Things have stabilized a bit, still heading out of town though, hopefully soon. I was given some information on jumping the relay. The relay seems to be poorly named, it also powers up the ignition system.

Based on the advice, I decided to make a "race car" style arrangement and replace the relay (for now) with a 35 amp toggle switch with a 30amp inline fuse with connected to the constant power (pin/slot #30) the fuel pump (pin/slot #87) and the ignition system (pin/slot #31b). I done all this with 14 gauge wire and correct size male spade connectors, it is all very sturdy.

I have #30 connected on the "hot" side of the switch, and 31b & 87 on the other connection. Just clarifying this. I used my test light, and #31b and 87 slots are working.

I tried starting it, fuel pump is running while turning it over, but clearly no spark. There are two pin/slots remaining (#31 which is 1/2 width of other 4 pins, and #15 with is normal size. I know "extra parts" left at the end when rebuilding something are not good, if these two pins/slots didn't serve a purpose, I doubt they'd be there.

Whatever I learned about wiring diagrams in high school shop class, was forgotten long ago, so I'm making educated guesses on the following. Fortunately, I kept my old fuel pump relay that I replaced some months ago, as it has a schematic on it, but the new one doesn't.

Known Slots:
#30 Constant Power
#87 Fuel Pump
#31b Ignition system

Uncertain Slots:
#15

On the schematic it shares a box with #31b, and looks like power flows from #81 and #30, when that circuit is closed. I'm thinking if I put a spade terminal in #15 and tie it into my toggle switch with the wires from #30,87, and 31B that would solve my ignition problem. Bearing in mind the voltage the ignition coil creates, I like to be sure about this.

#31

This is the 1/2 size pin/slot. On the schematic it is tied into the #30 and #87 circuit when it is closed (powered) and the same for the #15/31b circuit. It looks like it is wired in paralell, not in series. My best guess is that this connects to the central warning system, since it's only connected with completed/closed circuits with two independent connections.

Thanks everyone. I will try and find a schematic in my Manual and add it.

 

Why not swap a rarely used relay like the rear defroster to the fuel pump slot, that should get you running.

 

Mike,

I wish it was that easy, I neglected to say it is an '81 USA, our relays are a fortune, and not interchangeable with any other. My 944 had relays that I could go to any VW dealer and swap out.

 

Scott,

You bought some parts from us a few months ago over in Santa Monica! Call us at 310.450.2266 if you can and we will tell you how to bridge the relay so you can drive that sucker!

 

Chris,

I can't believe you saw this!! I've been trying to find your contact info like crazy. I will call you right now. Thank you for remembering and writing to me, you've made my day!!

 

Hey Scott,
I'm your BH neighbor, and I'm in SFV right now. Call me and see if I can be of assistance. (818)613-4097

 

Scott
I just checked to see if any other relays will work...bummer is none do...but #15 (intensive washer is close)..only 1 digit off the part number..but still not a match....the part you need is

928.615.113.01

Assuming the relay works the same as the standard fuel pump relay....can you just jumper it? That will get you to 928intl to get a new relay?

 

simply remove the cover from the relay and wedge the contact points together with a toothpick or some such thing then plug it in the pump should run ALL THE TIME, remove when you stop driving.

 

Scott,
Similar to Jim's idea if you can't rig the relay like that - buy 2 x 1/4" male quick disconnect crimp terminals and make up a 2" wire with one each end.

You can get these & wire at any auto parts store for a few bucks. They will probably help you to crimp them on - you only need needle nose pliers for a temp fix. Plug it into terminals 30 & 87 on the panel socket (Term ID prob shown on the relay). From the relay diagram you need the 2 terminals opposite each other on the outside edge that are perpendicular to each other. There is only one pair like this.

Plug the terminals jumper in - the pump will run all the time just as Jim said - unplug ASAP after you shutdown.

BTW - this is good for all years.. emergency temp fix only !

Alan

 

Scott--

Call me and we'll get something that will get you going, at least long enough to get loose. I need to look at your schematics to see how to wire a temporary relay that will do what Jim recommends. The original relay uses a tach signal to decide when to run. IIRC, there's also a 15 bus signal for that relay but it's in an odd position. If nothing else we can rig a jumper with a switch.

eight one eight four seven two eight eight six eight cell.

If nothing else, I can have Jim drop off the relay at the barbeque place on my CC, and we can go down there and pick it up in my car. Call quickly!!

 

Wow, them drugs sure must be powerfull to take out yer fuel pump relay!



Hope it all works out.

 

Bumping it back to today, changed the entire posting.