heinrich

Duuuude ... TMI ... braggart

Alan

Oh well in that case I wont tell you there is one the same on both sides...

Adam I didn't order the rings etc seperately but they are just those rubber spacers etc I think - mine came with everything I needed on the motors already.

You need to get the connectors if you can find them and the Potentiometer and the socket for it - other than that its just generic wiring & connectors - I can talk you through it. I'm not sure where the diagram with the wiring is - but I need to get into my drivers side fender ~this weekend - so I can check

None of these parts relate to the headlights - but you do have pivoted 8" H4's right?

Alan

atb

Hi Alan,

I do not, not yet anyway.

Are all the H4 lights suitable for this application, or is there a particular one that is made to pivot?

Alan

They all are pivoted - just get 8" H4's from your favorite vendor or cast around - if you have good condition 8" H5's folks with 7" sealed beams will be interested in them (ebay...) which may help offset your costs... The H4's alone are a breeze to install - 30 mins max.

Alan

Bill Ball

The lens is mounted to a cad-plated metal frame similar to the H5 frame, but it has pivot shaft onto which a plastic swivel bracket mounts, then that plastic bracket attaches to the large aluminum yoke, the same yoke as for the H5.

Maybe this will help about the H4 basic parts. I don't cover the motor because I didn't uinstall them.
Swapping Euro style 8" H4 headlamps for the US H5

Leon Speed

Electric systems use a potentiometer as per Alan, hydraulic systems use a hydraulic switch. Electrical systems were installed as of '90.

Alan

Adam - they look exactly the same from the top side only....

I guess the hydraulic system is really like a little manual pump - circulates the slicone liquid directly in the pipes to the position actuator 'motors'.

The electrical version is a potentiomter and 3-4 resistor network combimed - not easy to replicate. It is fed by a suppply from the light switch I position and ground and creates a reference voltage for the 2 motors - the exact same 3 connections to the potentiometer control go to both motors also... The reference voltage is treated as an equivalent to a position marker for the motors - they will each move either way required until they each independantly esablish the same internal reference position voltage - they will also self adjust over time if needed. Although the **** is marked with 4 numbered positions and has detents there - it is continuously variable. Any position changes track quite slowly. I can see good reasons why Porsche did it this way - (actually they are marked Hella). No point having good remote aiming if the differential aming can get off...

But I could come up with a much simpler system that could also guarantee position locking between motors (say based on end stop matching instead)

Alan

atb

Bill wrote:
Bill, can you tell from the 928 Intl pic if the swivel bracket components (italics above) are included as part of what you get when you buy the entire H4 assembly from one of the 928 vendors? In looking at the pic, I really don't know what I'm looking for.

Alan wrote:
Any chance of posting a wiring diagram?

Also, what is the purpose of the unused fourth prong on the H4 bulb?

Alan

I'll have to make one... I'll need to dig out the motor connections first... its actually quite simple electrically to wire up - but pulling the wires can be more of a pain - you need to pull a 3 conductor wiring loom through the firewall. Fortunately ther are ways... whatever you do don't try to pull it though the big CE grommet though!

4 pins?? I'm not sure I know what you mean..? I've never seen an H4 bulb with 4 connectors - pictures?

Alan

atb

Alan, from Bill's site:

Bill Ball

Alan: Regarding the plastic pivots...you would need to check with DR or Jim as to whether the come with the headlamp or they have to be ordered separately.

Alan

Bill - on mine (from DR) the pivots were included - but not the nuts for the studs (I'd assume thi is the norm). So Adam you will need to source some metric nuts - 2 studs per pivot (4 total) M5? or M6? and SS Nylocks work well in this application.

The extra pin is not on the bulb - its only on the bulb socket. The bulb can only go in the socket one way so its obvious which get used. They are not symmetrical (pin orientation is different) so you won't get confused.

I'd presume maybe there are some exotic bulbs with a 3rd low power (marker light? filament). They would not technically be H4 (9003) Bulbs. They are not used on 928's. BTW the socket seals over the back of the the bulb with a rubber gasket & spring clamp.

Alan

atb

So:
1) 928 624 163 00 motor
2) 928 631 106 00 adapter
3) 928 624 165 00 sealing ring
4) 928 631 215 00 lock ring
5) 928 631 101 03 H4 Euro Headlight/seal
6) 928 ??? ??? ?? Switch
7) H4 Headlight socket

Is this a complete parts list then? Seems too easy. (Of course installation is a whole 'nother story).

Edit: Also, from Bills website it appears that you still have to buy the bulb in addition to part #5 above, is this true?

Alan

Adam my new H4's came with the 55W/60W standard bulb - I changed them out for different but I'd expect you will get 2.

Of course on your list you need:
1) 928 624 163 00 motor X2
2) 928 631 106 00 adapter X2 (is this the motor plug/pigtail ?)
3) 928 624 165 00 sealing ring X2
4) 928 631 215 00 lock ring X2
5) 928 631 101 03 H4 Euro Headlight/seal X2
6) 928.631.223.02 Switch/Potentiometer X1
7) Generic H4 Headlight socket x2 (get the ceramic ones if you can)

+
8) 928 ??? ??? ?? Switch/Potentiometer socket X1
9) Flex 3 conductor wire loom*

*Can be as small as 18 AWG - very low power - you will probably need about 25'

Alan

atb

Are the "correct" bulbs available from the usual suspects?