Door Window Trim Removal - lower exterior???
02-03-2003, 11:43 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Door Window Trim Removal - lower exterior???
Hi Sharks:
I have some oxidation bubbling up under the paint under the door exterior, lower, metal window trim. Does anyone know how to remove that piece? Does it just pry up and/or, and toward the center of the window? Does it have any special fasteners? Can I remove it from the outside? Are there special procedures to avoid damage to the paint and trim?
I looked at PET and the parts catalog. I could not find any fasteners. It looks like the rubber piece that seals the window is attached. It looks like the front angle piece must be removed first. Does the front piece just pry off?
Thanks in advance for any help.
I have some oxidation bubbling up under the paint under the door exterior, lower, metal window trim. Does anyone know how to remove that piece? Does it just pry up and/or, and toward the center of the window? Does it have any special fasteners? Can I remove it from the outside? Are there special procedures to avoid damage to the paint and trim?
I looked at PET and the parts catalog. I could not find any fasteners. It looks like the rubber piece that seals the window is attached. It looks like the front angle piece must be removed first. Does the front piece just pry off?
Thanks in advance for any help.
02-03-2003, 04:46 PM
#2
Pro
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 598
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thom: Just had a look at my 86.5 windows and doubt that you just pry that trim off. In the front there is a curved piece that overlays in order to make the corner transition. Also on my car the bottom piece that you refer to bends at the rear upwards to mate with the top piece. All in all, looks like a tough one to deal with.
I had the interior door panels off this summer for window and other cosmetic work. They are not too difficult to remove, just time consuming. There are some good write ups on the 928 maint tips site.
If I recall, I removed and replaced the outboard window rubber seal without too much difficulty. With it removed I believe you could get a good look at the trim piece you refer to see how it is anchored from the inside.
When removing the interior door panels the biggest problem I had was damage to the plastic anchors that have become old and brittle. Once broken they are next to impossible to replace.
Good luck
I had the interior door panels off this summer for window and other cosmetic work. They are not too difficult to remove, just time consuming. There are some good write ups on the 928 maint tips site.
If I recall, I removed and replaced the outboard window rubber seal without too much difficulty. With it removed I believe you could get a good look at the trim piece you refer to see how it is anchored from the inside.
When removing the interior door panels the biggest problem I had was damage to the plastic anchors that have become old and brittle. Once broken they are next to impossible to replace.
Good luck
02-03-2003, 04:50 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
I think I have inner door panel removal down to a science now. Takes about 15 minutes. Get yourself one of those button removal tools. Kragen or anywhere.
Don't worry about those buttons, 928International has loads of 'em. Better to break those then to damage the door panel itself. Avoid that at all costs.
Sorry, this is OT isn't it.......?????
Don't worry about those buttons, 928International has loads of 'em. Better to break those then to damage the door panel itself. Avoid that at all costs.
Sorry, this is OT isn't it.......?????
02-03-2003, 08:28 PM
#4
Pro
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 598
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bernie - Thom, sorry for the hijack, but Bernie how do you replace the button when the head is buried underneath the leather that is glued down????? Inquiring minds need to know!
02-03-2003, 09:37 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Hey Gordon,
The buttons get placed on the doorskin side, not the interior side.
The old ones can just be busted out of place and the new ones will more or less screw into the hole. No removal of vinyl / leather material is required to replace those buttons. Having said that, I do have a little grievance with the replacement buttons. They do not protrude as far as the original ones on my car and I have a little bitch of a time pressing the panel in far enough before they "POP". Jim? any ideas?
Damn, someone answer Thom's question........
Sorry mate
<img border="0" alt="[byebye]" title="" src="graemlins/wave.gif" />
The buttons get placed on the doorskin side, not the interior side.
The old ones can just be busted out of place and the new ones will more or less screw into the hole. No removal of vinyl / leather material is required to replace those buttons. Having said that, I do have a little grievance with the replacement buttons. They do not protrude as far as the original ones on my car and I have a little bitch of a time pressing the panel in far enough before they "POP". Jim? any ideas?
Damn, someone answer Thom's question........
Sorry mate
<img border="0" alt="[byebye]" title="" src="graemlins/wave.gif" />
02-05-2003, 12:18 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Gordon and Bernie:
Thanks for the help. This work does scare me a bit. Why would I want to pry on a few hundred dollars worth of perfectly good trim? It looks like there is a retainer for the front piece. Someone mentioned that it always breaks upon trim removal and cost $40. It may be possible to remove the trim from the outside. But, I would be more comfortable prying the inside edge with the door panel removed, and the edge visible.
As for the door panel and buttons, I have heard that body fiberglass works for repairs to the fiberboard. Buttons from a body-shop supply vendor might be suitable replacements. There is usually such a vendor in any fair sized town.
Does anyone else have advice on the trim removal?
<img border="0" alt="[jumper]" title="" src="graemlins/jumper.gif" />
Thanks for the help. This work does scare me a bit. Why would I want to pry on a few hundred dollars worth of perfectly good trim? It looks like there is a retainer for the front piece. Someone mentioned that it always breaks upon trim removal and cost $40. It may be possible to remove the trim from the outside. But, I would be more comfortable prying the inside edge with the door panel removed, and the edge visible.
As for the door panel and buttons, I have heard that body fiberglass works for repairs to the fiberboard. Buttons from a body-shop supply vendor might be suitable replacements. There is usually such a vendor in any fair sized town.
Does anyone else have advice on the trim removal?
<img border="0" alt="[jumper]" title="" src="graemlins/jumper.gif" />
Trending Topics
02-07-2003, 06:30 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,051
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi John,
Thanks for the pointer. It looks like a big, potentially costly job. Then, I get into grinding the rust to the shiny clean metal, primer, bondo, spot putty, paint, etc. Other WYITs are repainting the door panels and trim, potentially repairing panels with fiberglass, plus installing sound reduction iceguard roofing material.
Still thinking about this job. I may not get to it for a while.
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
Thanks for the pointer. It looks like a big, potentially costly job. Then, I get into grinding the rust to the shiny clean metal, primer, bondo, spot putty, paint, etc. Other WYITs are repainting the door panels and trim, potentially repairing panels with fiberglass, plus installing sound reduction iceguard roofing material.
Still thinking about this job. I may not get to it for a while.
<img border="0" alt="[burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />