Help needed - slipping cam gear - UPDATED
#31
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Originally Posted by heinrich
I wonder if a simple sprung washer would be OK? Or a toothed washer?
#32
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That coating has lubricant properties - must be really good friction reducer, as it claims. Manually rotating the engine exerts very little torque (just valve sping tension) on the cam gear.
My reading of the PET shows 55mm shaft length for the bolts, not counting the head. What are yours?
My reading of the PET shows 55mm shaft length for the bolts, not counting the head. What are yours?
Last edited by Bill Ball; 07-26-2007 at 04:22 PM.
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
You have two cam bolts that are different lengths. My reading of the PET shows 55mm length. Yours are over 60mm.
Edit: On even closer inspection, that dial is all over the map... I think you need a new caliper.
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I rewrote my post a little. The bolt shaft should be 55mm. The 16V engines had 2 different bolts. I'm leaning in the direction of the coating being the problem.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 07-26-2007 at 02:33 PM.
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This saga ends tonight. I'm removing the coating, and I have a shortened (by 1/8") bolt...the guys here in the lab at work ground it down and beveled the end for me. If the original bolt is not the correct length (55mm), I'll use the shorter one. One of the two, combined with the removed coating, better fix this situation. I shouldn't be surprised that a non-stick surface isn't sticking.
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#36
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Originally Posted by Andrew Olson
I had to go back and look at Dave's pics. Sure enough that one that looks like it's 40mm in the dial is actually 60mm. I think Bill found your problem Dave...
Edit: On even closer inspection, that dial is all over the map... I think you need a new caliper.
Edit: On even closer inspection, that dial is all over the map... I think you need a new caliper.
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I sanded off the non-stick coating from the hub surfaces, used the shortened bolt, and the slipping has STOPPED.
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I'm glad that you solved it, but what worries me is that there seems to be no locking mechanism between the cam and cam gear.
Surely it is critical that Mr Valve not meet Mr Piston, and even in the non-interference engines, performance is NOT going to be good if the valve to crank timing changes as the cam gear moves wrt the cam.
What am I missing here?
Steve
Surely it is critical that Mr Valve not meet Mr Piston, and even in the non-interference engines, performance is NOT going to be good if the valve to crank timing changes as the cam gear moves wrt the cam.
What am I missing here?
Steve
#40
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If a bolt bottoms out in the bottom of a tapped hole, the threads at the bottom of the bolt get damaged....it is easy to see and would be obvious. Also a bolt that bottoms out, feels a whole bunch different when you try to torque it, since the bolt twists the entire length, from the bottom where it stops. The difference in the feel, as one attempts to torque the bolt is very obvious. So, I'm not buying the bolt being too long for the camshaft.
That means the coating on the gear is so slick that there is not enough friction to clamp the gear to the drive hub....interesting to think what happens when the belt touches this slick surface and tries to turn the camshafts.....
gb
That means the coating on the gear is so slick that there is not enough friction to clamp the gear to the drive hub....interesting to think what happens when the belt touches this slick surface and tries to turn the camshafts.....
gb
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
If a bolt bottoms out in the bottom of a tapped hole, the threads at the bottom of the bolt get damaged....it is easy to see and would be obvious. Also a bolt that bottoms out, feels a whole bunch different when you try to torque it, since the bolt twists the entire length, from the bottom where it stops. The difference in the feel, as one attempts to torque the bolt is very obvious. So, I'm not buying the bolt being too long for the camshaft.
That means the coating on the gear is so slick that there is not enough friction to clamp the gear to the drive hub....interesting to think what happens when the belt touches this slick surface and tries to turn the camshafts.....
gb
That means the coating on the gear is so slick that there is not enough friction to clamp the gear to the drive hub....interesting to think what happens when the belt touches this slick surface and tries to turn the camshafts.....
gb
Here's an eroded gear, incapable of being salvaged with a new coating.
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Originally Posted by sendarius
I'm glad that you solved it, but what worries me is that there seems to be no locking mechanism between the cam and cam gear.
Surely it is critical that Mr Valve not meet Mr Piston, and even in the non-interference engines, performance is NOT going to be good if the valve to crank timing changes as the cam gear moves wrt the cam.
What am I missing here?
Steve
Surely it is critical that Mr Valve not meet Mr Piston, and even in the non-interference engines, performance is NOT going to be good if the valve to crank timing changes as the cam gear moves wrt the cam.
What am I missing here?
Steve
I agree that the engine would run like @#$@ if the cam timing slipped. That's why I had to stop it!
I blame the coating here. It had glazed over on the contact surfaces.
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That was a very interesting thread; congrats on solving the mystery.
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Originally Posted by Big Dave
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I sanded off the non-stick coating from the hub surfaces, used the shortened bolt, and the slipping has STOPPED.
![rockon](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/rockon.gif)
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Now, it's a marathon weekend for you. You need to drive it this weekend to get some miles (and confidence) before Hell.