docmirror

One more vote for DIY work here. If you're ordering parts for someone else to work with, it's gonna get ugly fast. Start with the clutch, get ATE Super Blue fluid, and do the process exactly the way it's described. Don't skip stuff, or it won't work right. The cooling issue should be looked at entirely. Maybe a t-stat will help - but I doubt it.

bronto

Who is the salvage yard in Houston?

marton

what JB said
&
What JB said


If all the other instruments work OK then I would guess that something got disconnected somewhere? If the other instruments do not work OK then I would look for a bad earth in the instrument pod.

Somehow I have the feeling you were in this forum before?
For oil I would say anything graded between 15/40 & 15/60 - if you plan to change every 3,000 miles then any brand, if you plan to change less often then use a well known brand name and top quality = high price
I believe there is something called Amsoil or similar that lasts forever; never runs out and also restores your teeth - ask for Mark, he is the missionary.

I wish you every succes & lots of fun

Marton

JHowell37

No Amsoil doesn't restore your teeth. It gives you better, longer lasting erections.

marton

But, I have to go to work Monday to Friday

Marton

layton108

yes i work on all my own cars but ive never worked on a porsche and ive always loved the 928 so im excited about where this project is going to go but i guess only time will tell.

linderpat

post a large pic of that avatar....that's spectacular....

leperboy

It's not hard to do, and there is plenty of support from this group. The write-ups available from here are far better and more complete than write-ups from any other car group I've seen. If you've worked on cars, then you can do your own maintenance and repairs on a 928. Just dive in.

Matt

layton108

That's what I plan on doing I was referred here from another forum and so far all I can say is the people here really seem to know what they are talking about and thats very helpful. Like i said i've never worked on a porsche before but have a basic understanding of what i'm going to be doing and well i guess i'l go from there and update this thread on the progress possibly get more input and hopefully things work out fine.

Today I bought the Rislone engine treatment and also the b-12 Chemtool. The only question I have is for the Rislone, because it goes into the crankcase should I just do an oil change and then add that? or add it then do an oil change?

docmirror

Risolone is similar to the Marvel Mystery oil debate. They are simply light weight penetrating HCs like Naptha, and turpentine. Not surprisingly, they work to unstick rings, and valves that won't completely close. This may, or may not help with smoke or oil consumption, depending on what the failure mode is. If you have a stuck oil control ring, expect Risolone to help after the car is run hot and hard for a while.

When asking questions about a third party product, it would be best if you check with the mfg online and read the instructions. MMO is designed to be left in the crankcase indefinantly. I believe, after a while the light weight of the product causes most of it to boil off harmlessly. It has a fairly high vapor pressure. Risolone is likely the same. I would use new oil anyway if you don't know when it was last changed.

There's lots of debate on the Risolone/MMO snake oil front. I have personally seen it work on older engines that have sat for a while. Many people consider it a useless, and potentially harmful additive, and at least a waste of money.

YMMV, I doubt it will do any harm. Keep us informed.

layton108

ok so i used them both just now let the car run for about 15 minutes and got some pretty good results the ticking is almost non existent you can still hear it but its not as bad as before where you could stand like 10 feet away from the engine and hear it. i noticed however that since i used them both im hearing a hissing sound now. like a sucking sound from the intake. Maybe this has to do with the fact that the previous owner had ziptied part of the airbox and has red duct tape on various parts of the intake tubes. im sure the airbox isnt that expensive to replace along with the intake tubes but my next idea would be to replace the sparkplugs and wires maybe that will eliminate the ticking all together because when i listen closely the ticking is only on the left side of the intake manifold

soontobered84

928Rus has a very nice sparkplug wire replacement set for less than $100 (?) You simply unscrew your current ends, test for continuity, and screw them back on the new wires.
The sucking sound you hear could be either a vacuum leak or the sound of money leaving your pocket!!

I love these cars!!

Good Luck!

docmirror

You may have a spark plug wire that is shorting to ground. After dark, go outside when it is completely dark, and start the car. Don't turn on any lights, and look along the ignition wires for small sparks. If you don't find any, then the noise may be coming from somewhere else. As for the hissing. Just inspect the whole intake path for leaks.

There is a good vacuum leak test that you can do with a can of carb cleaner, but it would be best not to do that if you think you have a wire fault, as carb cleaner is quite flammable(ask me how I know). All intake parts including fancy colored intake tubes can be bought from rennlister ROG100 at 928sRUS. I put them on my car, and they do dress things up very nicely. He can also provide you with a new airbox as needed.

layton108

i also noticed one other thing when i was looking under the car to inspect to see if it had an exhaust leak i noticed a humming sound from the right rear im assuming thats the fuel pump however i didnt have a flash light and it was dark out side could that be an issue thats causing the ticking problem?

Airflite40

Yes the fuel pump is in the rear, pass side, right below the fuel tank.