Stripped Belt Tensioner Mounting Hole
#1
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My shark is running well, but it's pretty clear now that the hole pictured below is stripped of most if not all of its threads. I can't understand why Porsche made the hole deep enough to intrude into the oil pathway, but it does. I'm leaking oil at a good pace now when the car is running. Nearly 2 quarts replaced on about 275 miles so far. Plumbers tape and Yamabond had no effect.
Given the length of the bolt/hole as well as the fact that the hole has no "bottom", I'm leaning toward tapping the hole to the next larger diameter instead of an insert. It's an 8x55 now, so we're looking at tapping it to 10. We'll work slowly, pulling out the aluminum shavings as we go to prevent them from getting into the oil pathway.
Thoughts/suggestions? Better ideas?
(NOTE....the pic is not from my car...I still need to pull the belt covers and take off the tensioner. )
Given the length of the bolt/hole as well as the fact that the hole has no "bottom", I'm leaning toward tapping the hole to the next larger diameter instead of an insert. It's an 8x55 now, so we're looking at tapping it to 10. We'll work slowly, pulling out the aluminum shavings as we go to prevent them from getting into the oil pathway.
Thoughts/suggestions? Better ideas?
(NOTE....the pic is not from my car...I still need to pull the belt covers and take off the tensioner. )
#2
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I'm looking at the picture and diagram again. I'm not certain the circled hole is the one that's involved. From the parts diagram, it looks like the bolt (#5) actually goes into the hole that's up and left of the circled hole. Does that intrude into the oil path, too?
#3
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You might save a little wall thickness by using a SAE bolt - and still have material to tap a M10 if that failed. 5/16 is ~8mm, so a 3/8 may work = ~ 9.5mm. 11/32 would be perfect ... if you could find one.
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It's hard to compare the drawings, but I think you may have the wrong bolt indicated. Here's the WSM with 14a being the bolt that penetrates into the oil passage. It seems to coincide with 24 in your drawing. You appear to be indicating the hole I've circled in red, whereas the one in green should be the leaker.
Anyway, you can pull a few of the suspects and probe the holes.
Anyway, you can pull a few of the suspects and probe the holes.
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#9
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
I believe the one I have indicated coincides with the one Ken shows leaking on the block.
#10
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Is this for all model years? I've a persistent oil leak that I thought was the tensioner oil, but I'm now thinking that I may have the same leak... Hmmm.... This requires further investigation.
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Bill, Nice job on the illustration ,and diagnosis, Big Dave check both of these bolts for correct length 14a, and 14 b, .......... I believe that 14 b also captures the lower timing cover to tensioner,that is why its a bit longer, to see what bolts leaking just remove one or the other and see if anything comes out, if no joy true a quick start and shut off. DONT remove both at the same time, this could let the tensioner walk and reduce the tension on your belt, Stan