Rob Edwards

Just for fun, I pulled the driver's side cam cover last night (am taking it to the powdercoaters so they can match the intake finish to it- the PO had the valve covers (and only the valve covers) done 20K miles ago)

I have read about the GT cams a bit in the archives, but really don't have an idea of what badly worn lobes look like. The one that concerns me the most are the exhaust lobes on cylinder #6, there looks to be some pitting on both. The rest look ok to my eye, with jsut some uneven coloring to the metal.


BTW, with a valve cover off, should I have a layer of Saran wrap to keep dust out, or does it matter for a few days? Also, it looks like they used some red sealant at each corner of the valve cover gasket. Are the gaskets supposed to go on dry, or with RTV, or ????

Pics:

Chain tensioner:



Cylinder #5 exhaust:



Cylinder #7 intake:



Cylinder #6 exhaust #1:



Cylinder 6 exhaust #2, no flash:



Cylinder #6 and chain tensioner, another angle:

mark kibort

cams look fine. shift at higher rpms, change the oil it looks dirty, (not mobil 1 i hope!)
mk

SwayBar

Your cams are in good shape; don't worry about them!

It's always a good idea to throw a rag or something over an open engine.

Valve cover gaskets go on dry, with a dab of sealant in each corner as you noted, and torque them down to 7 ft lbs.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Looks like most GT cams pretty normal not ideal but no reason not to run them. Same when you pull a head and look at the cylinder bores they may not look great but most run just fine and would do so for a long, long time !

AO

Looks like mine did when I had my covers off back in February.

RyanPerrella

i like old towels, they keep crap out and they are heavy enough to stay put. shrink wrap wont stay expecially with the oil around

Your cams look good, no need to worry, mine looked similiar.

heinrich

Rob, may I recommend something that will breathe? Plastic will lock any vapours in and has a propensity to collect condensation. If you draped it over that would be OK.

dr bob

Condensation isn't an issue in Rob's neighborhood. We've had less than 2" of rain in the last year. Daytime humidity in the teens, cool nights bring it up to as high as 60% sometimes. One of the benefits of living in the coastal desert I guess.

Mark-- Climb up out of the Mobil 1 thing and give it a rest. Lots of us street drivers use M1 with no problems. We're not spinning the engines so fast in race-track corners that we suck foam up the oil intake, so using the slightly lighter and significantly more available M1 15W vs the Amsoil 20W isn't a problem for us. Focus your hate on the other racers. Remember that the factory saw fit to fill the cars with conventional Shell lubricants. I can only speculate that 20+ intervening years of oil development might allow that M1 15W-50 could just barely exceed the factory requirements.

Big Dave

Since the chain tensioners are exposed, you may want to check them for wear and consider replacing the pads if necessary.

Schocki

How about changing the cam chain tensioner nylon pads? There is a kit from Porsche available. Only the pressure side needs to be replaced.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...hain+tensioner

AO

Those pads look almost new to me.

Schocki

That's how a new pad looks. Why take chances? The part is cheap and he is already in there...

mark kibort

It was a joke! I know, i would only care about recommending amzoil if 280f oil temps were being reached on sustained 5000rpm engine speed over long periods of time!

the cams and pads look fine. button it up and drive it for another 100k miles
do change the oil though,it looks a little dirty!

MK

John Speake

Some of the tensioner pads are now NLA...

Schocki

The repair kit (944 105 949 00) is still available but expensive 73 Euros.

The upper nylon pad (928 105 509 01) is also still available for less than 10 Euros.

Shouldn't be a problem these are 944 parts...