Squeek Brakes.
#1
Squeek Brakes.
All of a sudden my brakes started squeeking.
All 4 of them squeek like mad!!!! Every time I pull up to a stop light, it sounds almost like metal on metal.
I've visualy check all 8 pads on my 83, they're practicaly all new. There is some wear, but not much. Not nearly enough to have metal on metal.
I think the pads are OEM, but I'm not sure. They came with the car.
Do the OEM pads squeek that much? It's driveing me nuts!
All 4 of them squeek like mad!!!! Every time I pull up to a stop light, it sounds almost like metal on metal.
I've visualy check all 8 pads on my 83, they're practicaly all new. There is some wear, but not much. Not nearly enough to have metal on metal.
I think the pads are OEM, but I'm not sure. They came with the car.
Do the OEM pads squeek that much? It's driveing me nuts!
#2
I don't know for sure if this applies to your model but, I just ordered GTS brakes from 928SP. They asked if I wanted the dampners. They fit inside the actual piston center and are stuck to the pad. When the caliper releases the dampner pulls the pad away further than without them. This supposedly prevents the squeal. I think they offer them for the older cars too, you might want to check it out. The stock brakes on my car squeal pretty bad too.
#3
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 7,970
Likes: 28
From: Brighton, MI
I've got the same irritation. I've even tried to used some of the "stop squeal" goop (twice) that the local auto parts store sells, but the brakes still sound like a tortured animal. Pads are less than 6 months old, and the squeal started again within a couple weeks of them being installed. The pads are OEM.
I refuse to accept that such a high-quality car has to live with crappy-sounding brakes. If anyone knows how to quiet the brakes (beside buying all new pads again), please let us know <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />
I refuse to accept that such a high-quality car has to live with crappy-sounding brakes. If anyone knows how to quiet the brakes (beside buying all new pads again), please let us know <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" />
#5
I am going to try the dampners from 928SP. You do not have to buy new pads to use these. They stick to the back of the pads you have.
Maybe I have justified it in my brain but the theory seems sound. Both of you guys have fairly new pads. Both have developed the squeal. If the pad rides on the rotor with just enough pressure you will glaze the pad. The glazed pad will squeal.
The dampner is supposed to pull the pad back further so you don't glaze the pads. This would eliminate the squeal.
Maybe I have justified it in my brain but the theory seems sound. Both of you guys have fairly new pads. Both have developed the squeal. If the pad rides on the rotor with just enough pressure you will glaze the pad. The glazed pad will squeal.
The dampner is supposed to pull the pad back further so you don't glaze the pads. This would eliminate the squeal.
#7
I put new pads on six weeks ago (about 700 miles ago) and they were fine for 3 weeks, now they are starting to loudly squeak again (not everytime but 50% of the time) and its driving me nuts... if a Tercel can brake with out squeaking you'd think for a 928 this should never be an issue. I too am waiting for the 'wise ones' to comment here. You should see the looks I get from other car drivers! Help us! <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" /> <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />
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#9
One of the first posts I read on the Renn was
about the dreaded pad squeal.
If the pads have been on for a while and you haven't been to abusive with the stop pedal...
How about:
1. Do you live in a damp part of the country, rain?
2. Puddles or long wet stretches from sprinkler systems watering the roads?
3. Use a car wash, high pressure water wash at the house? Maybe direct blasting the wheels with a garden hose while washing off the grime?
The recommended cure was -worked for me - as soon as possible after washing or hitting deep puddles was to 'use the brakes' till they get WARM/HOT.
Seems like you wipe the excess water off and evaporate the rest.
I don't think this will apply to sqealing, or squeeking after a pad change... refer to the anti-squeal backings or dabbing on some silicone lube/gels.
And if you are rough on the brakes and have glazed the pads/rotors try a little abrasive paper.
HTH <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
about the dreaded pad squeal.
If the pads have been on for a while and you haven't been to abusive with the stop pedal...
How about:
1. Do you live in a damp part of the country, rain?
2. Puddles or long wet stretches from sprinkler systems watering the roads?
3. Use a car wash, high pressure water wash at the house? Maybe direct blasting the wheels with a garden hose while washing off the grime?
The recommended cure was -worked for me - as soon as possible after washing or hitting deep puddles was to 'use the brakes' till they get WARM/HOT.
Seems like you wipe the excess water off and evaporate the rest.
I don't think this will apply to sqealing, or squeeking after a pad change... refer to the anti-squeal backings or dabbing on some silicone lube/gels.
And if you are rough on the brakes and have glazed the pads/rotors try a little abrasive paper.
HTH <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#10
The pad dampeners do help.
The type of pad that you are running makes a lot of difference.
The organic pads can be compared to rice pudding. There is a binder that holds grains of friction material in place. If you use the brake gently, the friction material slowly wears down, leaving the binder. The binder may be slightly rubbery when warm, and can cause squeal. If this is the case, the suggested cure is to "burnish" the pads.
Burnishing requires higher-than-normal heat. The best way to do this on the street is to find a relatively desterted road. Accelerate to the highest safe speed possible, and stop the car as quickly as possible without locking a wheel or getting into the ABS. Repeat three or four times. Drive home normally, and let the brakes cool completely.
This process supposedly melts the binder surface, and leaves the grains of friction material "standing proud", as our British friends would say.
Another trick that works well for me is to wash the brakes thoroughly with high-pressure water. Be sure to drive cautiously until the brakes are thoroughly dry. This keeps my brakes completely squeal-free.
The type of pad that you are running makes a lot of difference.
The organic pads can be compared to rice pudding. There is a binder that holds grains of friction material in place. If you use the brake gently, the friction material slowly wears down, leaving the binder. The binder may be slightly rubbery when warm, and can cause squeal. If this is the case, the suggested cure is to "burnish" the pads.
Burnishing requires higher-than-normal heat. The best way to do this on the street is to find a relatively desterted road. Accelerate to the highest safe speed possible, and stop the car as quickly as possible without locking a wheel or getting into the ABS. Repeat three or four times. Drive home normally, and let the brakes cool completely.
This process supposedly melts the binder surface, and leaves the grains of friction material "standing proud", as our British friends would say.
Another trick that works well for me is to wash the brakes thoroughly with high-pressure water. Be sure to drive cautiously until the brakes are thoroughly dry. This keeps my brakes completely squeal-free.
#11
Hi, Sharksters! First time caller, long time listener here:
In addition to what Randy and Wally suggested, breaking up the glaze on the rotors with emery paper will usually stop brake squeal. Chamfering the leading edge of each pad helps, too. Lastly, cleaning out the pad cavity and lubricating all pad-to-caliper interfaces with the appropriate high-temp grease or antiseize is part of my routine maintenance program.
I have a Volvo with Ate fixed rear calipers. Only full-metallic pads are available for these, so squeal is an ongoing issue - have a little sympathy for us Brick drivers with screaming brakes!
In addition to what Randy and Wally suggested, breaking up the glaze on the rotors with emery paper will usually stop brake squeal. Chamfering the leading edge of each pad helps, too. Lastly, cleaning out the pad cavity and lubricating all pad-to-caliper interfaces with the appropriate high-temp grease or antiseize is part of my routine maintenance program.
I have a Volvo with Ate fixed rear calipers. Only full-metallic pads are available for these, so squeal is an ongoing issue - have a little sympathy for us Brick drivers with screaming brakes!
#12
I recently upgraded my 83 S front brakes to S4 Calipers and 993 rotors using adapters (thanks Mark at 928 Int.). Loved the improved fade resistance, but they squealed like crazy almost a high pitched howl. The factory dampers helped some, but the thing that really solved it came from Jim at 928 International. He said to try chamfering the leading edge of the pads. So I put a nice 30 degree by ¾” chamfer on the leading edge and that got rid of 98 % of the squealing. Worked for me…..
Randall
Mission Viejo, CA
BITCN 83
Randall
Mission Viejo, CA
BITCN 83