Oil leak.....HELP !!!!
12-04-2001, 09:03 PM
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Oil leak.....HELP !!!!
OK here's my problem...I have oil drippping down from the bottom corner of the Cam housing..Where the cam housing meets the head..Of course it leaks onto the exhaust manifold..It is coming out of the bottom left rear corner of the engine...I tried to tighten the bolt with NO success...SO it looks like I get a winter project...OH BOY..I need to replace the Cam gasket....Can someone PLEASE tell me If they have done this before and what I'm getting myself into...I know I need to torque the bolts back down but they are allen heads ...Do they make a torque wrench that will fit a allen wrench AND fit into the SMALL area I have to work in...Fortunately I have the Porsche 9 volume manual set...But this looks tough...THANKS
Dave
79 Oak green metallic 5 speed
Dave
79 Oak green metallic 5 speed
12-04-2001, 10:06 PM
#2
Olias,
If no one responds... Check the Greg Nichols site: http;//nichols.nu/tips.htm
Should cover you.
I think Moss posted something on this and finally, use the search function at the top of the page.
HTH, Have FUN...
John S. 82'Weissach Auto., 'Pattycakes'
If no one responds... Check the Greg Nichols site: http;//nichols.nu/tips.htm
Should cover you.
I think Moss posted something on this and finally, use the search function at the top of the page.
HTH, Have FUN...
John S. 82'Weissach Auto., 'Pattycakes'
12-04-2001, 10:16 PM
#3
Before you yank the cam housing off be sure
it's not leaking from the cam seal in front
or the cam cover in rear, both of these leaks
tend to drip right down that seam where the
gasket is between the cam tower and head.
it's not leaking from the cam seal in front
or the cam cover in rear, both of these leaks
tend to drip right down that seam where the
gasket is between the cam tower and head.
12-04-2001, 10:26 PM
#4
Olias,
Forgot, sorry... I think you will find a pretty comprehensive procedure in a number of places but its going to be under the heading of T belt replacement. After checking it out you might just dive in and do the belts,rollers, seals,waterpump...From what I've been reading of 'bobbmw...'s post there are Pro (sic) wrenches out there with skills as limited - or worse - as ours who charge an easy $1200 to $1700.. then say they are sorry for smoking a set of incredibly expensive heads like a cheap cigar. Take a look it can't hurt. In any case thats where you should find the Cam tower seal/gasket replacement.
Again, HTH/LOL
John S. & Pattycakes
Forgot, sorry... I think you will find a pretty comprehensive procedure in a number of places but its going to be under the heading of T belt replacement. After checking it out you might just dive in and do the belts,rollers, seals,waterpump...From what I've been reading of 'bobbmw...'s post there are Pro (sic) wrenches out there with skills as limited - or worse - as ours who charge an easy $1200 to $1700.. then say they are sorry for smoking a set of incredibly expensive heads like a cheap cigar. Take a look it can't hurt. In any case thats where you should find the Cam tower seal/gasket replacement.
Again, HTH/LOL
John S. & Pattycakes
12-04-2001, 10:33 PM
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A couple pointers:
You will need to buy a long hex wrench with a square drive attachment (I don't recall the mm size).
Be careful inserting the hex wrench into the bolt heads - give the wrench a good tap with a hammer to seat the wrench into the bolt - otherwise it's real easy to strip those heads out. You don't want to have to go at those bolt heads with a cutting wheel through that small access hole.
Make sure you get the proper gasket set - the cam tower mating surface configuration changed somewhere in mid '79.
Be careful when you remove the rubber plugs that seal the hex bolt access openings - they will be brittle and can easily break apart and fall into the top of the engine. Order new ones, since these ones will be toast after removal.
You will need to buy a long hex wrench with a square drive attachment (I don't recall the mm size).
Be careful inserting the hex wrench into the bolt heads - give the wrench a good tap with a hammer to seat the wrench into the bolt - otherwise it's real easy to strip those heads out. You don't want to have to go at those bolt heads with a cutting wheel through that small access hole.
Make sure you get the proper gasket set - the cam tower mating surface configuration changed somewhere in mid '79.
Be careful when you remove the rubber plugs that seal the hex bolt access openings - they will be brittle and can easily break apart and fall into the top of the engine. Order new ones, since these ones will be toast after removal.
12-04-2001, 10:33 PM
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Olias-
When I swapped my cams back tot he factory ones earlier this summer I ran intot he same problem regarding the access of the bolts and the length of the hex head.
I ended up making my own wrench by getting the appropriate hex socket and hex bit. Then using a Dremel tool, cut off enough of the hex bit to leave just enough to make full contact with the socket. Using JB weld, I afixed the two together into one piece.
hth-
When I swapped my cams back tot he factory ones earlier this summer I ran intot he same problem regarding the access of the bolts and the length of the hex head.
I ended up making my own wrench by getting the appropriate hex socket and hex bit. Then using a Dremel tool, cut off enough of the hex bit to leave just enough to make full contact with the socket. Using JB weld, I afixed the two together into one piece.
hth-
12-05-2001, 03:21 AM
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Hi Olias,
You can get a set of allen wrenches with a 3/8 inch drive. Then you can torque em' normally. However, the torque setting is so low that snug should do. Your torque wrench will barely register that low. Try some 1/4 or 3/8 inch drive extensions, universals, and ratchet to get into tight spots.
HTH
You can get a set of allen wrenches with a 3/8 inch drive. Then you can torque em' normally. However, the torque setting is so low that snug should do. Your torque wrench will barely register that low. Try some 1/4 or 3/8 inch drive extensions, universals, and ratchet to get into tight spots.
HTH
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12-13-2001, 08:47 PM
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Ok ...I let the car sit for a few days ...Then I un-screwed the last bolt out of the cam tower right above where it was leaking...Tighten it back up started it and it STILL leaked...A couple days later started it up to work on it again and no leak...I have driven it about 50 miles and still no leak..I don't know what to think...Any ideas.....THANKS
Dave
79 Oak green metallic 5 speed
Dave
79 Oak green metallic 5 speed
12-14-2001, 11:54 AM
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While you are in there you may want to replace the bolts that connect the cam gear to the shaft. One of mine became loose and destroyed a keyway (sort of a tounge and groove thing). The keyway (I believed that's the name)lives on the front of the cam shaft. It is a fitting that fits into a slot on the gear that drives the cam. It's there to keep the shaft from spinning inside the gear.
Mine was sheared off when the bolt loosened. This was on the drivers side. It began as a clicking noise (much like a stuck lifter) in the front of the cam cover. It ended with a $2,500.00 repair. It could have been a hell of alot more!
Replacement bolts are of better quality. This (loosening bolt thing) is not that uncommon on older models. Both of mine are replaced now along with the gaskets.
I do have to replace the oil pan gasket; it leaks a little. However, the leaks from the top were fixed along with the cam proceedure. That's (oil pan gasket) another day and another dollar(s)!
Mine was sheared off when the bolt loosened. This was on the drivers side. It began as a clicking noise (much like a stuck lifter) in the front of the cam cover. It ended with a $2,500.00 repair. It could have been a hell of alot more!
Replacement bolts are of better quality. This (loosening bolt thing) is not that uncommon on older models. Both of mine are replaced now along with the gaskets.
I do have to replace the oil pan gasket; it leaks a little. However, the leaks from the top were fixed along with the cam proceedure. That's (oil pan gasket) another day and another dollar(s)!
12-14-2001, 12:23 PM
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Not sure about the early 16 valve motors...but on the 32 valve motors - the bolts that Moss is referring to position the Cam gear in a precise location for optimal fine tuning timing.
Allowing these bolts to permit 'drift' of the cam gears will adversely impact your engines performance capabilities. The only way to reset this 'fine tune' is removal of the Cam Covers and extensive measuring, rotating the engine, and remeasuring for proper valve displacement. Took me the better part of a full day to set mine up last summer.
hth-
Allowing these bolts to permit 'drift' of the cam gears will adversely impact your engines performance capabilities. The only way to reset this 'fine tune' is removal of the Cam Covers and extensive measuring, rotating the engine, and remeasuring for proper valve displacement. Took me the better part of a full day to set mine up last summer.
hth-
