subsonic

Well I'm trying to consider all angles of this project Euro that I've gotten myself into. I've always been a sucker for a poor needy automobile which caused me to move fast on the pur <img border="0" alt="[blabla]" title="" src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" /> chase of my 928. Now that some "newness" has worn off, I'm back to realizing that I already have too many projects and our twins are due in a few months also. So now I reach the point where I decide on how to proceed. Sell it or part it out?
The decision might be easier if I'd gotten it running, but the last time it did was on the 5mph stalling test drive. At least I verified its not the timing belts, so the engine itself seems to be fine. Spark is there, most likely a fuel issue.
I hate to be a quitter but the market for complete-but-not-running 928's seems to be quite weak. Even running-but-needing attention cars are cheap. Apparently the only expensive things are parts and labor. It comes down to money of course and the car doesn't have any sentimental value to me at this point.
Is there a market for this engine/auto transmission? I never did determine if its an "S" model or not. Maybe a Limited Slip Diff, nice BBS wheels/tires, and later model GTS rear bumper cover, spoiler and taillights. At this point, a complete 82 Euro with some body updates.
Somebody has to step up and wreck their car or part their car in order for the rest of the fleet to carry on! Should it be me???
Thanks folks,
Jim <img border="0" alt="[blabla]" title="" src="graemlins/a_smil17.gif" />

Old & New

Jim,

I guess it depends upon how much you have into it... if you can get out of it without losing too much by selling it whole, that would be the way to go.

You say you are short on time & money; it will take more of those to part it out.

It seems a shame to part out a complete car with a minor problem, and I'm sure there are plenty of folks out there looking for a nice project car!

Mark

Jim...

Post some pics and a realistic asking price - you may get some takers here!

subsonic

Thanks for the input guys. The reason I'm leaning towards parting is more money. For example, about a month ago a fellow was posting about a car for sale in Fayettville NC. The thing was about an 86 and the price was like $3500. This thing had been sitting for 6 mhts but would run. Other running ones on Ebay for $3000.
Mine doesn't run, needs paint, needs a little body work to the rear qtrs (probably got rear-ended before, thin layer of filler has cracks) the radiator tank is broken on the drivers side and who knows how old the timing belt is. The heater hoses have been cut going into the cowl area too.
The general consensus here was that the other cars in the $3000 range were not worth it. I don't think that I like where that puts me! I still love 928's of course, I'm just trying to pick a better situation for my efforts.

Chucker

subsonic, post the vin mumber (in the windshield drivers side) and we will tell you if it's an Euro model. And if it is an Euro I might have a buyer for it.

subsonic

Thanks, here it is: WPOZZZ92ZBS840790.
I went out this afternoon and jumped the fuel pump relay 87-30 and heard no pump running. The jumper wire did spark as if there was current draw so maybe the fuel pump is frozen up.

Mark

ZZZ = EURO!

WallyP

Pull the rear cover and check for 12 vdc with the jumper in the relay socket. If there is no voltage, just for grins try a jumper straight to the battery and see if it will run.

If there is voltage at the pump, but the pump doesn't run, try reversing the leads at the pump for an instant. Sometimes that will break it loose.

Tom. M

The Euro typically don't have the VIN in the windshield. Only on the passenger fender and that will be a Euro vin on all 928s. There may be a plaque in the front of the body..where the hood latch closes down...or if the Euro has been federalized there will be a VIN tag in the drivers door (possibly a US version VIN..or the euro vin and a statement of who did the conversion..

Another way to verify the engine is to look at the engine code on the front passenger side...near the thermostat housing....

Good luck,

Tom

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by Chucker:
<strong>subsonic, post the vin mumber (in the windshield drivers side) and we will tell you if it's an Euro model. And if it is an Euro I might have a buyer for it.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">

Chucker

subsonic, where did you find that number? Cause the ZZZ like Mark said is a EURO number. And like I said I may have a buyer for it. <img border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" title="" src="graemlins/drink.gif" />

Mark

subsonic...in your initial post - you say that this is an '82 EURO....based on the VIN - it is actually an '81.

The "ZBS" in the middle of the VIN is the designation for '81.

82 would be ZCS
83 - ZDS
etc...

my '85 is a "ZFS"

subsonic

The VIN was in the usual windshield area, as well as the other spots mentioned. It has the side marker lights on the fenders but not the rear light because the bumper cover has been changed to a newer style with GTS lettering and different taillights. I had already verified the Euro status but still wonder if its an "S" car or not. I may be on the verge of getting it running today. If not at least knowing that the fuel pump is bad. What I don't understand is the 2 fuel pump system. Why 2 and why would they both be bad? I will post the results of today as I progress. They could determine whether I part it or sell it or have renewed interest!
Thanks and please ck back later,
Jim

subsonic

Back again with an update. First though, Mark that is news about the '81 designation. Thanks for catching it. I only bought the car 2 mths ago through a newspaper ad that said it was an '82. The PO might have also been snowed because he bought it from out of state and had it shipped. Upon arrival he drove it home and parked it where it sat for a year. This might explain the bad fuel pump that I just verified! Yea, progress. I even disassembled the pump to autoposy it. The cause of death was varnish build up... I hope the injectors are ok though!

What do the experts have to say ?? Can someone explain the 2 fuel pump system ? Does my car also have this set up and 2 bad pumps ? Last question, there is a pair of wires hanging near the fuel pump. They aren't connected to each other or anything else. Any ideas about where they should go?
To Wally and you all, thank you for your generous troubleshooting assistance with this.

Chucker, I will let you know what I decide to do with the car at some point. I really intended on seeing if there was a market for the engine/tranny and other big ticket items if I were to part it out. Considering all options, even the worst case ones is the thing to do. Also, I bet better 928's than this have been parted! The sound of the car running may make it an earier decision for me though.
Thanks, Jim

John Struthers

sub,
Crap!
Lost it while browsing...
Again,
First I'm not sure that the early models had a two pump system - Wally, Dennis, jump in here if I'm wrong -.
You need to check the Greg Nichol's site.
Under electrical there was an old post by Wally for the fuel pump relay/fuse/pump electrical test.
( need a jumper and ohmeter )
Under engine there was a fairly extensive, and descriptive "how to" by Joe Raust.
Explanis; jacking, tank drop, pump removal, intake screen cleaning and a few things he learned on the way...gasket and line ordering.
there is also the pump buzz check, buzz at 1/2 tank, check valve removal and inspection etc... .
Lot of good stuff.
There is also a bunch of stuff in the Renn. Archives change the default from 45 days to a year or all and you should find some good stuff.
Like busting the fuel pump/fuel line nuts loose with out ruining something or going to the hospital for stitches -always over-torqued for some reason, be careful here as I consider this similar to breaking the cooler lines loose from the radiator. How you position yourself and your tools means a lot.
nichols.nu/tips.com

subsonic

Thanks John, the outlet line was very tight on the pump. Got the thing without incident though. A couple of things that I noticed while doing it were the condition of the "rubber boots" that cover the pump connections. They had turned into hard plastic which had cut into the power wires to the pump. Some new wire/heat shrink/ wire ends are in order there. The rubber line from the tank to the pump is also history. It feels like a heater hose that turned to mush. Full of stinky old gas too. Probably nothing new to you folks who have already done this service or dealt with a car that had been sitting. Thanks again,
Jim