docmirror

I've been thinking about when I pull my completely seized engine later this year. I know the clutch and PP are supposed to stay with the bell housing due to the embedded release arm mounted to the PP and teetering on the bellhousing.

So, since I can't get to all the PP bolts around the flywheel, how should I get the lump out, without removing the PP? Take the bellhousing with it sounds kinda drastic, but I don't have another solution. I know I can get the release arm off the ball stud and to the side, but I don't think it will move sufficiently down out of the way to clear the bellhousing and allow the clutch and PP to come with the engine, while leaving the bellhousing behind.

Hmmmmmmm?

Lizard928

I would just take the bellhousing with it.
undo and remove the shaft collar bolts and slide the collar onto the TT shaft.
Then remove the 4 bolts which mate the TT and bellhousing together, and you are ready to pull.

No need to even touch the clutch till it is out.

dr bob

Pull the pan and inspect. Pull the rod bearing caps (number them and mark for direction). You should be able to move the crank with the caps pried loose. We suspect a 2/6 bearing failure, right?

Someone who has BTDT should chime in on lifting the engine out the top with the bellhousing stil attached. Maybe with the radiator and condenser out it will come out the top.

Consider taking it out the bottom, if you have a lift to help you. One of those fancy "Carl F" overhead lift crossbar sling goodies carries the engine weight while you remove the crossmember. Lower the car so the engine and crossmember sits in a trolley or trans jack saddle. With torque tube unbolted, release the overhead sling and allow the engine weight to rest on the trolley. Raise the car off the engine as you pull the engine forward enough to get the end of the driveshaft clear of the bellhousing. I've seen pictures of this, also seen the whole driveline (engine/tube/trans) sitting on the floor that way at 928 Int'l. IIRC, Paul Moorodian in the Bay area used this method to swap a whole driveline between cars.

dr bob

TBF is supposedly a [very] rare phenomena on a 5-speed car, right? The 'push' that causes TBF in the automatic cars is replaced by "pull" in the stick cars, and only then when the clutch pedal is down. Meanwhile, I can run out of fingers on both hands counting 2/6 rod bearing failures on GT's and S4 5-speeds on casual track days. IIRC, most TBF motors can be turned again once the engine cools off. Based on statistics and this feeble memory of TBF symptoms, my betting nickel goes to 2/6 bearing failed. Kinda morbid wagering on somebody else's mode of disaster, though.

SwayBar

There is no need to do more than the following:

Remove the bell housing bolts, disconnect the collar for the torque tube shaft, and disconnect the clutch fork from the bell housing. When you pull the engine, the entire clutch is connected to the engine. Easy as pie!

worf928

PM 'Jean-Louis' - I believe that he has pulled an engine with the clutch in place and knows the ju-ju.

Ketchmi

Chances are if you put a long breaker bar on the crank bolt you will be able to turn the engine over enough to get the clutch off the normal way. You may have to work on it a bit but it will come loose. (I had to do this with George's engine...)

BC

I had to take out the 86 engine with two characteristics:

Pinch collar at front of TT was stripped.
Crank bolt would not move. At all.
nuts (may have) fell in engine- so I could not turn it over to get to the stripped TT collar bolt.

So Basically, I was kind of in your dilema with not being able to do it the normal way.

I took the entire engine TT Trans assembly down at once, and slowley inched the bell housing back from the engine until the short shaft came out.

ZEUS+

With clutch depressed rotate clamping sleeve to access bolts. Remove guide tube bolts. Cut pp fingers and remove fork, bearing, shaft and guide tube. Should open things up a bit.

Vilhuer

No need. They are already numbered from factory.

I would separate bellhousing from TT. Its doable without turning crank as long as either one of front clamp bolts is accessable. Once entire package is out its easier to take bellhousing away from block. Once its gone there is no need to turn the engine to dismantle it.

karl ruiter

As somebody mentioned you can pull the motor with the clutch installed. I'm pretty sure I did my last one that way. Before you take off the slave cylinder have someone press the clutch in whiile you spin the driveshaft. You need access to the pinch bolts. You can easily see the rear one through the access hole. So you can spin the shaft until you see it alighned and then loosen it. I think you will have to do the front one blind, though, so you will have to figure out the relative alignment of the front pinch bolt relative to the rear one. Once you get the motor part of the way out you may find that the stub shaft wants to catch on the bell housing. You can probabably just pull it out at that time. Or, if youpull the radiator and condensor I think you can just move the motor far enough forward so the stub clears the bell housing.

docmirror

Thanks guys, glad to hear it's been done before, and there are several ways to do it. I'll look at getting the pan off first, and see if I can loosen things up first down there. If not, the bellhousing can come with the lump.