EC928NC

TB/WP r&r seems to have gone well - no leaks as of yet.

I finally got my clutch system bled and have a good/firm pedal. I moved the car under its own power from its 4.5 months parking spot to the other side of the driveway. The car idles pretty smooth and I'm a happy camper.

The clutch pedal had always engaged pretty close to the floor and it's no different now, maybe a little closer. I'd say it starts to engage it the first 1/3-1/2 inch off the floor. I'm pretty large and so haven't contorted myself under the dash too far. Is there a clutch pedal rod adjustment that can be made to give me an inch or so of play before engagement? I know RTFM.... it's on my list.

Thanks in advance.

Mike Frye

Brad,

Congratulations!!!

I think you've answered your own question.

The only adjustment IIRC is for the spring tension to adjust the amount of resistance when you push the pedal. I don't think it changes the clutch engagement point.

EDIT: Just saw where you said you have a firm pedal and got it bled so I removed the part about air in the lines.

If the car goes in and out of gear OK (without grinding) the clutch is probably fine, but to check it:

There is a viewing hole in the bottom of the bell housing that will enable you to see how much clutch you've got left. You look in the little hole and the end of the release arm is there with the end of the clutch slave plunger.

I forget which end (front or back) would indicate that it's almost gone, but I'm going to say toward the front of the car. The manual will show the amount of travel you should expect and how to check it.

Probably too much information, but I've done one 928 clutch replacement and although it wasn't fun or easy it was successful.


Good Luck!!

hupp

It is possible to have air in the system and have a firm pedal. Most times the final bit of air becomes trapped in the slave. If this is the case, purge the slave by:
-remove slave from bell housing - leaving the hydraulic lines attached.
-place a tube on the bleed nipple and submerge one end in a jar of brake fluid.
-open the bleeder then push the slave rod all the way in.
-close bleeder and release slave rod.
-repeat system bleed.

I believe that it is inherant for the early double disc clutches to grab right off the floor so I would not be too concerned unless this is much different than before or if your clutch is dragging.

Mike Frye

My clutch applies an inch or two from the TOP of the pedal throw, well off the floor. YMMV.

EC928NC

Thanks Scott - Mike,

Of course I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I got all the bubbles out.

The clutch has always engaged right off the floor so it might be that Mike was on the money with my needing a new clutch soon. It doesn't drag, and I can still change gears smoothly.

I'm going to get it out to the Base and put it up on the lift this or next weekend. I can do a thorough inspection then.

hupp

A worn clutch will tend to have more travel since the clearances between the friction discs and PP/IP/FW are larger when released. Eventually the wear cannot be "soaked up" by the self adjusting IP and the clutch will slip. New clutch = tighter clearances due to thicker discs = quicker engagement.

Charley B

If your pedal is returning all the way out by itself and is then fully engaged (no grinding or creeping) at the floor, you're probably fine. If however, you can put your toe under the pedal and bring it any further out, you probably have a bleed or adjustment issue.

derporsche928

Brad,
If you've got all the air out, and the clutch master rod from the pedal is set properly, then you might also check that your clutch release arm has not popped out of its ball socket at the top / left of the bellhousing, and that your plastic bushing there is also okay....
When the release arm isn't pivoting there, or has a degraded or missing bushing, it can have the same effect as not giving full clutch action and the low engagement you're describing......
When the slave pushes the bottom of the release arm, it needs to pivot immediately on top to give good pressure plate to flywheel separation, thus easy to put in gear, and higher pedal engagement.....
Not to play devils advocate, but if your engagement is that close to the floor, then it also means you have poor pressure plate to flywheel separation..... It may shift okay and not drag or creep, but this seems suspect to me......
I don't have experience with the twin disc clutch, but if the clutch hydraulics and the clutch / pressure plate themselves are okay, then this may be the next likely suspect.....
(If there is indeed a problem....)
Just my 2 cents......
Best,

Louie928

Twin disk clutch engagement when the pedal is close to the floor is often the intermediate plate not being set so it's centered between the two disks.

EC928NC

WOW - all great info. Thanks for the input fellows. I have a lot to look at this weekend. I appreciate it.