Brake Caliper Torque Setting
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Bridge of Allan, Scotland
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brake Caliper Torque Setting
I've just been changing my front brake discs and pads. I had a REAL bother getting out the old caliper bolts. I'm going to replace these with new ones so could anyone please tell me the correct torque setting for the new ones ?
Many thanks.
Many thanks.
#3
Nordschleife Master
Question.
How much does this matter? Non of the values are very high, or extreamly low.
Is there anything wrong with getting the bolts, and getting them good N snug. Of course doing them up to torque is always best, but...
They're hefty bolts, I can't see one over torqueing them. And if they're snug that you'd have to fight to get them off when you put them on, they shouldn't work themselves lose.
How much does this matter? Non of the values are very high, or extreamly low.
Is there anything wrong with getting the bolts, and getting them good N snug. Of course doing them up to torque is always best, but...
They're hefty bolts, I can't see one over torqueing them. And if they're snug that you'd have to fight to get them off when you put them on, they shouldn't work themselves lose.
#4
Ignore at your own peril.
Fastner torque is used not so much to measure how tight a bolt is per se but how much work is required to stretch a bolt to its appropriate holding force.
Maximum holding power is derived from a bolt that is torqued to the appropriate nm/lb ft setting to derive the best stretch for the bolt size, pitch, and grade.
Too loose, even if they feel tight, and they may work themselves loose under braking force. Too tight, and they may shear.
Maybe they would be just fine. I, for one, would not like to roll the dice with any aspect of the stuff holding my brakes to the car, but YMMV.
Fastner torque is used not so much to measure how tight a bolt is per se but how much work is required to stretch a bolt to its appropriate holding force.
Maximum holding power is derived from a bolt that is torqued to the appropriate nm/lb ft setting to derive the best stretch for the bolt size, pitch, and grade.
Too loose, even if they feel tight, and they may work themselves loose under braking force. Too tight, and they may shear.
Maybe they would be just fine. I, for one, would not like to roll the dice with any aspect of the stuff holding my brakes to the car, but YMMV.
#5
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I'll second that opinion. Even an inexpensive torque wrench is a good investment if you plan on doing any work on your car at all. Simple stuff like changing a wheel risks damage if the correct torque is not used.
You can get a usable 1/2" wrench for less than $20 at places like Harbor Freight (www.harborfreight.com). I'm not sure I'd risk things like rod bolts or head studs with that one, but it will be adequate for most common stuff you'll do.
For those who will preach the torque wrench quality mantra, rest assured that I do in fact have a fairly good set of wrenches (Snap-On), and the cal certs are less than 2 years old. For most of us home handymen, you probably won't need to worry about maintaining calibration unless you drop the wrench or over-torque it while using it as just a ratchet. (Never do this, incidentally...)
You can get a usable 1/2" wrench for less than $20 at places like Harbor Freight (www.harborfreight.com). I'm not sure I'd risk things like rod bolts or head studs with that one, but it will be adequate for most common stuff you'll do.
For those who will preach the torque wrench quality mantra, rest assured that I do in fact have a fairly good set of wrenches (Snap-On), and the cal certs are less than 2 years old. For most of us home handymen, you probably won't need to worry about maintaining calibration unless you drop the wrench or over-torque it while using it as just a ratchet. (Never do this, incidentally...)
#6
Im also changing my front discs and pads (rear are done) and found this really old thread while searching the forum... So Ill borrow it for a while
What torque should I use for the front S4 caliper bolts? The image showing the torque settings in this thread isnt working anymore...
What torque should I use for the front S4 caliper bolts? The image showing the torque settings in this thread isnt working anymore...
#7
Originally Posted by adam928
Im also changing my front discs and pads (rear are done) and found this really old thread while searching the forum... So Ill borrow it for a while
What torque should I use for the front S4 caliper bolts? The image showing the torque settings in this thread isnt working anymore...
What torque should I use for the front S4 caliper bolts? The image showing the torque settings in this thread isnt working anymore...
Hawk
Trending Topics
#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Edmonton, Ab
Posts: 2,286
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I use anti-seize on every fastener that I don't use lock-tite on, on this car. I am sick and tired of snapping off bolts or pulling aluminum threads from places where Porsche ought to have known that dissimliar metals would cause trouble down the line.