John Struthers

John and Randy,
Is it safe to presume the archives are gone?
A while back someone - where are you? - posted a replacement radio/Cd player where the electronics shop guy had made/fabricated a wiring harness. Would,TRUELY,appreciate a repost with the site/name and address of the shop. Additionally, will not know if the AMP.
is functional until I wire the new system in
as the ye olde Blaupunkt would only work intermittently,occasionally losing the right channel, and the cassette would only play one Euro-Trash Disco cassette(lucky me!)
If the amp. is smoked do I just jump the speaker leads at the amp or at the fader ****? The new Awia (so I'm cheap, sue me!) has more output per channel than the stock amp. by a factor of six or better and since I hope not to blow out the existing speakers high volume will not be an issue. Besides, just looking at the rear- speaker - panels looks like a chore of some magnitude.
Thanks,
Keep em' rolling
John S. 82' Weissach, Auto. , 'Pattycakes'

Jim Nowak

John,

Bypass the stock amp and direct wire the speakers to your headunit. A wiring harness would be nice but it is not necessary. You can direct wire the whole shebang and it's not very difficult. Do not use the stock fader it is a weak point in the system!

Jim Nowak

Donald

John-
Here's one way to do it: http://www.928s4.com/tips/StereoMods.htm

Although I personally continued my bast....ation of the original and replaced the 4" (Kenwood KFC 1077, $50) in the door & the rear 6 1/2" (JBL GT 620 $99), ignoring the tweeters, amp and old wiring (butchered by the PO).
Philistinosophy being that w/ the improvement in speaker technology & higher output stereo didn't need the hassle of the 8 speaker layout. (Also added a powered sub-woofer & bass-blockers on the small speakers). The Kenwood grills are very similar to OEM, & managed to use the original grills on the JBLs.
Someday I may return to the challenge of all those speakers & multi-channel amps, but the sound now is tremendous. Warning! w/ the sub-woofer, a minimum of 5lb trigger pull is recommended as severe vibrations can build up in those door pockets!
Donald

'90GT Porsche No-va
(Still hoping for help w/ the LH lock-out)

Donald

John-
P.S. if your rear speaker panel is like mine, the speakers are external mounting and easy to pull & replace. New wires can be taped to and pulled through using the old wires (or a coat hanger).
Donald

Thom1

John,

Jim is right on. All you need are power, ground, antenna, speakers, and possibly power antenna lead from the old harness. A qualified installer can easilly find those, or trace the wires to the next cutoff point such as a fader.

Get a high powered cd player. I understand that there is a new type that lets you play CDs that normally only work in your computer. (When music is downloaded from the internet, formats can be incompatible with car stereos.) The rear tweeters are probably a waste. I have Boston Acoustic speakers in the other 6 holes. They are better than original. I would upgrade the stereo rather than revert to that old system.

John Struthers

Danke Schon,
Jim, Yeah I guess the re wire would be best I'll draw up a schematic and acetate it, and tape it in the owners manual with a spare taped to the Cd player so the next owner - don't hold your breath - or my son, Zack will know what transpired.
Donald, Will check out the Mod site as a standby. All of my speakers are sub-surface.
Is there such a person as a Leather Meister?
How they managed to perforate the leather for the speakers is beyond me. No matter what happens I WILL NEVER hack this gorgeous leather. I'd rather velcro several tri-axials to the rear deck carpeting and live outside the realm of Quadra phenia than even contemplate knifing an immaculate interior.
I do envy those of you with externally mounted speakers, though.
Thomhross, Any idea on possible problems if I raise the power antenna and pull the leads to keep it in the raised position. Winter is fast approaching and I would like to avoid power drains on the battery - I use the sunroof at least 4 times daily and the power ant. would probably see more use. Nope, I don't want to replace it with a fixed Ant. unless its necessary.
John S and Pattycakes

Thom1

John,

Most new car stereos come with power antenna wires. They should be connected to a source that becomes hot when the ignition key is turned. Antenna should be grounded to the body. Check the new stereo installation guide for confirmation of ground. Power antenna should work fine then. Your other solution may work while you are in installation mode. But, I would use the new cd player, or old stereo instead for tests.

Hidden speakers are trickier. It is harder to visually trace wires. They usually come in pairs, like blue wire and blue and white wire per speaker for modern stereos. The original Porsche wiring might be mysterious. I have never tried to track down speaker wires from an unlabeled harness. However, you can use the old stereo, and clip wires to note which speakers quit working. If there are faders and speaker amps, the complexity may increase. You can also power up suspected wires with sources of live speaker output like your new cd player. Never been there, but see what I mean? You risk damage to new components if you say, connect antenna power wire to a speaker. It may be better to smooze an installer for some hints on how to identify proper wires.

Good Luck!

Thom1

John,

I reread your last post. My response was geared more toward testing. However, it looks like you were asking about winter power drain. Your solution should work, but why? Does it ice up too often? You may want to raise the antenna, clean with say Kleen Strip Aircraft Prep. Give it a very light lube, say teflon spray, go with it. You can pour hot water into it to release freeze if necessary. Then dry it with heat, depending on accessibility.

John Struthers

Thom, and others,
Ach du Leiber, und mein Gott!!
Well.... unscrewed the 2 ash tray screws and removed wire connectors. Removed upper center vent. Removed the large black console trim piece. Removed left stereo ****(s) and retaining nut then discovered the 4 pressure retaining clips. Pulled radio. Alas, only 1 1/2" of slack and my hands (huge) do not permit much in the way of groping... Plan #2. Read a post that someone went in thru the console side panels. Give it a shot, right? Four screws to remove the cassette box -is that thing useless or what?- . Removed a single screw on each console side then paused to look at what I was doing. Merde! From what I could see the storage trays would have to go then... . Plan #3.
Removed warning light strip above radio, Still not enogh room (hands). Removed the four screws holding in the climate control head. Pulled head, only 2" of slack.
Removed vac. connectors and a variety of electrical connectors. Yanked radio power, ant., speaker leads. I an assuming that the large insulated multi-wire bundle services the teeny lights on the radio/cass. face. Do I just clip and tape the whole lot of them in this bundle? Hmmmm...The small fuse on the back of the radio seems white inside and at the ends - kind of like battery corrosion. The hot lead fuse appears to be O.K. So, I'm thinking that I disconnect speaker wires at fader AND factory AMP. Cap them at amp and just run a matched set of wires from the new CD to where I disconnected at the fader. Maybe stick a new fader switch in now or later, so will leave a bunch of slack to play with as well as slack at the CD end as well. The deal with the Antenna is juice consumption. I've cleaned every ground strap and contact including connectors at the main panel and still have to trickle charge my new battery on a regular basis -Alternator is just fine thank you-. All of my rocker lights are in the off mode. The only lights aside from the dash and head/running lights not disconnected are the red door locater lights. So either there is an undiagnosed drain or its all the short runs I make not giving the Battery tome to re-charge. As to cleaning the antenna while stymied between Plan #2 and #3 I decided to look at the sunroof as it was getting REAL slow and drawing - by ammeter more than its fair share of electrons -. Shieste! It appearrs as though a combination of graphite and a wet lube of some kind bonded to the area under the guide rail and was ramping up with each cycle of the sunroof. Wd 40 a t shirt and flat tip cleand so much crap off the rail that when I cycled the sunroof again it seemed rocket assisted and slammed shut- with little consumption of juice-. Still, juice is and will remain a concern till I sort out any remaining problems. I don't have a remote lock/burglar alarm so I don't think disabling it in the up mode should cause any problems. What say thee, oh wise, and sweaty, electrical wizards?
All advise - especially, free advise, condidered-.
Thanks
John S & Pattycakes

Donald

John-
Uh, I went in on the sides of the stereo. Just 2-3 trim screws in the carpet, is this the same on yours? I think I dropped the glove box lid to slide the horizontal bit out on the passenger side, the driver's side was only a vertical piece & they run back about a 18 inches (they both slide up behind the console trim). Is this making sense, or have you tried this? I would look at mine, but it's still at the mechanic's.
You could put a mechanical toggle switch in-line on the antennae power wire. Then you can also play with it when stuck in traffic- on those trips to big town, say McCamey.
I ran new wires from head unit to speakers, only existing wire I used was the ignition-on lead, even ran a new ground because the old one was the source of post-installation problems. The original wiring harness was already gone from mine, so I did not have the option of splicing in at the unit, but it was easy runnung the wiring anyway. My new CD has a built-in fader, if yours does you can ignore the OEM one. As long as your amp isn't connected to a hot lead, you can leave it & the wiring alone.
Viel Gluck!
Donald

Jim Nowak

John,

I wouldn't advise you using the factory fader because it is a source of distortion and is a weak point in the system!

JIm Nowak

John Struthers

Donald,
Pcakes may be different. I removed the one visible carpet screw, each side, checked at the 'skinny' aft end for another- read a post that you could see one along side the seat but was supposed to be a bit*h to get at-. Not to be found! Forward on the hump(both sides) there is a black plastic trim piece with several retaining screws.
The backed carpet, unfortunately, is part of the support for the leather console and goes clean up to the inside top of the console.
The leather console then is formed and mounted in a variety of locations both under the dash & storage trays and under the pod to the point where I would be dis-assembling WAY TO MUCH of the interior for a so called simple task. Anyhow, since everything is out of the console now I can do some cleaning and function checking of the AC/Heater vac. lines, wiggle a few wires and scope out the servo/diaphrams. Why in the world Pcakes interior would be different than yours is beyond me, but, those moveable, side carpet pieces are BONDED to the back of the leather and the whole leather console piece must be removed as one unit. It does not appear to be other than stock and of high quality workmanship in both fit and finish.
Thanks again for the link, though.
John S. & Pattycakes

Thom1

John,

The rear screw on my passenger side carpeted center trim panel is about 4.75 inches forward of the trailing edge of the center console, 3.75 inches below the highest edge. You may need to push down on the seat cushion to see it. It may be hidden by carpet. The panel pulls down and back to release. It is in a groove about 1/8 inch deep on the upper edge.

Thom1

John,

I am not that good with electrical troubleshooting. But, my Dad once told me to measure something across the battery terminals to indicate a short by continuous indication of current with a voltmeter or ammeter. You can attach lines to the terminals, and to your meter to get you and the meter close to the fuse box. Then pull fuses and relays until drain stops. Then troubleshoot that circuit.

Randy V

The archives are alive and well.

You can look at all messages by changing the dropdown setting from the default 'Show Topics from last 45 days' to 'Show all Topics' You can set your preferences for # of days displayed through the 'my profile' function.

Also, use the search function here - it works swell. Searching on the word 'Blaupunkt' I came up with this thread of yours from July - perhaps the one you are seeking?:

Old Blaupunkt Thread