Cam Chain Tensioner Pad Replacement
)
12-15-2007, 12:49 PM
#32
Should these be made out of a harder material?
12-26-2007, 03:56 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
Am I reading this right? The upper pads are $16 and the kit (both pads) is $110? WTF? Why is the fixed pad $94? Is the fixed pad not available and other way?
12-26-2007, 08:31 PM
#35
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Mike,
Let us all know when you find it and I will add it to my parts list.
Prior to finding the top & bottom for $105 the only way to get the bottom was the complete assembly which made $105 seem very very cheap.
Roger
Let us all know when you find it and I will add it to my parts list.
Prior to finding the top & bottom for $105 the only way to get the bottom was the complete assembly which made $105 seem very very cheap.
Roger
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
12-03-2008, 12:12 AM
#36
Rennlist Member
...bump...
I'm nearly ready to do this on my '87 (as I pulled the motor for headgasket issues). I helped with a disassembly of a similarly aged '87 about 6 months ago (mikeathome's) and the bottom bad had NO WEAR on it. It appears the chain rarely even touches it. I would vote that the top pad is enough. The grooves were super-deep in his motor and the thin center portion that formed through wear between each edge of links readily snapped off in our hands.
I'm nearly ready to do this on my '87 (as I pulled the motor for headgasket issues). I helped with a disassembly of a similarly aged '87 about 6 months ago (mikeathome's) and the bottom bad had NO WEAR on it. It appears the chain rarely even touches it. I would vote that the top pad is enough. The grooves were super-deep in his motor and the thin center portion that formed through wear between each edge of links readily snapped off in our hands.
12-03-2008, 01:20 AM
#37
Rennlist Member
When Roger and I did my powdercoating project, we only replaced the push side nylon pads of the tensioners. Easy job and as you said, there was no visible wear on the fixed side.
BTW no issues since the replacement...
BTW no issues since the replacement...
12-03-2008, 01:31 AM
#38
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Before you remove these pads stuff rags in the oil drain passages that lead down through the heads or you might lose a washer or bolt down into the crank when you remove the banjo fittings!
I did it, fortunately I had the oil pan off at the time so retrieving it was easy enough but if I hadn't already been deep into the motor mount oil pan job when the tensioner pads came in the mail it would have been a big pain in the *** or a big gamble....
I did it, fortunately I had the oil pan off at the time so retrieving it was easy enough but if I hadn't already been deep into the motor mount oil pan job when the tensioner pads came in the mail it would have been a big pain in the *** or a big gamble....
