GT cam lobe wear experts: Whaddya think?
#16
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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Originally Posted by Schocki
The repair kit (944 105 949 00) is still available but expensive 73 Euros.
The upper nylon pad (928 105 509 01) is also still available for less than 10 Euros.
Shouldn't be a problem these are 944 parts...
The upper nylon pad (928 105 509 01) is also still available for less than 10 Euros.
Shouldn't be a problem these are 944 parts...
#18
Archive Gatekeeper
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Thanks for the reassurance, guys. The scary thing about the oil is that it is a year old and has only 2100 miles on it. The PO had been running Kendall 20W50 dino that was pretty filthy when I bought the car. I changed it to Rotella 15W-40 dino oil, and will switch to Rotella 5W-40 synthetic when I'm done with this intake job.
I won't be messing with the chain tensioners, I've bitten off enough right now:
I only took the valve cover off so I could take it to the powdercoater to match colors for the intake. The quote for media blasting, outgassing, and powdercoating silver then clear was $85 for the intake and the side covers, theoertically it'll be done by Friday PM (This seems like a deal to me, we'll see whtether it really is....). This is at Orange County Plating in Orange, FWIW.
I won't be messing with the chain tensioners, I've bitten off enough right now:
I only took the valve cover off so I could take it to the powdercoater to match colors for the intake. The quote for media blasting, outgassing, and powdercoating silver then clear was $85 for the intake and the side covers, theoertically it'll be done by Friday PM (This seems like a deal to me, we'll see whtether it really is....). This is at Orange County Plating in Orange, FWIW.
#20
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Dang, Rob! If your engine bay starts looking like new, I'll have to get to work on mine soon.
When you visit the powdercoaters, as them what they need to do the intake and cam covers from mine. As close to the original Zermatt Silver as possible. The ideal would be "can't tell it isn't original" color and gloss. Otherwise they go into the trash can with Simple Green for a day, then a few runny coats of silver Krylon...
When you visit the powdercoaters, as them what they need to do the intake and cam covers from mine. As close to the original Zermatt Silver as possible. The ideal would be "can't tell it isn't original" color and gloss. Otherwise they go into the trash can with Simple Green for a day, then a few runny coats of silver Krylon...
#21
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Bob-
I took the intake to the powdercoaters this morning, along with the valve cover that had been done by the PO about 10K miles ago. The guy matched it up to a particular silver, then said he'd shoot that and then add clear over the top of that, and he was sure it would be a very good match to what's on the valve covers already. I'll get the exact name of the silver when I pick it up.
I also took the thermostat cover to be polished up, there's a bunch of mineral deposits on it that look crappy. Y'know, make it real smooth and shiny so the radiator hose will slip off under pressure....
I took the intake to the powdercoaters this morning, along with the valve cover that had been done by the PO about 10K miles ago. The guy matched it up to a particular silver, then said he'd shoot that and then add clear over the top of that, and he was sure it would be a very good match to what's on the valve covers already. I'll get the exact name of the silver when I pick it up.
I also took the thermostat cover to be polished up, there's a bunch of mineral deposits on it that look crappy. Y'know, make it real smooth and shiny so the radiator hose will slip off under pressure....
#22
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Rob, a good (great actualy) idea is to get a quart of RISLONE and dump it into the crank case. Run it up to your next oil change. If you intend on running the car only a couple of thousand miles a year, I am not sure if it is a good idea to use the stuff them. Anytime I have gotten a car (new to me) or have a car with high mileage, I dump a quart in and it does wonders in carefully cleaning the inners of the engine. Mixes well with the existing oil and drains out nicely. You can see the difference in the first change when you drain it out and the changes there after.
As long as you can't feel the wear on the cam lobes, I wouldn't sweat it.
Powder coating is great, clear coating is nice as well, but be prepared to have your clear coat stained by oil around passages such as hoses, breather and any unfixed leaks. My pieces were clear coated and you can eat breakfast off my engine, but that doesn't stop the sponge affect of the non baked clear sucking up the oil. It's not obvious as the stains are small and under other components, just a bit of a bummer.
Best of luck!
As long as you can't feel the wear on the cam lobes, I wouldn't sweat it.
Powder coating is great, clear coating is nice as well, but be prepared to have your clear coat stained by oil around passages such as hoses, breather and any unfixed leaks. My pieces were clear coated and you can eat breakfast off my engine, but that doesn't stop the sponge affect of the non baked clear sucking up the oil. It's not obvious as the stains are small and under other components, just a bit of a bummer.
Best of luck!
#24
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I wish I had replaced my pads when I had it open. How much is your time worth?
One of the big 2 recommended a thin application hi temp silicon grease on the gasket, just to help it settle/seal in as you tighten up the bolts. No sealer, it needs to slip/slide when you tighten.
One of the big 2 recommended a thin application hi temp silicon grease on the gasket, just to help it settle/seal in as you tighten up the bolts. No sealer, it needs to slip/slide when you tighten.
#25
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The rubber gasket needs some hight temp silicone only in the four corners. They are also installed like this by the factory.
Replacing the pads is easy when the cover is off. Just be sure that you follow the torque values of the WSM. Especially the hollow bolts requieres only minimal torque.
Replacing the pads is easy when the cover is off. Just be sure that you follow the torque values of the WSM. Especially the hollow bolts requieres only minimal torque.
#26
928 Engine Re-Re-Rebuild Specialist
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Originally Posted by Schocki
Replacing the pads is easy when the cover is off. Just be sure that you follow the torque values of the WSM. Especially the hollow bolts requieres only minimal torque.
#27
Electron Wrangler
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Rick Redpath (Redpathtribe) had wear on his GT cams - check with him for a comparison of how his looked - he sent them out to be resurfaced somehow...
Alan
Alan