Bret928

So I’m performing oil & filter change (first sense I got it) and decided to go with Castrol’s Syntec 5W50 (dang near $80 WTF!?!?), a new Mahle filter and a new crush washer.

Something I didn’t think about before starting was removing the old oil filter that is much skinner than the oil filters of my other vehicles. Not to be deterred – looking at the old filter looks as if I could almost get both hands around it. So I try to muscle it out’a there. But the last guy who changed the damn thing must’ve been a real Magilla Gorilla because it wouldn’t budge. Crap! Whatever happened to “hand” tight ace!?!

Anyway, I take a quick trip over to the local auto parts store with the new filter, to see if I can find a filter tool. Found one that fits over the end of the filter and you just use a 3/8” driver to remove the old filter. But upon return I try the tool and I’ll be damned if it doesn’t slip when I apply pressure to it. Again the Gorilla who put this thing on really cranked on it.

I was just about to do the old Screwdriver through the filter but decided to give one more thing a try first. I took one of the old filter clamp tools and tucked a couple of bolts up in it before I clamped it down. It slipped too but not before moving the old filter about an 8th of an inch. Whoo-Ho!

That did the trick using the new tool I’d purchased I had the filter off and replaced within a couple of minutes. Poured in the oil and removed the coil wire from the dizzy and cranked the engine using the starter to circulate the oil in the system.

All that work just to change an oil filter. Thanks Magilla Gorilla!

hacker-pschorr

Keep an eye on your oil color (not sure what else to watch for). In a different thread a few stories (two were mine) were shared about Syntec 5w-50 breaking down way early.

Not trying to scare you since we have no real scientific info to prove anything, just an FYI.

Rob Edwards

And this is why I continue to pay more money to change my own oil, including good oil, filters, a new crush washer, and the hassle of proper disposal, than I could pay the Jiffy-Pop guys do it.

At least changes are easy on the 928- To do the wife's '03 Accord, I have to jack the right front and pull the wheel to get at the damn filter which is in between some suspension arms. And the drain plug is horizontal and buried in a recess that is very difficult to get a standard socket on the bolt. D'oh!

Bret928

Thanks Hacker, I'll keep an eye on it.

But I thought that Syntec was supposed to mean less oil changes? Not that I was planning to put a lot of miles on the Shark (it's not my daily driver) but I was hoping to change it every 12 months or so.

More good news is my magnetic oil plug was clean as a whistle!

IcemanG17

5-50 should be fine.....still 50wt up high but with easier start up.....some guys who run their 928's hard (think ORR) have had low oil pressure problems with 10-40....that heavier oil didn't do....

Its safe to say that most of us change the oil way more than it really needs (outside of a few racers)....for non daily drivers once a year even for dino oil is plenty.....but Amsoil 20-50 racing (what I use) is really expensive....even with my discount it comes out to $100 a case!! So I have 3 extras.....

Bret928

Yea if it wasn't for the over tightened filter the whole exersize would've taken about an hour to perform.

My F-150 4x4 is a pain in the **** because of the front differntual. Without removal of the skid plate - theres only enough room for two finger to get at the oil filter. Should someone over tighten it - the only way to get at it is with the skid plate removed. Even then your arm needs to bend & flex in about three different directions.

hacker-pschorr

Castrol Syntec falls under the "artificial synthetic" title.

"Type IV and Type V base oil (synthetics) are chemically made from uniform molecules with no paraffin and don't need Viscosity Additives. However, in recent years Type III base oils have been labeled "synthetic" through a legal loophole. These are petroleum based Type II oils that have had the sulfur refined out making them more pure and longer lasting. Type III "synthetic" motor oils must employ Viscosity Additives being petroleum based."

Castrol Syntec is one of these Type III oils that is allowed to be labelled as a synthetic. These additives added to type III oils are one of the advantages to true synthetics (since they are free of these additives).

Source:
http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/m...ity/index.html

Ispeed

Hacker is right. BIG difference between real synthetic oils and Castrol syntec.
This was discussed recently here.

Panzer9

WOW! That's Bull****- That's marketing for ya!

UKKid35

Boa Constrictor

Bret928

I've got one but even with all the space on the sides it wouldn't fit at a good enough angle to work properly.

Thing is the guy who installed the last filter didn't need to crank down on it so hard. I thought it was me until the tool that fit over the top of the filter slipped.

hacker-pschorr

I forgot to mention the #1 reason I stopped using Syntec was after I changed the oil on the wife's Audi and Scirocco. Both were under 5,000 miles (Audi was under 3,000). Last oil change was last fall sometime.

The Audi's lifters started to play jingle bells, went away after an oil change. The oil that came out of the Scirocco had the lubrication qualities of water.

Both were using Syntec.

UKKid35

Weird - plenty of space to use on my car, perfect angle to get any amount of torque, perhaps you have a larger Boa...

Bret928

Different name but same basic design as the second from the largest shown on the link. Seemed a little big and kept on slipping.

The point is the chucklehead (PO I'm pretty sure) overtightened the filter when he installed it. So it might of worked had it not been cranked on when it was installed.