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Andrew's 91GT Engine Thread

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Old 10-29-2007 | 06:09 PM
  #46  
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Nearly all machine shops will have a bore gage set. So you could either go to a near by one and make a deal (case of beer, bottle or something, etc.) with one of the machinists to come over after work and measure the bores. It shouldn't take him more than 30 min to measure.
Old 10-30-2007 | 08:48 AM
  #47  
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Andrew, sorry I missed the pull party. Looks like you had plenty of help though.

What are the other "While Your At It" items on your list of things to do before the install?

IMHO, take your time, I'm sure your wife won't want you doing this again for some time. We only have 3-4 more weeks of hit and miss driving days remaining. If I were you I would keep that engine out until February and do everything you can think of to make it bulletproof since you are trying to hit the 500 rwhp objective.

Give me a call if you need anything ... talk to you soon.
Old 10-30-2007 | 09:13 AM
  #48  
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Hi Mark-
I've got a lot on my list. So far:

Non-Engine
All the AC O-rings and soft lines
Power steering lines
clutch blue hose
coolant resevoir - maybe
Clean the engine bay
Upper A-arm bushings
Steering rack busings

Engine
Oil pan gasket - re-install w/ sealant
Head Gasket
Cam seals
Valve train stuff - no clue on this...
Exhaust gaskets
Timimng belt
Water pump inspection (w/ replacement?)
Oil pump inspection
Front main seal?
Rear main seal inspection
Chain Tensioner pads

What am I missing?

Last edited by AO; 10-30-2007 at 03:24 PM.
Old 10-30-2007 | 09:29 AM
  #49  
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well, you're missing couth, class, about 60 IQ points and I really think you should improve your **** library...
Old 10-30-2007 | 09:35 AM
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You may consider:

piston rings
crank bearings
new rods
Old 10-30-2007 | 09:48 AM
  #51  
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When the guys at Thompson's measured my block, they used a periscope style guage, but it was different than what I've previously seen. It was shaped like an L and looked pretty old by the solid wood case it was in. The base of the L has a rollers on both ends. The measurement was taken between the two rollers. The rocked it back and forth both end to end and side to side to measure roundness. It took all of about 5 minutes to do all 5 cylinders on my engine.
Old 10-30-2007 | 10:13 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Can someone tell me the best way to measure the bore? I want to make sure I didn't balloon or otherwise change the cylinder.

I used my digital micrometer and it measured 99.6mm IIRC - same as the other cylinders.
Andrew, all you need to do to check for ballooning is to measure the bottom or middle of the bore, and compare it to the measurement at the top of the bore; they should be the same.

Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
You may consider:
...
new rods
I am sure there is no need for new rods.
Old 10-30-2007 | 10:49 AM
  #53  
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Chain tensioner pads
Old 10-30-2007 | 10:49 AM
  #54  
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motor mounts should be on a list somewhere....

jt
89 928 Turbo
Old 10-30-2007 | 11:55 AM
  #55  
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Thanks Big Dave... I'll put them on the list.

Motor mounts were done last year and replaced with sollid mounts, but I will certainly inspect them.
Old 10-30-2007 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by camboinc
... and I really think you should improve your **** library...
Got any good non-gay suggestions?
Old 10-30-2007 | 01:24 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Got any good non-gay suggestions?
With that restriction, now you can't ask Dennis or Stan.
Old 10-30-2007 | 02:47 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
Hi Mark-
I've got a lot on my list. So far:

Non-Engine
All the AC O-rings and soft lines
Power steering lines
clutch blue hose
coolant resevoir - maybe
Clean the engine bay

Engine
Oil pan gasket - re-install w/ sealant
Head Gasket
Cam seals
Valve train stuff - no clue on this...
Exhaust gaskets
Timing belt
Water pump inspection (w/ replacement?)
Oil pump inspection
Front main seal?
Rear main seal inspection
Chain Tensioner pads

What am I missing?
Ishihara-Johnson scaper, oil pan spacer, check the bearings, replace any suspect TB tensioner system components.
Old 10-30-2007 | 03:12 PM
  #59  
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Replace upper A-arm bushings. The upper A-arms are easily removable now that the motor is not in the way. Nearly impossible otherwise, although I have heard people have managed somehow.
Old 10-30-2007 | 03:23 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by killav
Replace upper A-arm bushings. The upper A-arms are easily removable now that the motor is not in the way. Nearly impossible otherwise, although I have heard people have managed somehow.
Awesome suggestion! The bushings are not terribly expesive IIRC, but are a royal PITA to replace because of the upper A-arm removal... but with the engine out, it's a no brainer! Added to the list.


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