Yeah, I drilled the pins. With a tiny drill bit, held firm, I was able to get the bit to start and drill out the pin. Maybe they will punch in, but I couldn't achieve that.

I haven't repinned the hatch lock yet. Locksmiths are supposed to have various sized pins for this purpose. On the door locks, the pins are hidden so I used a pop rivet and cut it off with my Dremel cutting wheel as shown here/ THIS IS A DOOR LOCK that was acting up in the same manner.

 

Is that a rear hatch lock? Looks like a door lock. Mine didn't look anything like it. Jason

 

Hey Bill thanks for posting this, I have a drivers door lock that I need to fix one of these days...
Great info, this will help.

Dave K

 

Right, the last sentence says "On the door lock..." I hadn't gotten to the pin for the hatch lock yet. I just did this today....

Here is what I did for the hatch lock pin. I used a small brass wood screw that was just the right size. I ground off some of the screw tip as you don't want it to go in real far or it will prevent the lock tumbler from turning. Screwed it in tight and cut it off with the Dremel. Minor touch-up with semi-gloss black paint. It would be preferable to get a lock pin, but this seems like it will work fine.

 

Bill, thanks for taking the time, and for taking the photos!
This post's a keeper!!

 

Your right Bill I didn't catch that. Great idea with the screw. I'm going to retackle mine now thanks to the info in your post. Thanks again for all the documentation and pics. Jason

 

After doing both door and hatch locks on my 86.5, very little of what I see here matches the rear hatch lock and alarm. Of course with so many faulty incursions by PO, I shouldn't be surprised. For the small fee that they charge, I found that sending off the actual locks to 928 Int'l made much more sense. Their turn around time was also excellent. FWIW.

 

GT:

I didn't know there were model year differences. 928 Intl only shows one part without a model year breakout.

I would have sent it off too, but I don't think 928 Intl has any hatch alarm locks to work with at the moment. I would have had to have them rekey a new lock. I think they are $400.

Anyway, I will report that both locks are now reinstalled working perfectly!

 

Bill I just want to say thank you again. Your tutorial is first rate. I don't think it could be done any better. After reading and printing your post I tore in to my lock and rekeyed it and saved myself at least 75.00 for a used lock and another 40.00 to have it rekeyed. With just buying the car that money could be well spent in other areas. I do have one further question for you. How do I adjust the rear hatch so it won't open by pulling on it. I was told that it needs to be adjusted. Thanks again, Jason

 

Jason:

I'm not sure if that can be remedied with an adjustment. If it pops by just pulling on it, the latch is probably worn out. It could the the upper tongue, which I have replaced, as shown here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ghlight=tongue

 

..

 

There are small Phillips head screws, mine were covered over with tape, which allow the "cover" to be removed.

Once opened, check to see that the "Tongue Cam" on the lock is positioned above the plastic tongue. When I first assembled mine incorrectly (tongue cam was behind plastic tongue) mine had the same symptoms as yours - lock turns but doesn't activate anything.

While you have it apart, you might was to reinforce the outer housing with JB Weld or equivalent. The housings are prone to crack.

 

..

 

As I recall, the trim on the hatch is held in place with 2 piece plastic rivets. Pull the head with the attached pin, and then the receptacle.