Bad Rad
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From: Insane Diego, California
Bad Rad
It looks like my radiator in my OB '79C is exhibiting the classic side chamber delamination syndrome common with the OEM Behr radiator.
Can this be repaired by a radiator shop - I think I've always heard that once this defect shows up it is time for a new radiator.
Any suggestions on where to get a new one at a reasonable price. The general concensus seems to be that the Devek radiator is very nice, albiet a bit pricey. Anyone got a spare rad out there they would like to get rid of?
Any assistance greatly appreciated.
Can this be repaired by a radiator shop - I think I've always heard that once this defect shows up it is time for a new radiator.
Any suggestions on where to get a new one at a reasonable price. The general concensus seems to be that the Devek radiator is very nice, albiet a bit pricey. Anyone got a spare rad out there they would like to get rid of?
Any assistance greatly appreciated.
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From: Insane Diego, California
I stopped by good ol' Greg Nichols' site and got some good pointers:
Radiator Repair
Anyone with any additional info?
Radiator Repair
Anyone with any additional info?
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From: New Jersey
Hi Randy,
You could repair, but you might want to have a shop take off the end tanks to see what the rest of core looks like before you spend the money on the parts.
Might want to check out this one on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...108467&r=0&t=0
I know nothing about it, just passing on some info.
Good luck
You could repair, but you might want to have a shop take off the end tanks to see what the rest of core looks like before you spend the money on the parts.
Might want to check out this one on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...108467&r=0&t=0
I know nothing about it, just passing on some info.
Good luck
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From: Ball Ground, GA
I'm not sure what you mean by delamination. The usual problem is a leaky rubber seal between the plastic tank and the aluminum core, with an occasional cracked plastic tank.
Either the tank or the seal can be readily replaced by any good radiator shop.
Either the tank or the seal can be readily replaced by any good radiator shop.
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From: Insane Diego, California
Thanks for the ebay lead John - I should know before that auction ends if I need a whole new one.
Yeah, that's what I meant Wally - wrong terminology. Thanks for the info on replacing the side tank and seal. Hopefully that will be the ticket.
Yeah, that's what I meant Wally - wrong terminology. Thanks for the info on replacing the side tank and seal. Hopefully that will be the ticket.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
Randy, Over the last few years the PO of my car went through a couple of cycles of repair to the leaking radiator (at the plastic metal join). Each repair lasted roughly a year.
Six months into my ownership of the car the leak started up again, not much, just drips. When I took the car in it looked like the Mechanic would have had a nervous breakdown if I had asked to have it repaired again. So to fix it for good I had a shiny new OEM radiator fitted and everything has been fine since. Part cost was £500 ($750), can't remember the labour cost.
As this happened early in my 928 ownership I went for OEM parts. If I had to do this again I would still replace the rad as experience showed that the repairs didn't last. But I would opt for the Devek high capacity radiator. You get rid of the plastic/metal interface problem and get a one that will accomodate any engine mods that may come in the future.
One downside to putting big new parts in the engine bay is that they really show how much cleaning the rest needs!
Cheers
Dave
Six months into my ownership of the car the leak started up again, not much, just drips. When I took the car in it looked like the Mechanic would have had a nervous breakdown if I had asked to have it repaired again. So to fix it for good I had a shiny new OEM radiator fitted and everything has been fine since. Part cost was £500 ($750), can't remember the labour cost.
As this happened early in my 928 ownership I went for OEM parts. If I had to do this again I would still replace the rad as experience showed that the repairs didn't last. But I would opt for the Devek high capacity radiator. You get rid of the plastic/metal interface problem and get a one that will accomodate any engine mods that may come in the future.
One downside to putting big new parts in the engine bay is that they really show how much cleaning the rest needs!
Cheers
Dave
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Glasgow, Scotland, UK
Randy, One other thought - When I had my rad replaced it came as an integral unit with the oil cooler rad (at least thats what I think it was). The Devek one looks like water only, which may mean sourcing a seperate oil cooler. Extra $$?
Cheers
Dave
Cheers
Dave
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Attleboro, MA
Randy,
I just did this excersize about 2 months ago. The short story is that trying to repair the seals on my old (1981) radiator was a waste of time and money. The aluminum crimp tabs used to hold the seals in compression become brittle with age. If the tabs don't break removeing the tanks, they fatigue and don't clamp back down as tight as they should. Despite the radiators shops (and my) best efforts, we just couldn't get the seals to work well above 8 psi. (not the seals fault, but the tabs) More bad news, I tried to buy 3 different used rad's but insisted that they be pressure tested. They all failed! My radiator guy told me that if these units are left dry for any length of time, the seals are prone to failure. I'm sure other folks will disagree, but I found him to be right and just didn't want to take the chance.
The good news! I found brand new Behr radiators, with lifetime guarantee delivered to your door at fairly reasonable prices... $453 (manual trans), $597 (automatic). I wish I had gone this route from the start... instead it cost me an extra $100 messing around with old unit. Let me know if you want to go that route and I'll dig up the info.
John
I just did this excersize about 2 months ago. The short story is that trying to repair the seals on my old (1981) radiator was a waste of time and money. The aluminum crimp tabs used to hold the seals in compression become brittle with age. If the tabs don't break removeing the tanks, they fatigue and don't clamp back down as tight as they should. Despite the radiators shops (and my) best efforts, we just couldn't get the seals to work well above 8 psi. (not the seals fault, but the tabs) More bad news, I tried to buy 3 different used rad's but insisted that they be pressure tested. They all failed! My radiator guy told me that if these units are left dry for any length of time, the seals are prone to failure. I'm sure other folks will disagree, but I found him to be right and just didn't want to take the chance.
The good news! I found brand new Behr radiators, with lifetime guarantee delivered to your door at fairly reasonable prices... $453 (manual trans), $597 (automatic). I wish I had gone this route from the start... instead it cost me an extra $100 messing around with old unit. Let me know if you want to go that route and I'll dig up the info.
John
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 470
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From: Attleboro, MA
1-888-radiator
$457 - std
$597 - auto
they'll probably quote higher prices over the phone but inform them that these their own prices from radiator.com. Don't forget...free shipping and lifetime warranty.
John
John
$457 - std
$597 - auto
they'll probably quote higher prices over the phone but inform them that these their own prices from radiator.com. Don't forget...free shipping and lifetime warranty.
John
John
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From: Insane Diego, California
Thanks for all the great info Dave, John and John!
It sounds like the repair route is only a short-term fix and that I really need a new rad.
Anyone have this repair done successfully?
It sounds like the repair route is only a short-term fix and that I really need a new rad.
Anyone have this repair done successfully?
AutoX
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 11
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From: Berkeley
A couple of months ago my OEM radiator cracked at the junction between the plastic molding and the aluminum and purchased a new radiator from Devek, got it for under $700 during their Devek Day celebration. I installed the radiator myself and spent a lot of time cleaning all the junked that had accumulated around the radiator, you would be amazed what I found! When I took the radiator out of the box, I was amazed of the workmanship and beauty of the shinny all-aluminum radiator. The radiator is built for Devek by Ron Davis and are famous for their NASCAR, CART, IMSA, WoO, USAC, NHRA, and HDRA racing aluminum radiators. Any yes it does have build-in transmission and oil fittings. Now in my car, I open the hood many times just to marvel at its still lustrous brilliance. Check out George Suennen's web site on his radiator repair on his 928, there are also pictures of the radiator:
http://sis125.berkeley.edu/928/radiator.html
-Robert
1988 S4
http://sis125.berkeley.edu/928/radiator.html
-Robert
1988 S4