep it in stock. Like Dynamat, this stuff is a rubber membrane maybe .150-.200 thick, with a peel-off-paper back over some pretty sticky adhesive already installed.


Like a lot of "projects," for me this is one for a day when there's not a whole lot else to do. Or better, it gets integrated into a weekend when I fix/reglue the leather edges at the top of the door panel, install the new speakers and wiring in the doors while the panels are out, drop the woofer bucket through the yet-to-be-fab'd replacement rear deck panel into the spare tire, and install the amps with all the wiring that's already laying under the luggage mat carpeting. That way I can add a layer or two of rubber mat on that big sounding panel that's over the gas tank, gearbox and rear muffler, in addition to the double layer of carpet pad that's already there. Just a casual project... I will get to it before the end of summer, I promise!

Thom1

Hi Guys,

I looked for the ice guard stuff at Home Depot and Lowes in Durham, NC. Only one Lowes store had it in stock. It was not called ice guard, but fulfilled the anti-ice damming role. Roofing material.

dr bob

Group:

Finally overcame my laziness thing and looked at the website for the "brown bread" product refereed to in the origiginal post. The metal foil facing on this stuff makes it a better choice than the ice dam stuff for sure. I suspect that when the project comes to a head this summer I'll be ordering a big roll of this stuff to line the cabin.

Thanks to Jerry for the tip and the source info!

Jerry 87 928S4

In deference to the Chevy Chase Movie - I thought the Dam Brown Bread would be better than the Dam Ice Stuff

fernando irazabal

what i did cost me $20.i went to junk yard and i pull the sound proffing from the back seat of bmw 5 series 89-96 only . they are foamy on one side and on the other it has a thick rubber mat.last summer i put it in the doors and what a difference.this summer i will do the rest of the car. i hope it helps


87 928 5speed