Bill Ball

Measuring in the rear is easy. See first pic below (ruler indicates about 163mm). Measuring the front is a bit difficult on the ground as it is up between the walls of the lower A-arm rear bracket (Black arrow in the second picture). However, I found that the lower edge of the wall (Red arrow in second picture) is 10mm lower than the factory spot. So, measure there and add 10mm. I lay the same ruler against the backside of that bracket. This can be reached from behind the front tire while lying on the ground, but you'll need a flashlight to see anything.

Bill Ball

In terms of the wrench - a Motion Pro shock adjuster for motorcycles and ATV's will work, but it would be better if it had a longer handles and was padded.
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-SHO.../dp/B000GZP270

I took my Norton exhaust nut spanner and ground its radius out a bit to fit the shock, and it is ideal. What it looked like before I changed the radius:

jeff spahn

I bought mine at Lowes in the plumbing department. Like $8. Had a shorter handle than the motorcycle one but fits in tight places well.
Just wear gloves when using the short one cause it dents your hand pretty bad

auzivision

Thanks for the tips... just found this site:

http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/technic...8/MyTip868.htm

Troy, who works at a Harley Dealer here in town, is bringing one home tonight... so I should be good.

dr bob

If ever there was a wrenching rule that applies perfectly, the one about "always pull on the wrench handle, never push!" applies to the spanner on the shock/spring adjusting nuts. There's also a serious opportunity for someone to water-jet a steel or aluminum spanner out of 3/8" stock, made with at least a 12"-long handle. The short handled one is good for adjusting the fronts with the car settled. Rears are a chore to turn with weight on them. Makes measuring/adjusting/measuring a very iterative process at best.

Optimator

I just did an alignment this weekend, and somehow missed this thread. Adjusting front or rear ride height with the car on the ground was no problem. I'm sure it helped that the adjusters and perches are new. I applied anti-seize to the adjuster threads and a moly disulfide grease to the sliding surfaces between the nut and the spring perch. With the rear adjusters the wrench can slip off rather easily, so be careful. I had good luck with this wrench:

http://www.tein.com/products/wrench.html

The best part is the 1/2" square drive hole, so that you can attach an appropriate length breaker bar or ratchet for leverage. Very nice quality, and super cheap - you get two wrenches for $25!

FredR

Got my wrench from 928 Specialists along with adjustment tool for internal koni's- both work fine.

WRT the thread, I am always quite surprised to see this topic coming up as often as it does- I have a simple mantra -whatever you do keep the front/rear differential constant and for a street car do not let it go too low=- numbers around 160mm sound fine if you have strong springs.

The problem I found with my current GTS chassis is that on the rear the min camber setting I can get is 1.5 degrees which I presume is because I have the rear sitting relatively low [but not as low as Mark's race car]. To date no idea why the camber is so but then I am quite happy with my set up. Maybe the adjusters are the wrong way round? Do not think anything is bent.

I do not like what I call "the sniffer dog *** in the air" attitude with the nose on the ground like a bloodhound.

My experience is that when the rear camber is anything over 1.5 degrees you lose traction big time and onset of uneven wear is quite rapid. I set rear toe mid range to help get traction driving out of the bends.

Regards

Fred R