Drivers door handle broke
#1
Racer
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I went to open the door and it had a strange pop to it and then it wouldn't open but would from the inside.
Dose anyone have any tips or tricks on what I should do.
Has this happened to anyone else?
Will I need a new handle or will I be able to reconnect it?
Dose anyone have any tips or tricks on what I should do.
Has this happened to anyone else?
Will I need a new handle or will I be able to reconnect it?
#3
Craic Head
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Is the handle loose at one end (front or rear)? Mine went loose toward the back, and when I opened it up to see what was up, I found the nut had worked it's way off and fallen inside the door. I just put it back on and it works fine.
#4
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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Prepare to get angry. I'd put this repair in my top 5 most frustrating 928 experiences.
http://928.jorj7.com/wk-door-handle.html
http://928.jorj7.com/wk-door-handle.html
#5
Captain Obvious
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Mine is also broken and happened the same way. POP and then the back corner became loose. There is still a way to open it with the broken handle but pretty much I'm the only one that can on my car. Have to kind of push the broken corner slightly in and lift the handle at the same time. Unless it's doen jsu tright, the door will not open. Have a spare handle but haven't had the time to change it. Need to make time for the head gasket change first, then the handle.
#6
Under the Lift
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Prepare to get angry. I'd put this repair in my top 5 most frustrating 928 experiences.
http://928.jorj7.com/wk-door-handle.html
http://928.jorj7.com/wk-door-handle.html
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#8
Drifting
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Welcome to the club... It's pretty tight quarters, but it's really not that hard. Just remember that you need to roll the window up and down to get proper access. Also, you would want to invest in a magnet retrial tool. You will end up droping something in the door cavity.
I thought you might be interested in reading this web page:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=42802
To help others that might want to tackle this project I’ve compiled a few tips I’ve learned along the way. First and for most do some research. At the bottom are some pretty good links to help with that, but not everything was included in any one write-up
Optimum tools: 10 mm and 13 mm gear wrenches (one of my favorite Christmas presents this year), 4 mm & 5 mm Allen wrenches (preferable both long handled with a ball and the socket variety), 10 mm socket for a couple panel fasteners that don’t allow enough room for the gear wrench, both a small and large screw driver and a medium sized Phillips, a work light, flash light, extra long nosed pliers, and magnetic tool/part retriever.
In a nutshell… remove the door panel, loosen the lock mechanism, remove the anti-theft shield, remove the lock mechanism, R&R the internal handle-hinge mechanism (some loosen the lock cylinder, but I didn’t need to), reassemble in reserve order. There are plenty of write-ups on how to get the door panels off, but things got a little sketchy after that. The WSM weren’t much help either so here is my first attempt at giving back to the community.
After removing the panel, carefully disconnect the wire to the lock mechanism, then remove the two 4 mm Allen bolts on windowsill and two 5 MM Allen bolts in the jam connect to lock. Raise the window and loosen (but don’t remove) the 13 mm bolt that attaches the shield to the side crash bar (look up in there and you’ll see it). Then remove one shield screw on the windowsill and one in the door jam. Then hold the shield in one hand while you lower the window with the other and the shield just falls right out.
Now for the fun part… The lock mechanism is still connected to the handle hinge and key cylinder. Each one is a ball and socket joint. First I removed what’s left of the lock **** (2 Phillips screws and a little jiggling) along with the vertical shaft connected to the lock post (just pull the shaft towards you and it snaps out of the plastic holder, then down). The ball sockets are make of plastic and they just press out. The trick is getting leverage in the correct spot while peeking through the hole that used to contain the lock ****. This is where the large screw drive and long needle nose come in handy. I do recall using an Allen wrench as a mini pry bar through one of the holes in the door jam as well.
Once the electric lock is out of the way, the next couple steps aren’t too bad. Remove a couple 4 mm Allen bolts and a couple 10 mm bolts and replace the defective handle-hinge, just make sure you press on the socket coupling first and remember if you drop anything, either use you magnetic retriever or roll the window up and reach into the door cavity. Through out the process I ended up doing both several times.
Make sure the outside handle raises and lowers freely with the handle-hinge mechanism in place. Now more fun, the two other end of the ball socket couples need to be pressed into place. The nice thing is the need to be pushed on (as opposed to the pulling off we did earlier). Peek through the hole, Line them up, get the big screw drive on them and push. Once you have both sockets pushed on… It’s all down hill so grab a beer and celebrate!
Before you have too much beer, get the vertical post and the inside know reconfigured. The rest is very straightforward reassembly so grab another cold one and have at it. I would recommend you check your work at each step before moving to the next and hopefully you won’t have too many bonus parts after all is said and done.
Some have opted not to reinstall the theft shield, it only took a few extra minutes… just remember window down, insert into place, 2 screws… then window up for the 13 mm bolt. I hope this helps and following are the previously mention links along with a few more pictures.
http://sis125.berkeley.edu/928/wk-door-handle.html
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=42802
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=42802
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=42802
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=42802
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=42802
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=42802
I thought you might be interested in reading this web page:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=42802
To help others that might want to tackle this project I’ve compiled a few tips I’ve learned along the way. First and for most do some research. At the bottom are some pretty good links to help with that, but not everything was included in any one write-up
Optimum tools: 10 mm and 13 mm gear wrenches (one of my favorite Christmas presents this year), 4 mm & 5 mm Allen wrenches (preferable both long handled with a ball and the socket variety), 10 mm socket for a couple panel fasteners that don’t allow enough room for the gear wrench, both a small and large screw driver and a medium sized Phillips, a work light, flash light, extra long nosed pliers, and magnetic tool/part retriever.
In a nutshell… remove the door panel, loosen the lock mechanism, remove the anti-theft shield, remove the lock mechanism, R&R the internal handle-hinge mechanism (some loosen the lock cylinder, but I didn’t need to), reassemble in reserve order. There are plenty of write-ups on how to get the door panels off, but things got a little sketchy after that. The WSM weren’t much help either so here is my first attempt at giving back to the community.
After removing the panel, carefully disconnect the wire to the lock mechanism, then remove the two 4 mm Allen bolts on windowsill and two 5 MM Allen bolts in the jam connect to lock. Raise the window and loosen (but don’t remove) the 13 mm bolt that attaches the shield to the side crash bar (look up in there and you’ll see it). Then remove one shield screw on the windowsill and one in the door jam. Then hold the shield in one hand while you lower the window with the other and the shield just falls right out.
Now for the fun part… The lock mechanism is still connected to the handle hinge and key cylinder. Each one is a ball and socket joint. First I removed what’s left of the lock **** (2 Phillips screws and a little jiggling) along with the vertical shaft connected to the lock post (just pull the shaft towards you and it snaps out of the plastic holder, then down). The ball sockets are make of plastic and they just press out. The trick is getting leverage in the correct spot while peeking through the hole that used to contain the lock ****. This is where the large screw drive and long needle nose come in handy. I do recall using an Allen wrench as a mini pry bar through one of the holes in the door jam as well.
Once the electric lock is out of the way, the next couple steps aren’t too bad. Remove a couple 4 mm Allen bolts and a couple 10 mm bolts and replace the defective handle-hinge, just make sure you press on the socket coupling first and remember if you drop anything, either use you magnetic retriever or roll the window up and reach into the door cavity. Through out the process I ended up doing both several times.
Make sure the outside handle raises and lowers freely with the handle-hinge mechanism in place. Now more fun, the two other end of the ball socket couples need to be pressed into place. The nice thing is the need to be pushed on (as opposed to the pulling off we did earlier). Peek through the hole, Line them up, get the big screw drive on them and push. Once you have both sockets pushed on… It’s all down hill so grab a beer and celebrate!
Before you have too much beer, get the vertical post and the inside know reconfigured. The rest is very straightforward reassembly so grab another cold one and have at it. I would recommend you check your work at each step before moving to the next and hopefully you won’t have too many bonus parts after all is said and done.
Some have opted not to reinstall the theft shield, it only took a few extra minutes… just remember window down, insert into place, 2 screws… then window up for the 13 mm bolt. I hope this helps and following are the previously mention links along with a few more pictures.
http://sis125.berkeley.edu/928/wk-door-handle.html
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=42802
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=42802
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=42802
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=42802
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=42802
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...ferrerid=42802
#9
Racer
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clarkston Mi
Posts: 474
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Thank you Kurt and everyone for your help and input I should get a look at it this weekend, until then I will just keep the window down and open it from the inside
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