Okay, with the holidays now here for me at work, I will have less time to drive the shark. I official parked it for the time being to do the Hybrid swap. Top half of the old engine is out. I plan on chipping away for the next couple weeks until done. This will be a one man job so it may go slow. Though I did score a 2.5 ton pnuematic engine lift for $104 on clearance at PEPBOYS today! Should make things a little easier.

So here's the build list and what's done so far.
Finished:
1. Euro heads cleaned, intake and exhaust ported and gasket matched. New valve guides and seals. Valve seats lapped.
2. Intake runners extrude honed. I can't see a major difference but shop assures they will flow better now that they are smoother. They said it took maybe .002" off? It was a package deal with the head work, not convinced it was needed, but I figured...build it once.
3. Euro cam housings cleaned up, cams removed and inspected. Passenger side cam gear broken, so I need a replacement. Can't use the one from the old Engine since it's square tooth not round.
4. Rebuilt WUR ready. I now have 2 functioning WUR's available for trade or sale. Again figured, build it once, go as much new or rebuilt now, while things are apart.
5. '85 5.0L block cleaned up - oil pan studs installed with new gasket. new water pump installed. Waiting on new oil pump to arrive. Cylinders looked fine. Plan on changing rings prior to assembly.
6. Used MSDS Headers cleaned up, primed and painted. I have lined up a shop to do the exhaust system and weld in the "X". Header gaskets ready.
7. New lower Temp aftermarket thermostate, oring and gasket ready to go.
8. 3200cfm E-fan alredy installed.
9. MSD ignition installed with super coil.
10. New twist lock fuel lines and fittings (3AN). Need adaptor from 3AN to injectors and banjos.
11. New NGK6 plugs and Magnicore wires.
12. New distibutor cap and rotor.
13. High output fuel pump alredy installed.

What's left:
1. Order cometic head gaskets. Need to decide on thickness appropriate for Nitrous. I want to lower compression a tad to be on the safe side, but also don't want to have timing issues with the cam gears. Must research a little more before placing order.
2. Order cam housing gaskets as well as rest of top end gaskets for intake, water and oil system.
3. Dremmel out valve reliefs in piston tops.
4. Tap intake plenum for nitrous nozzle. Underneath directly below cold start injector.
5. Order new TB
6. Paint / Detail Cam Housings.
7. Order and install new twin disk clutch. (928MS?)
8. Torque down heads, install block, install cam towers and intake.
9. Install TB - start and drive off?

Many have quoted the Euro S Hybrid with thr 5.0L putting out around 340HP at the crank. I'm shooting for a tad more with headers, good exhaust and the little extra head and intake work. 360HP at the crank? I am also going to the max setting on the nitrous at 250RWHP. Should put me over the 500RWHP mark and around 600hp at the crank. Better get some wider tires...

I will go back and sort the pics I already have and take more as I go. This is my busiest time of year as my stores are already recieving tons of x-mas crap. We set the trees up last week... BaaHumbug. I will try to update at least once a week, assuming I have made some progress. My goal is to have a decent picture of how things work for anyone interested in doing a Hybrid in the future. I will also attemtp to give props to those who have helped out or those I have stolen ideas off, like the valve relief templates..

So here's the teaser pic.. who else but me would paint their headers YELLOW?

 

?????

 

16V valves with a Euro S cam will hit the top of the '85 32v pistons. Expanding the relief out to accomodate wider valves is nessessary. I got the templates from Mark Kibort. He seems to havemore Hybrid experience than any one.
Here they are with a couple pics of the piston work.

Edit: Big thanks to Greg Gray for the cut out template. Thanks to Mark for posting all three pics in another thread and answering several of my Hybrid questions.

 

I would use a dremmel to carve out the pistons on my lawn mower, not my 928 engine.

If the pistons are out of the motor (as they should be for a procedure like this) take them to a machine shop with the heads, have them measure everything up and cut them the right way.

If you were closer Todd could do the job. He still could, shipping wouldn't be that bad.

 

By Terra-PistrisI wasn't going to say anything but I think I should as this is now the second pic I have seen in a rather short time that is mine of my parts that someone is claiming to be theirs. The first pic with the 7cc marking which was done by my engineer, the second pic is not mine but I believe belongs to Mark Kibort?

The third pic I take is yours and I would make the comment that the crown of the piston is corroded and it should be checked carefully. What is the bore like from which it came?
While I don't think you need to acknowledge the owner of the pic, I definately don't think you should claim my work as your own. If you were in University doing such a thing you would be thrown out..

You should however take the advice of Airflite40 and Enzo and pay an engineering shop to cut the reliefs, it cost me $150 and have them cut the way Mark Kibort suggests.

Greg

 

++++++9999999999


DO NOT USE A DREMEL!

This is an area of critical precision.

It is very important that all 8 combustion chambers be identical down to ridiculous levels of precision. They must all have exactly the same volume and shape, especially for the high levels of combustion you're aiming for with the nitrous. No variation, no unevenness, no burrs, no roughness, no hack job!

This is machine-shop work. Bridgeport milling machine, carbide end-mills, coolant, etc, etc, and experience.

Rant over.

Good luck, can't wait to see the results!

 

The top of that piston does not look very sexy....no me gusta....

Good luck with the build!

EDIT: if you plan on changing the piston rings, then you will have the pistons out so get them cut the right way!!!

 

Very nice Terra-Pistris. I'm doing a S/C 5.0L hybrid.
Next week the heads should be done.

I'm going with the OEM head gaskets rather than cometic. -Proven to seal.
If your looking to drop C/R little more, I suggest having the machine shop widen (not deepen) the valve relief few cc more. The heads were port matched, did you polish the chamber also?
Tony

 

I did not claim any of the pics was mine or Mark's. I said I got the pics from Mark, not that he owned them or represented them as his work. You're reading too much into the thread. Here is the post he put them in
Click for other Hybrid thread
All three pics were posted by Mark in that thread, I merely carried all 3 of them forward figuring they would be of use to others. None are of mine, all of my pistons are still in the block at this point. Mark did not mention the pics were of his work, property or even design in the original thread.
Also note I specifically said I would try to update the threads with credit and props to those who helped. When I find pics on a public forum with out a copyright stamp and I have no way of knowing their origin, credit can not be given. A simple PM would have gotten you massive props in my book..and a ton if Hybrid questions.

I thought this was a community of sharing, not a group of recognition ******. I think someone needs a hug. I did not start this thread to show off what I know, that's obvious as 3 post in I am already getting some of the much needed advice I was looking for. It's not a look what I can do thing, it's a look what I am doing, help me and share it with others, thread. The Hybrid topic comes up over and over. Would be nice to have one thread to go to to get all the info, instead of the usual RTFM or SEARCH! responses new folks tend to get.


As for the pistons, I'm not concerned about the money to have a shop due the pistons, it's more about the turn around time. Heads took 2 months. I do want to do things correctly and only once. However if the cut outs are made slightly larger than needed, where is the harm? A miniscule difference in compression piston to piston? I understand if I go too things will grenade. I do appreciate the advice, that's why I'm posting the thread. I will seriously consider going with the shop. Thanks!
Mike