M. Requin

Best way to anneal copper is to heat it to red and then quench it in water. Makes it very malleable and doesn't burn holes in the floor.

RngTrtl

I believe this is wrong. Annealing is the heating of a metal and then cooling the metal slowly. The process makes the metal softer...If the metal is quenched while it is still hot, this makes the metal more brittle.

F451

Capt. Earl and I had the same problem when we swapped out the fuel pump and filter on my '88 right before I headed out across country in it.

We ended up going to the local auto parts store and buying a bunch of new crush washers. Of course when we installed it again, it still leaked!

Then just for the hell of it, we used two of the crush washers, and it did the trick. We didn't use an excessive amount of torque on it, but did tighten it down more then you would think is necesarry.

That was about 3 mths ago and no leaks since.

a4sfed928

This is correct, I worked with an old man who was some what of a metal master and he had a big bucket of sand or glass beads that he would stick red hot parts in to cool them very slowly in order to soften hard parts to machine them, then after machining them he would reharden them by cooling rapidly in various liquids.

DANdeMAN

Did that job a few weeks ago.

I used REAL crush washers, you know, the ones that are empty inside!?

They worked perfectly the first time I torqued them...

Troy Barnes

Truly a pain in the a$$!
I didn't have a real torch either so I just went to a Porsche mechanic here in Toronto Ontario, he couldn't find any of the copper ones in his shop so he gave me 3 alluminum ones and said "these will work just the same as the copper ones". By the looks of the cars he was carring for I believed him.

Went home tightend them up (not to tight!!) tightened till it stopped leaking while the car was running. My experience with over tightning the first time made me very cautious of doing it a second time round!

Haven't looked back...yet.

Good luck!

Troy
86.5 A/T

Bill Ball

Not true with copper. You can quench it. Not the greatest source, but here you go:

http://www.evergreengardenworks.com/copperwi.htm

IcemanG17

Update
I went and bought some new copper crush washers from the local auto parts store...but I do not like them...not the same quality at the washers I get from 928intl.....

Good news is the fuel pump runs nice and quiet..smooth too....& the new washers did not leak....the bad news is the I found the leak.....the damm fuel line from the pump to the filter....I guess my "tighten the hell outta it" theory doesn't work so well.....it leaks right at the seam....take a look at the pic....so new parts are on order AGAIN

Bill Ball

I thought mine was leaking there, but it proved to be a loose check valve. I had cranked on the endcap but the checkvalve itself needed more tightening.

G Man

Question for the experts out there. How do you back up the pump when tightening the fittings. I think it would be easy to snap off one of the little towers if I used one of them for leverage. I ended up using my 3/8 impact gun with the air pressure turned down way low. This was successful for me. What have others done?

Bill Ball

I ended up cutting away part of the claws on a medium sized slip joint plier so I could grip the center of the pump end while clearing the post.

Hawkeyes

First suggestion is don't try to do it while on your back under the car! Take the fuel filter and fuel pump out as a unit, then take them apart. There is a 'cradle' that holds them both suspended on rubber bushings. Four 10mm (what else?) nuts, the electrical connections to the pump and the rubber hose to the in-tank pump must be disconnected, then the unit will just drop into your hand & you can get it to the bench & a vise for proper disassembly.

Pad your vise jaws with cloth or neoprene/rubber, & use it to hold the pump. IIRC, the nuts take a 19mm or 17mm (both?) wrench. Use an open end wrench on the inner nut/fitting & take the outer banjo off with a socket and breaker. I didn't have to take the inner fitting off the old pump as my new (used) pump came with inner fitting in place. Not certain if a brand new pump does.

When installing the banjo fitting on the new pump, use the vise to (gently) hold the pipe and pump. I used a piece of wood on either side of the pipe to secure it when the jaws were closed, then clamped the vise jaws across the seam at top of pump.

Hawkeyes

IcemanG17

The WSM torque spec for both the check valve (17mm) and nut that holds it all together (19mm) are both 14ftlbs......I used the highly accurate "I'll hold it in my hands why you crank on it" techinque.....which wouldn't click the torque wrench which only goes down to 20ftlbs....so its probably pretty close....

I am confident it is leaking at that seam because I saw bubble spraying out of it for quite a while after the pump stopped running, since that is where the peak pressure is held....the good part is the other copper washers were holding just fiine and not leaking.....I thought about replacing that part anyway since the end that goes into the fuel filter is kinda chewed up from the PITA we had removing it a couple months ago...now I'm really kicking myself for not ordering it!

Hawkeyes
Be very careful with the outer housing of the pump....I heard that if you put too much pressure on the outside of the pump you will crack the housing, causing a massive leak....which would really suck on a brand new pump!

SharkSkin

I took a similar approach with mine, though it's a different setup. The banjo on the pump goes to a rubber line straight to the secondary pump. I used a somewhat large slipjoint plier, with a piece of leather wrapped around the banjo and using the claw area. I didn't have to tighten it much though -- spec was 14 ft/lb and the pliers were plenty to hang onto it with.

Bill Ball

Argh. When's the new line going in? I'm here Sunday if you want to get the bellypan.