Mike Frye

So I'm working from home today and I've been thinking of getting a short throw shifter for my 5 speed, so I decided to try cutting mine down first. It didn't take me more than 25 minutes to do, including setup and cleanup, and it makes a noticable difference.

I know that the difference between a 'Real' short throw shifter involves not only the throw of the shifter, but the distance between the holes in the shifter base. Having these holes farther apart reduces the overall throw and leverage and gives a tighter shift pattern.

I understand this not a 'Short throw shifter', but for 20 minutes worth of effort, no mess, and about 6 or 7 cutoff wheels for my dremel, it really makes a noticable difference in the shifting.

Here's what I did: First I wanted to know exactly what effect it would have, so I measured from the base of the radio faceplate to where the top of the stick goes in 2nd and then 3rd gear:
2nd

3rd

The wheel was in the way and I wasn't on the passenger side, so I'll guess the throw is about 9.5"-4" or about 5 1/2"?
Then I took a box with a closed bottom, and pushed it down on the stick, so that the sides stick up higher than the stick (to prevent the metal from getting all over the interior) and cut off the top inch with a dremel.




Then I took another measurement on the top of the new location:



It looks like about 9.25"-4.25" or about 5". (Measuring the front in both cases).
So apparently I reduced the throw by only about 1/2"-5/8" at the top and obviously didn't change the geometry at the bottom. Once the handle goes back on, you can add a small fraction of an inch difference, but it's not as much as it feels like.

I just took it down the road and it seems much closer and tighter. The little dogleg between 1st and 2nd when the spring kicks it over just a hair is much smoother. It feels much better and quicker and definitely is easier to reach between 1 and 2 and between 3 and 4 as well.

I'm even considering taking off another 1/2" or so, but I might get a spare stick or even a real short throw shifter just to be safe.


If anyone is thinking about doing this, it's about the quickest way I can think of to do a mod that will affect your driving experience. And for zero cost, it's worth every penny!

Hope this helps someone out there.

Mike Simard

By shortening the tip of the lever by 20mm you have a GT shifter! I replaced my S4 with the shorter GT lever and was very pleased, it's just right
BTW, that's a nice setup for keeping the area clean

Garth S

Starting with a much taller shifter in my '80, ~2.75" were lopped off with a hacksaw ... using a plastic bag ( condom style ) vs a cardboard box - same sano result.
What took far more time was restoring the two dimples near the top of the lever using a round file ...... if you do not do this, the shift **** will not lock in to the lever - and will end up in your hand like a dead chicken as you grab for 3rd gear while full on the brakes whilst diving full tilt into your fav corner .... don't ask ...

Jim bailey - 928 International

once you have decided on the final length be sure to cut the notches for the **** to grab hold of

RyanPerrella

I have the short shifter from whoever was making them, the red aluminum anodized one, but because of its design, it eliminates the factory springs and nylon washer and because of that the short shifter will buzz occasionally where ther factory plastic cap and the leather boot meet. Its really quite annoying, but Ive been meaning to fill the void under the plastic inlay with something to eliminate the noise, i need to just cut a circular bit of foam and that should cure the noise issue.

ew928

I predrilled a couple of holes figuring drill bits were better at handling the cutting duty.
Then finished off the holey shifter with dremel. Only took 2 cutoff wheels. Shoulda done it with one cutoff wheel but I pinched the first one and it shattered. Luckily I was using the box method and the wheel went zing inside the box.

Went with a Momo **** so I didn't have to figure out how to notch the shifter.

Mike Frye

Thanks for the feedback.

Garth and Jim, thanks for the advice, I just took another 3/8" off and put the notches in with the dremel.

OK, the revised estimate is about an hour start to finish if you don't mind going through lots of cutoff wheels (I switched to the fiber type and it lasted the rest of the job, the first ones were those wafer thin ones that crack when you get them pinched in the cut. They wear away fast too).

To get the notches, I just cut a bunch of shallow cuts about 1/8" deep, then kind of connected them just like you might do if you were cutting tile with a wet saw.

Just took it down the street again, I like being able to shift with just a few fingers instead of having to straighten my whole arm for that 3-4 shift. Very firm, I likey!

I think I noticed that the stock shift handle is a little loose on top now, I don't know if it's because I put it on the stick when it was still hot or if it's not bottoming out the shifter in the hole. I'll measure it later and see. I might have to shorten the rubber shift **** (I think it's too narrow at the end because the shift lever is thicker as you go down farther). That part is inside the leather boot anyway, so it shouldn't be a problem. I'll post the results.

heinrich

Well ... remember that you have NOT changed the THROW of the shifter, just its neck length. A short throw comes from the holes at the bottom of the shifter, which allow greater leverage as opposed to farther apart on the regular shifter (which you have just made a shorter neck).

Garth S

Correct - a depth neasurement is necessary: from this result, either cut off the bottom section of the **** ... or grind down the shank of the lever. The **** must 'click' into the notches, and I found that it required considerable pressure to do so.
Admittedly, shortening the lever is not a true 'short shifter' .... or is it? The net result is that shift throws are shorter .... and that is the goal. Either or both of increased spacing of the pivots and shortening of the primary lever serve to decrease the mechanical advantage ..... and shorten the shift.

Mike Frye

Heinrich,

Understood. I put a disclaimer in the opening post, but it bears repeating.

It's not a true Short Throw Shifter, but it is a short shifter, no ? While not as good as a real one, it's definitely better than the way it was, the total shift pattern is much more compact and that's what I wanted.

I just trimmed the bottom 5/8" or so off of the rubber shift **** and it's now seated all the way down and the notches are holding it (the inside top of the **** is ripped a little, so I could see it with the cap off). All looks good and lined up. Not bad for a 'lunchtime' mod.

heinrich

Mike, way to get that golf club down to a manageable size

Lizard928

heh, I used my plasma cutter to whack the end off, and cut the area between the two holes, then got a piece of material that was the right size and welded it in there to give me a true short throw, and short shifter.

I have done 3 other 928s in the lower mainland as well. Works great, noone sees it so the billit ones arent really needed, and it does the job just as good.

3000teeth

Zero cost to you, but what about your employer?

Mike Frye

I did actually get it done on my lunch break, so no cost to them either. But thanks for asking.

Some days working from home are more productive than others, but this one was a winner for my company and for me, I made some good progress on the project I was working on for work too. (In case someone at my office is a member)

whall

Mike,
Been there and done that and I agree - the improvement is huge - replace all wear pieces in the shift system and the improvement continues.
Warren