Turn the starter around 180° cut a relief pocket into the alum cover . Would require using a reverse
rotation starter, BFD Then you would have a couple of inches more of pan floor depth

 

Yeah, this is a good idea. I touched on it above. I think that may be the most workable solution.

 

What about the oil pickup tube? Are you planning on extending/dropping it a bit too?

Also, what will happened when the MMs start to collapse a bit? The oil pan will touch the cross member as soon as there is the slightest amount of settling.

 

Your new avitar has an adjustable heim joint on the upper part of the hub carrier ( Nice ! )

 

I thought you would notice that first Joe. You and I were talking about it months ago, and it worked out well for me. I have to do a bit of looking around for a good set of large hole washers to space the actual hiem in or out ( in this case - forward or back) once I figure out how far in or out each end should be from the cone.

 

I think you should add a metal tab to the bottom of the pan, and a piece of thin spring copper on the crossmember wired to a dash indicator light so that if the motor mounts start to sag, it will complete the circuit and trigger the light. This will be connected to the central warning system, but it should be resettable, in case it's caused by a big bump. Where did I see a system like this before?

 

Oil pickup tube will be extended after I talk to whomever has done that before.

I have solid mounts, so they won't collapse too much. 30,000 miles? Who knows how many times I will have pulled the engine by then!

 

Waterjetting is the way to go for a 2D part. Even though I have CNCs and Wire EDMs I farms stuff like that out. If you can make a 2D CAD drawing and email it as a .dxf file, a waterjet guy would be able to make it easily. I have a slew of brackets and stuff I've had waterjetted for my 928, being able to draw in CAD allows some nice eye candy features. The most complex one was the girdle/spacer which was probably 300 or so bucks, it had alot of detail, something like 300 inches of cutting. Other bits include foot pedals, seat brackets, torque plates and a bunch of aluminum circles to replace the rubber interior plugs

Joe, I like your rear mount idea

 

Keep me in mind for one.

 

This took maybe day and half to do out of 8mm thick sheet. Used electric saw and drill to do rough cut, hand tools to get shape close to right and Dremel for final finnish.

 

Brendan - it that Carl's mini starter you have on there?

Alan

 

Pictures?

 

"Carl's Ministarter" used to be sold by a guy on ebay for a price that I am even afraid to mention here, for fear of banning from "competition with sponsored vendors" I bought two when that gentleman was selling them.

 

Do you know where I could download a program that would allow me to draw up a dxf file? I use emachineshop right now for 2d stuff, but I don't think I could draw this in there.

 

What aluminum type is used so it won't warp?