Preparing/Restoring Alusil bores for Dummies
#16
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Engine update
Hi All
Well I have now completed 1500 miles since my rebuild. I changed the oil at 200 miles and am now running on 20/50 dino oil (valvolene). The oil is still absolutley clean, no colouration to it at all.
Engine as sweet as a nut, no blow back at 3000 revs thro the oil filler, pulls like a train, and the exhaust is completely clean at the tail pipe, no deposites at all on the inner surface of the tail pipe.
The idle is rock steady, and she revs to 6000 without any hesitation, very happy bunny.
So, I guess my ali polish on the bores did the trick!
John
Well I have now completed 1500 miles since my rebuild. I changed the oil at 200 miles and am now running on 20/50 dino oil (valvolene). The oil is still absolutley clean, no colouration to it at all.
Engine as sweet as a nut, no blow back at 3000 revs thro the oil filler, pulls like a train, and the exhaust is completely clean at the tail pipe, no deposites at all on the inner surface of the tail pipe.
The idle is rock steady, and she revs to 6000 without any hesitation, very happy bunny.
So, I guess my ali polish on the bores did the trick!
John
#17
Rennlist Member
you might want to fatten it up a bit. always nice to have a little black dust in the tail pipe
nice job, congrats! feels good dont it?
mk
nice job, congrats! feels good dont it?
mk
Hi All
Well I have now completed 1500 miles since my rebuild. I changed the oil at 200 miles and am now running on 20/50 dino oil (valvolene). The oil is still absolutley clean, no colouration to it at all.
Engine as sweet as a nut, no blow back at 3000 revs thro the oil filler, pulls like a train, and the exhaust is completely clean at the tail pipe, no deposites at all on the inner surface of the tail pipe.
The idle is rock steady, and she revs to 6000 without any hesitation, very happy bunny.
So, I guess my ali polish on the bores did the trick!
John
Well I have now completed 1500 miles since my rebuild. I changed the oil at 200 miles and am now running on 20/50 dino oil (valvolene). The oil is still absolutley clean, no colouration to it at all.
Engine as sweet as a nut, no blow back at 3000 revs thro the oil filler, pulls like a train, and the exhaust is completely clean at the tail pipe, no deposites at all on the inner surface of the tail pipe.
The idle is rock steady, and she revs to 6000 without any hesitation, very happy bunny.
So, I guess my ali polish on the bores did the trick!
John
#18
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Hi Mark
CO adjusted to 1.2% at idle, which seems to suit the engine, any leaner and the idle becomes unsettled very slightly.
Infact I set the mixture by listening to the engine, and on checking it it was 1.2%
John
CO adjusted to 1.2% at idle, which seems to suit the engine, any leaner and the idle becomes unsettled very slightly.
Infact I set the mixture by listening to the engine, and on checking it it was 1.2%
John
#19
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Update on ali polished engine bores
Hi All
Well something strange is going on with my rebuilt engine. I have been noticing a slight roughness when revved (driven) a very slight odd vibration thro' the gear stick. Up from about 2000 revs.
Car drives beautifully and pulls like a train.
Anyway, bit the bullet and have just carried out a compresion test as follows:
Engine HOT, fuel pump fuse out, all plugs out.
Engine turned over until gauge peaks.
Readings in Psi
1 - 183
2 - 181
3 - 184
4 - 182
5 - 182
6 - 183
7 - 184
8 - 184
Pretty happy with that compression test!
So I guess there maybe something going on with the bottom end?
Engine oil clean, idles cleanly, revs easiliy, but there is a very definate low level rumble/imbalance somewhere. Punching the clutch out makes no difference.
Oil pressure is good, 3.5 Bar at idle hot, max over 5 bar at 1500 revs upwards.
Maybe I'm just being paranoid!
john
Well something strange is going on with my rebuilt engine. I have been noticing a slight roughness when revved (driven) a very slight odd vibration thro' the gear stick. Up from about 2000 revs.
Car drives beautifully and pulls like a train.
Anyway, bit the bullet and have just carried out a compresion test as follows:
Engine HOT, fuel pump fuse out, all plugs out.
Engine turned over until gauge peaks.
Readings in Psi
1 - 183
2 - 181
3 - 184
4 - 182
5 - 182
6 - 183
7 - 184
8 - 184
Pretty happy with that compression test!
So I guess there maybe something going on with the bottom end?
Engine oil clean, idles cleanly, revs easiliy, but there is a very definate low level rumble/imbalance somewhere. Punching the clutch out makes no difference.
Oil pressure is good, 3.5 Bar at idle hot, max over 5 bar at 1500 revs upwards.
Maybe I'm just being paranoid!
john
#20
Rennlist Member
I think your being paranoid! You don't say what year you have, could you be feeling failed hydraulic motor mounts? Or maybe an ignition problem, like a slight miss caused by any number of things. How is the torque tube (felt thru the gear shift)? Sounds like the basic engine is fine and something else is causing the NEW problem.
#21
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Vibration through the shifter. I wouldn't think crank/rod area, but possible. I would think TT, TT bearings, clutch area. Also maybe your MM are getting crappy. Top numbers are good, no diff when the clutch is in or out, hmmmmm. I guess motor mounts, but also possibly crank related.
Get an oil sample and send it to one of the testing shops. They'll tell you if there's funny metal in it.
Get an oil sample and send it to one of the testing shops. They'll tell you if there's funny metal in it.
#22
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TT bearings new, TC bearings new, MM new.
Vibration/noise worse at about 2800 revs, car stationary, makes no difference with clutch in or out.
Anyone done a bottom end with the engine still in the car?
John
Vibration/noise worse at about 2800 revs, car stationary, makes no difference with clutch in or out.
Anyone done a bottom end with the engine still in the car?
John
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Hello, still around!
Vibration fixed, rotated 1 of the 2 clutch friction plates by 180 deg.
Car sold on, but as far as I know the engine is still going strong - still in contact with the owner.
Vibration fixed, rotated 1 of the 2 clutch friction plates by 180 deg.
Car sold on, but as far as I know the engine is still going strong - still in contact with the owner.
#26
Did iyour honing hold up? Can you bore before honing???
[QUOTE=johnb;4906750]Hi Mark
CO adjusted to 1.2% at idle, which seems to suit the engine, any leaner and the idle becomes unsettled very slightly.
Infact I set the mixture by listening to the engine, and on checking it it was 1.2%
Thank you very much for your time. I want to bore mine then use your hone techniue
CO adjusted to 1.2% at idle, which seems to suit the engine, any leaner and the idle becomes unsettled very slightly.
Infact I set the mixture by listening to the engine, and on checking it it was 1.2%
Thank you very much for your time. I want to bore mine then use your hone techniue
#27
I think the above post may be a bot, but in essence, it does work.
Today's technology uses etching to do the same thing, but we do not have access to such things in the home garage.
Using real felt pads on an actual honing tool is also of importance, which may not have come out of that article posted all those years ago.
Today's technology uses etching to do the same thing, but we do not have access to such things in the home garage.
Using real felt pads on an actual honing tool is also of importance, which may not have come out of that article posted all those years ago.